Freightrain

The Blue superliner(cummins powered) is still blue as far as I know. Last story I heard about it a few years back was after an oil change was done somewhere, the drain plug was loose? Lost oil, lost oil pressure, etc. I think they were able to resolve it without too much fuss. He has not been real active in the local chapter anymore(I'm not either, I get to meetings when I can), and haven't spoken to him in a couple years. I do now recall the CL accident. I'd forgotten about that story. The current CL was from the local concrete plant, the name escapes me right now. Yes, he has/had a std R model, green of course. When he first finished the V8 superliner(I think it came from concrete plant also?), he kept telling me to come up and take it for a drive. This was the only time I got the chance. I pulled it out of the IX center after the Piston Power show back in 2015: His green B model is called "Gravy Train". It has a 237 in it, and he talked of wanting to put a 673 back in it. Years back I had thoughts of working on a trade for my 673. Did I mention he always wore a green sweatshirt? Lol! Stan is pure Mack.

Stan Leman has one, of course it's green! It has a bunk on it. I have a picture of it along with his V8 Superliner and B model at Lakeside Sand and Gravel show.

We're suppose to get dumped on this weekend too. Ugh. I dropped the doors off at my friend's place to start on. I'll get the rest of the little stuff over next week. Thanks again.

Those two cars I spend four years collectively getting them both completed. I cringe at the though of working on any others.

I actually enjoyed it. I liked playing with my 100 and 1 Electronic kits from Radio Shack back in the 70's. It's fun to watch it all come together. Though this was kinda tough as trying to follow the wiring blueprint was tough as I'm not a real engineer or electrician so I have to really spend time figuring out what they need. Like I say, "One wire at a time". Pretty soon it's all done. I did this conversion in 4 wks all by myself. Total strip and rebuild/rewire. I was pretty impressed, still am. The older machine is a bit more finicky, but that is just because it's plum wore out(lead screws/bushings). The electrical side is fine. I'm glutton for punishment. The two Willys I worked on: Red car got a/c installed so I had to chop up the original harness to get the dash out: It's all back together, with working a/c. Less A LOT of extra connections and terminal strips!! The orange car was a new build, I built the complete harness and all the electronic crap he wanted in the car.

One of the girls in the office snapped this as I was working on our CNC mill: I completed a full 4 axis retrofit on it last spring. Total rebuild. The old 1980's controls were failing in a hard way. I emptied that large cabinet, removed all motors/wiring and started all new. This was the second one I did. Old controls(filled to the brim) New controls....looks kinda sparce...... (though this wasn't totally wired yet, but close) Our smaller mill was all mechanical and I did a complete conversion to CNC. Did mention.........this is not my job actually. I'm just the only sucker that knows how to do stuff like this so I get volunteered...A LOT!!

I have very large machine shop at my disposal for the last 32 yrs of my employment, so making anything is not an issue. Sometimes I cant find the time to do it?? I've done my own machine work on the engine block for the race car. I even redrilled my flywheel for the 237: This is the G/L horizontal mill with 4'x8' table.

You need the piece that mounts in the dash? It's just a sheetmetal tab that the door latch catches on.

I can handle that also.

Nice find!!! I've got a soft spot for older Binders. Friend ran a 4070B Eagle for his last truck. His was 400/13 spd also, but had 4.10's. I met a fellow at York National convention, parked next to me with a super nice, low mileage 4070B. He got it pretty cheap at an auction from a dealership? I forget the whole story now. It was spotless clean frame and inside too. Last name was Richardson?

Poly Urethane. Same as typical bushings, but in raw stock. I'll part it and turn the shoulders I need.

Well, my material showed up. Now to get some spare time to widdle it down to useable pieces.

My guess is cable operated shifters. With age I'm sure they get stiff and sloppy. I'm betting around town they hardy got into 2nd gear? Looks like the clutch is cable also, but I'm thinking I've seen many with air clutch. I'm guessing it took plenty of finesse to drive it smoothly. I grew up with early GMC buses, most being automatics. Similar to this design:

Front lights are only on with parking lights, they turn off with headlights. Turn signals on fender were typically blink only, not running. Though you can make them work how every you want.

My door seals(what's left) were just like 1/2" square foam strip stuck in the groove. No glue. I'll be shopping around. Thanks for all the input guys.

Paul, yes the drivers handle droops a touch. The passenger not so bad. I played/replaced with the springs years back, but needs attention again. Once I get the door parts off the panel I'll look at them again. If the springs you have are the correct ones, I'll use them. Not sure what I did back when? I'm going to poke around and see what I can find for window felts/etc. I called my buddy, going to drop the parts off this week and have him get started. Once Rob gets me the window stop plate I can have things painted. I seem to have lost the left over pint of paint I had from painting my heater box 17 yrs ago. I had a factory painted panel scanned and matched. I guess I'll give my buddy the heater cover and let him have it rescanned to match it. I'll check into the power window kit this week. I know Speedway Motors offered a handle switch that operates the window so you don't have the switch boxes mounted to the outside. It uses the regular window crank so it doesn't look like power windows. I like the idea. I think I will also look at welding a piece of tubing to the hinges to run the wires safely into the dash area so there are no exposed wires. Jim, ya I have a friend that can also just look from the outside of the stall. Lol! I feel fortunate enough to at least have it inside. Though it can be a PITA to work on. Another friend is building a 48x60 this spring so come next winter if I want to do something to it I can have elbow room!!

What did everyone use for felts and whiskers? Generic stuff? R model? Watts used to carry it but have not researched it yet. I literally tore into this yesterday afternoon on a whim.

I saw those kinds of kits but didn't think they would fit. Have a part number?

Lol!

Rob, yes.

Ed,. Ya, I drive my a lot and when it's cool the drafts coming in around doors can be annoying. Summer not so bad when the a/c is blowing ice at you! I don't mind slamming them if they fit tight. Robert, likely not change the glass configuration. Unlike many, I like my vent windows! Either allowing a good blast of air or diverting wind buffeting when window is down. I would like to convert to electric windows. It's a tight fit, I've mocked up a Ford window motor. Hard/impossible to get window assy in the door with that motor.

Lots of warehouses I see during my work I see photo eye controlled LED lamps. They turn on as you enter the area and then turn off after you leave. Pretty cool.

Well, after buying these like 17 yrs ago, I finally am going to put them on my truck. I was originally hoping to find a better cab and paint it all at once but that never transpired. So, I dug the doors out and starting to hang them. I got the drivers side fitting up and aligned pretty well. Latches nicely, though real fitment is not something you can do to the doors on these trucks. Unless I guess I want to really cut and paste things to make it all museum quality? Not likely. There is nothing straight or even about the doors or cab openings. All the keen eyed people will notice the lack of working room. Ya, you got to be a skinny ass to work around the truck in the stall. I can just squeak between the bunk and wall. Once I know both fit I'll be stripping the interior panel so I can give everything to a buddy for paint. I'll have him use the same white he used on the bunk and I have a small pint of the green I used on the heater box 17 yrs ago. It's a Volvo color if I recall? It's on the can, he can use it to get more. My original doors are pretty beat, rusty, cracked. I have new side glass, though my vent windows are still nice along with the vent rubbers. I just need to get new channel felt, window fuzzies and the door seal foams. In all, shouldn't be too hateful of a project to tackle. One thing: Does anyone have the window stop that fits in the small hole in the bottom of the door? I've been missing the one for my passenger door. Would like to have one to get painted with everything else. Let me know what you have.

Nice find! If you download too many pictures to BMT, you run out of space. It's best to use an offsite hosting service and link the pictures here. I use Postimage.org. It's free, unlike Photobucket that wanted to rape everyone a year ago.

Nice. Did the same with my truck. I mounted the 3/4" LED under the lip of the bunk, so they are invisible during the day, but light up and shine down on the road at night. I did similar under cab, I made small brackets and riveted them to the inside of the rocker so only the edge of the light hangs down and it glows on the tanks. I then put them up each side of the bunk in the back. I got the SS covers for them to kinda cover up the black rubber grommet. I got the clear lens also so not as noticeable during the day. You can get those 3/4" LED's cheap from Amazon. They keep offering bigger quantities for cheap. If I can't make the truck shiny, I might as well light it up at night?? You know the old Beach Boys song..."She's my no go show boat".........