BC Mack

Vlad that system pressure is too high... you can adjust the govenor pressure setting... under the cap is a set screw and locknut, try a small adjustment, pump down the air and build it up again. setting should cut out no higher than 125psi, the cut-in pressure is usually 25psi lower if your D2 governor is working correctly. the "pffff" you hear may be the safety valve and not the dryer. BC Mack

on our transit buses, we fit a 150psi to the ping tank, and on the tu-flo 750 we have a 250psi relief valve... no-one knows why both but if the 150 fails to work you don't blow the head off the compressor..!! BC Mack

not familiar with your engine... but.... could it be fitted with an "alarmstat', very common on Detroits (peanut gallery add comments here). looks like a taller water temp sender with one wire. if you find it, just ground the wire when engine is running, if engine has electric shutdown it activates the solenoid, otherwise it would link the electric signal to an air operated piston pushing the injection pump stop lever. 180 sounds very low if that is what is happening here... usually set for 230 ish.... as said, not familiar with your engine.. just putting this info out there for you... just sound too familiar to me from DD experiance. BC Mack

we used them at work, after a while we were stretching the fine thread screw so a machinist came up the a method of attaching a hydraulic ram to the frame operated by a foot air valve... sort of like having a hyd press hanging in mid air...easy!!!!! we do them assembly line style in one shop overhauling complete drivelines, 10-15 at a time, has cut the time and effort to nothing, sure beats sledge hammers.. BC Mack

So... how many straps for this load??? BC Mack

No kidding also took a pic of the front end but there was no way I could get it all into one shot... impressed me for a locally made and operated rig, and they have two of them. BC Mack

This is a growing trade show for this region and I was impressed how the show area and booths were full of reputable vendors and good displays. Yes, we had the Bollywood dancers again, but they put them in a tent outside this time... Of interest to us were two trucks from Nanaimo Mack, B61 and E9 Superliner with a Can-Am sleeper... part of the show-shine with blinged up PBlts... I won't bore you with photos of modern trucks as I didn't take any photos of them... but... our trailer manufacturing industry here is growing fast with energy resource demand from Alberta, evidently our labour costs are lower than Alberta.. yeh, I know, I feel it in my paycheck..LOL a few photos added for the literal challenged... BC Mack

Thunderdog... a question is that fuel tank original to the truck? BC Mack

I think he bought that in the UK about 5? years ago..... 265hp Rolls Eagle IIRC remember them well and avoided them when I could, non tilt cab with access through the swing rad, the ride was as rough as a horse and cart on a cobbled road.... some 'adventurous' guys even took them all the way to the Middle East and back in the 70's... and then had to rebuild them before the next trip. Crusader wreckers are very common as the Brit army demobbed many in the late 80's.... oh, and the yellow one is considered to be a delux international sleeper cab..!!!! BC Mack

per my DD 50/60 parts book there is a selection of two different isolator/spacer pairs, yet, the bolt has only one length.. 65mm 23505026/23505027 or 23517242/23517243 never seen your issue before so go back to your supplier or oem and compare from their records as there is no dimensional info or close ups of the parts BC Mack

Vlad... what 85snowdog said... and check the pivot pin on the pedal, you should be able to rotate the roller freely. very common for these parts to seize after being parked in a damp climate, I doubt if the piston in the footvalve is sticking but it is possible.. BC Mack

and it's an MH, to boot...!!!!! photo credit.. http://buzzybeeforum.nl/viewtopic.php?f=423&t=20834&sid=9fa9972e5f8960600edfc8aa7e52a1d1&start=90 BC Mack

I had a read of the T2130/80 manual.. end of the shaft has a taper roller bearing and is shimmed for backlash under the cover during assembly.. while it says that it is preferred to do the set-up vertically it doesn't forbid horizontal. there are three bolts and two dowels for alignment and an o-ring, I assume there is enough support within the gears that there is no significant drop if you remove the cover.. but, how much wiggle room gets lost and how easy is the end cap going to come off? if you loose alignment you may be able to get at the shaft by removing the top cover.. it may be a simple job or one that goes downhill fast if it was me... I'd first try to drill it for an easy-out before disturbing the shim set-up... bolt torque is 40-50ft/lb.... plan B would then be cap removal BC Mack

chrome spray bomb..!! LOL BC Mack

ws721 in no way am I an expert... and I didn't sleep at a certain hotel chain last night.... but as I have a T2180 in my MH maybe I can help you help yourself... from what you have asked I am understanding you want to know if your existing linkage will bolt directly to the "main case shift cover" (that's what they call it the the manual).. correct? if I'm right, you need to know if the 4 bolts pattern matches and if the depth/swing of the lever runs correctly through the gate of the shift rails/forks. have attached pic of my tranny top and can measure up for you... the sliding portion of the linkage is governed by other limiters in my linkage but I can measure total stroke... am I on the right track? is your truck linkage similar 'cos I'm way out of date repairing Macks other than mine. maybe a pic would help us... you know the rules..LOL BC Mack

damage to left side due to counterweight being removed??... sorry, couldn't resist BC Mack

OK... I'll give that a try... it's on "the list".... I'll take the tension off the clutch to get a gap for it to flow into.... I assume the "oil" burns off and there won't be any slipping problems? thanks BC Mack

I have one of the few remaining "seated" coaches, about 25 still exist, that's all... getting a full restoration, started it in 2007 so it takes far more time than a truck due to the furnishings. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4G6s95Et6IY if sometime you can locate the serial number on the scrapper (no U jokes please) we have a 'keeper of the records' who likes to know what still exists... about 200 still around of 1001 built mostly rv's or junk shells... pm me for location of stamping... BC Mack

Vlad coming from the UK I still can't understand why so few trucks carry a spare... maybe the steering wheel holders only know how to use a cellphone..!!! as a hobby truck and being able to change my own tires, I figure the cost saving of one puncture will pay back the cost... I see some tires strapped to the headache rack, but cannot possibly lift a flat tire back up there all on my own... I will install it in the same place as in the RC2 photo as that is the safest place to be for a roadside event... I did some measuring and it will be very tight between my 100gal tank and drive axle mudflap.. plan B would be to install a shorter tank, say 60gal, on the right side.. just an idea for now, will plan over time and install maybe next summer. Gearhead offered a possible source or I may just get one from UK...whatever is more cost effective. BC Mack

this was discussed.... http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?/topic/31081-v8-clutch-problems/ access is terrible, can barely get my fingertips in there and the front disk is just too hard to get at BC Mack

last update for "my summer project".... labour day was the target stop date, got to get back to my Scenicruiser coach project.... got the alum wheels cleaned up, not polished for now as I will do that later and I need to pick up two tires. I took a look at my troublesome clutch one more time, can now confirm that the front disk is firmly stuck to the centre plate... got to pull the trans... oh, well.... it was always on 'the plan' but I thought I would luck out. pulled the fuel tanks, batt boxes (one is toast) and air tanks.... and got the cross-over exhaust off.... all this was next years work, so, bonus. ran the engine one last time, used new fuel from a jerry can and let the return line drain to a bucket, so it's stored with good fuel. now.. I've got a question for you guys....... the last pic is of a Swiss based RC2 back in the day... take note of the spare tire carrier behind the fuel tank, very common to see this on UK or EU trucks, no "call the tire service" back then, you brought a spare. Anyway, I want to carry a spare in this position which doubles for a step too, but I've no idea if it was ever a 'norm' in America. Has anyone any ideas apart from making from scratch, are they manufactured here and where can I buy one??? thanks for your support of my work and generous comments, it's not going to hit the road soon but when it does I want it clean, tidy and reliable, and that takes lots of work. BC Mack

kscarbel2 can I assume you are referering to the US production? attached photo stolen from flikr of an Aussie MH with what appears to be a raised up cab, extra cab step and revised front corner panel with the door logo "ultra-liner II".. was this a factory logo or an owners add-on? BC Mack

nothing finer than a V8 Scanny with a tilt trailer... takes me back..!!! BC Mack

don't worry, Canadians have to compute and convert all this in our heads... imperial gals, us gals and litres... go into Safeway and the apples are price labelled in pounds but sold by the kilogram I grew up in the UK, I was weighed in stones, bought our coal in hundredweights and sweets in ounces... the lorries were weighed in tons, hundredweights and quarters... and I placed my bet at the turf accountant where the track was measured in furlongs... metric seems so easy... that's how many fingers I have.. ten... I think the Romans got it right..!!!! BC Mack

no plans for a trailer.... BC Mack