Freightrain

Power steering was optional back in the B days. There are trucks out there with it. You can retro fit something too, but it is not always just a bolt on. The non turbo 673(180 hp) will get the job done, but won't be fast. The 237 isn't a race horse either, but a bit more power. The 5spd behind a 237 will be easier to drive.

I would guess. It takes air input and moves a rheostat to apply electric brakes. I've had my Warner for 10+ yrs without issue.

No reason it can't do the task, as long as you have a decent truck to start with, mechanical wise. Who's going to drive it? Can they handle two sticks? A quad box would give you some nice slow moving gears, but if you only plan on street driving a duplex/triplex would work. I suppose it depends on how fast it is geared out back. Not sure about the DOT, but can't see if it is not up to par per 1960's legislation, it won't pass.

I have a Warner. White box, red knob on the front for manual activation. Hooked it into the treadle valve and works great. I tried a "car" type pendulum, but with a very bumpy road it was BAD. The newer electronic versions are just as bad. They just ramp up to full power no matter what you want. That sucks too especially going down a long hill. Keep having to get on/off the brakes as the trailer kept dragging hard after a few seconds. http://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Controller/Warner/1300-80.html?feed=npn&gclid=CJPFwfiytrUCFYxDMgod-g0A6g

Nope, 85 is all she has, all sticks in the biggest holes I can find LOL!!! I usually run the rear aux in direct, which gets me 72, which I run 65-68 or so for the most part. Man, I wish I had some more Umph! I did turn the screw up on my pump. It will put a nice steady haze out the pipes.

Happy B day Rowdy! Hope it's a good one.

It does take alot of muster(all 187 hp) to get to 75 pulling the trailer, but on level ground it will do it. I just pat the side of my seat and yell "Come on Muttly, GO!!" I bobtailed it to 80 mph once, but ran outta road(um, well, came to a hill). Still had a couple hundred rpm to go.

Surely not a powerhouse, but I did have fun last summer running across Rt 70 to a race in Columbus. I was trying to get around some slower moving traffic and was out in the left lane and my exit was sneaking up on me. I saw some large cars running up ahead..............so I slipped the rear box into OD and just held it to the floor. I rolled up and past them boys about 75 mph and was still making steam LOL!! It has enough gear for 85, but only downhill when pulling a trailer. I got thumbs up from the drivers and the radio was just chatter'n away. The girlfriend was just shaking her head. I don't think they ever saw a B model go that fast? I made my exit.

Looks overall pretty solid. The back of the cab isn't all rotted off and patched up! The three bolts are still there. That is one mean look'n mutha with those plow brackets!! Definite keeper.

When my B boxes were bad, I got some 14ga(or 12?) and had the three sides bend up to allow welding it to the sidewalls of exising box. Cheap fix, will NEVER rust out in my lifetime. I only run one box now(2 batteries), as it starts fine with two. The first 4 batteries lasted 10yrs, but too costly to replace so I only got 2.

Great looking trucks!!

Got some wires hooked up wrong? Time to investigate and make sure nothing is crossed up.

I put a 4" Dynomax "race" muffler(ie: glass pack) on my B. Go figure...race muffler for a race truck pulling a race trailer with a race car in it. Hmmmm, coincedence?? I think NOT!! I originally had a 5" straight pipe, but it droned sooooooooooooooooooooo bad that it gave me a headache within minutes of entering the highway. The 4" pipes are much more forgiving and not such a deep resonance. The muff just takes the rap out of it. Stil hear it coming though. If I could find someone to actually drive it, I'd like to hear it personally.

Weather says it's gunno bypass most of us OH, PA, then come together and whack the coast and upper NE area. MIght get some slop, but nothing like they are forecasting for them.

Funny how insurance companies NEVER loose.

Something like this: Napa shows them: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=LIT3121_0218601803

Typical pogo stick has a threaded rod sticking out the bottom. Stick it through a hole and bolt it down. I'm familiar with the typical model version, like posted above that comes with bracket to cross the frame. The stick you buy for real, doesn't come with that. They just bolt to whatever you want. Not sure the real factory location of a Superliner. Have to ask Superdog. Likely just an "L" bracket off a crossmember.

I can bobtail and get 9-10 mpg. With trailer and running hard it gets 8 mpg, as I run it 65+ on the highway(about 1800 rpm). I have 4.10 gears and triplex. I have a brownie box too, but don't run it in OD very often(usually in Direct) so it doesnt account in the fuel mileage equation. Truck is 13K, the trailer is 14K lbs.

Typical tractor is around 15K, so add the weight of the steel bed? 8-10K and you're at 25K easy. And that is likely a bit on the low side, but close guesstimate. Not sure how you are going to get 26ft of truck onto a 20ft trailer? Leave the rear tandems hang off the back? You'll have a hard time getting on the trailer and away from the ramps with it hanging off the back. I bet the tail end is a touch heavier then the front, maybe not by much.

I run the wheels off my 673P. In the 10 yrs, only popped two head bolts(easy fixes), drove it home each time. They are sturdy ol engines. Mines all original, so who knows the actual mileage? Geared right, it will run along at 65-70 mph and get 8-9 mpg easy if you aren't heavy. That lil binder motor will be running hard to keep up, they just don't make the torque. I'd LOVE to have a 250 motor in my truck. She'd be cruis'n in high cotton then!

If it's toed out, it will fight going at speed(wobble like hell) and wear the insides of the tire. Check run out of each tire. I got mine real good(about less then 1/8" wobble), then marked the worst spot. Rotated that to bottom on each side. Then I stretched tape measure across and checked toe in. That way you weren't measuring part of the "wobble" of the wheel. Basically setting them "in the middle", or splitting the difference. Mine runs real nice now at 60mph, where it used to shake you to death. Once you got above 65mph, it would smooth out again. Now it hardly moves the wheel.

Cool pics. I remember the blizzard, got Ohio pretty good. I recall digging tunnels through the snow all over the back yard. Ahhhh long time ago.........

Check toe in. My B model was like that. Got crazy stupid shake, found out it was toed out some(plus bad tie rod ends). New ends helped some, but didn't settle down til I rechecked toe in. Once I got 1/8" or so toe in, it smoothed out. How did you check ends? I tried using my hands and thought they were good. Once I jacked with them with a pry bar I realized they were not good.

Nice!! My g/f forbids ANY photos being taken at any time. Ugh. Farthest I've gotten is having her start it, with me assiting from the tank step!! She drove my ol '67 pickup(4spd) around the mall parking lot ONCE. She did get the hang of taking off, just couldn't get her to shift to second gear. She would darn near come to stop, then try to take off again!! DOH!! She rambles about trying to stay awake at night when we drive home from the races "incase something happens". Like what? and what is she going to be able to do about it?? Ya, nuthin. I just point to the bunk and tell her to lie down. She wakes when I pull in the driveway........ My last name isn't bad: Brains. It's just the first name that is a killer: Shitfer

Nothing better then a perfect factory resto on a B or R. Very cool! BUT........there again the trucks with O/O type upgrades are nice. Just a touch of class. There again it is all in the owners personality. To each their own and I don't care what someome thinks of my truck. They arent paying the bills. Like I tell others....."buy it from me and do as you like".