Freightrain

Yup, mine goes instant black after an oil change. Mine has about 15# idle hot, 50#+ hot running down the road at speed.

Well, wonder if someone did something with it since I saw it? I recall it being "shiny" but the paint wasn't much more then a 50ft'r job.

Hmmmmm, wonder what that vibration is? I run Rotella 15w40 in mine. I've never added any additives, even though likely mine did alot of idling previous to my owning it. I've had the valve covers off and it's a bit dirty, but I don't consider it terrible for a 50yr old diesel. Wonder if it's a miss more then a mechanical vibration? Maybe something got loose in the injection pump from the MMO?

How about swapping pumps and see if the ol 673 runs okay then? Or find a pump that is a known good one and try it. Might be simpler to fix then R&R the whole thing. Just a thought.

My single axle tractor is just under 12K, so add an axle and maybe double frame?

Adjust them the wrong way?? Oh, never done that LOL!! Back after I got the truck and put new slacks on it...I did that and WWooooahhhh it don't stop for squat when it's turned all the way out! Only had one wheel that was right and it don't stop 26K lbs very easy. Learned a very good lesson that day........always watch the cam as it turns to make sure you don't unwind it. Then I still give it a yank to check the free play. Mine has the spring loaded lock ring that you have to depress with 9/16" socket to adjust.

Ya, familiar with it. Heard about it earlier this summer, so as we took a bike ride that way one Sunday we stopped and looked at it. Pretty rough, but probably savable. Never did get a number, likely owned by the drilling company behind it? If I recall, it had a normally aspirated 673 with a quadbox. Don't recall the gear ratio out back? something like hi 5's or lo 6's.

Sorry to hear you found a bad apple in the crowd. Some people AREN'T personable, no matter what hobby. I've found that in drag racing(talk about competition LOL! ), though most are okay, some don't want to "talk". I always smile or nod and go on my way. Some people take alot of prodding to open up and be friendly. See that alot too. They aren't mean, just "shy".

Nope, not that I don't do pretrips, but no records of them. I'm anal about walk arounds and making sure stuff is good, because I don't want problems on the road.

LOL! I was going to make a statement about "bleeding" the filter, but figured you wouldn't do what ya did LOL!!! I've left the plug "loose" and then tightened when it seeped. I KNEW I wouldn't get the motor shut off in time if I left the plug out! 60psi sure does make a mess even for second. The motor is all original for what I know. It's got 50 yrs of oil leaks, including the seeping head gaskets(I think-it's always damp). Runs likes a champ though.

Jim...that thing is turning out AWESOME!! I can't wait to see it in person!!!!

I used to put 3 gal in the pan and 3 gal in the filter housing and start it. I didn't used to bleed the filter, but started to the last couple years. Don't think it has made much difference? Mine has always been slow to build pressure after sitting for week or so. My oil dipstick isn't original? It's been changed/marked and not really sure where "full" is? I was told 6 gal, so that is what I put in. Then I heard 7 gal, so I added one this year. There is a check valve below the filter and I pulled it, cleaned it and still no difference. I know it's leaking down, but it doesn't seem to affect anything but start up. It runs 55-60 psi down the road, so I don't worry much about it.

Dash is looking great. Not out of place at all. My truck needs fuel tank work and would LOVE to make a set of alum diamond plate tanks! That would look COOL!! Oh well, maybe someday.

Well maybe they put that on to keep all the slobber oil out of the system? How much oil does your air tank get? Mine used to fill a mug every trip out. I had the a/c rebuilt and now it's dry as a bone. That is why I pulled my shutterstat and controls apart to clean the sludge out. As you can see, it will work without that gizmo, but depends on the condition of your air compressor.

Got some stuff laying around, sure would like to see it go to use. Hard part is getting it to you. Have to ask Jim how long a drive it is to get down here. I only have one question about the Jeep seats: Is there air ride under there? Nothing? Hope the springs are cut down on the truck or it might get a bit bouncy. The Torsion seat does take the jar out of the ride. I'd love to have something a big more "cushy" to sit on, but that's down the road.

Looks pretty good Glenn. You'd be surprised what a few days of washing and cleaning will do for the ol dawg. I've got a nice muffler/pipe with guard sitting in the back to take care of the straight pipe for ya! I ran it one summer, the the twins on mine and it's been sitting there since. I've got some Bostom T bar seat parts sitting here too. I have a couple nice passenger seats too! Bet yours still has the series/parrallel switch under the passenger seat? I have my cover for it, really nice too, as I dont need it anymore. That front spring will need fixed up before it gets on the road. I have my drivers side getting separated like yours, but it hasn't blow the U bolts, yet.

Well, glad to see you made it safe/sound, even with the slight problem. Like I say...."coulda been alot worse". I could see it now.......a whole fleet of trucks lined up in my driveway...waiting to stay at the "Freightrain Inn Express".

Sorry to hear about all the BS. That is the catch with trying to use a "newer" truck, as it falls under all that crap. I had "truck" plates on mine the first year I had it, including IFTA, but quickly ditched it all for Historical tags to eliminate the hassles. Eight years so far with only ONE stop/question by scalemaster. I don't even stop at scales now since they changed the signs to "commercial trucks only", instead of "all trucks". Start looking for "pre 84" truck and try again.

Glad to hear you got that all straightened out. Get that "P" fixed so it doesn't create headaches later on.

Ok, so you have a light and a buzzer. The buzzer is staying on all the time, thought the light goes out? Well, sounds like the wire going to the buzzer is shorted? I'm not familiar with how it's wired, but if the pressure switch "GROUNDS" the buzzer, then likely the wiring going to the buzzer is grounded inbetween the switch and buzzer, thus leaving the buzzer on all the time. It's likely a simple fix overall, but you need to trace the wiring. Quick schematic to show you what I mean: 12v+(bat).................(buzzer).....................(switch).................battery - If the buzzer is grounded(battery -) before the switch, then it will stay on no matter what.

I'm curious to what the "indicator" is? Are you talking a "wig wag", or "low air flag"? That comes down to warn of low air? That could lose air if the diaphram is bad. It's just a rubber disc inside, and tend to get old and brittle. The pressure switch works a light on the dash, or a buzzer(that you say works). I'm thinking that by your description that it all works fine.

Well, the g/f ordered a set and got them okay. Apparently they only ship on like one day a week, so you might have to wait for the next shipping day? A month is a bit long, but they send them USPS, so might be lost somewhere too. DVD quality was great, packaging great. Who knows?

While in reply box, there is a "attach this file" box towards the bottom that will add pics. I use Photobucket and works fine that way.

Serial number...........look in the passenger front fenderwell, behind the tire, above the rear spring hanger.