thomastractorsvc

That is what I thought but I don't have any switches and the PO said he does not know anything about it having one. Not sure now if the engine was swapped out. I looked up parts on the PAI site and I am going to see about finding everything to make it work. I know a lot off people say that the dynatard really does not do to much but looks like most of the parts I need will be under $100.

not sure how much rust in the texas air, looks like they have been sitting awhile.

Yes they are Any idea what that round thing on the rocker arm with the wire is? The fitting on the side of the block was leaking ouil so I stsrted jacking around with it and realized it had a wire connected on the inside so I took the valve cover off.

have you thought about making the return < t > into the compressor? I don't know what kind of flow you would have tying back into the water pump twice if I a reading what you wrote right.

Give me a PM with your address, send me a "new" data stick or a "new" blank cd with a self addressed stamped envelope and I will send you a digital copy of TS442 Engine, Fuel System and Clutch. I am in the process of the other two books that covers the rest of the systems. I have several TS442 and you want the last ones printed as they cover all years to include the B's and have all the latest tech bulletins etc... The one I digitizes dated 11/80 which is supposed to cover up to 1982, but as you know it also covers my 1985 Superliner as not much changed until they went to ecms. I am trying to see how to load it up on hear but I think the file is way to big at 134MB it is a searchable 858 page pdf. I will gladly accept a donation as I need to buy a new scanner as mine is getting cranky after a kazillion pages of dirty service manuals. My goal is to scan every service manual I own that relates to Macks and make available to fellow members.

That is the best kind of Neighbor!

Well after more than a year of searching I finally bought a dump truck. My plan is to get it on the road and expand business for this summer. Amazingly the interior is in really good shape with a few wear marks but no holes or tears. The overhead console is intact with only a small crack near a screw hole. The truck also has two air ride seats in really good shape, show some wear but no rips or tears. The cab is rust free even the gutter and still has original paint and seam seal in good shape. There is some pin striping done with a signature and date of 85, so I figure original paint. The hood is cracked on one side and the bumper was tweaked but I took it off and straightened it in the press and mounted it back on and pulled the twist out. The truck was originally set up for heavy haul with sleeper. Not sure but from the stickers and decals I think I maybe the third or fourth owner. The guy I bought it from said it was recently converted to a dump before he got it and shortly there after he had to replace the clutch and some transmission seals. So far I have been going over the truck trying to figure out what is in needs of replacement, what needs future replacement and what is okay. The owner I bought it from had it tagged and on the road for personal use with the last DOT done in October 2009. The paperwork he gave me shows he has put on about 6500 miles since the clutch job. I adjusted the clutch brake but don't think it has enough free play so when I can recruit a helper will look at that again. I am going to replace the air bags got them today. One was leaking and the others have a lot of dry rot http://www.ebay.com/itm/SureRide-Air-Springs-W01-358-9082-Goodyear-1R12-092-Best-Warranty/152008522793?_trksid=p3693.c100102.m2452&_trkparms=ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140212121249%26meid%3D985b02495e9241f6ac69d5579494945d%26pid%3D100102%26 Bought 4 new shocks they arrive tomorrow http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gab-83209 The previous owner told me that the DS drum was cracked so I pulled the tire and checked the brakes, they were just under 3/8ths and were Okay but for $45 per side I yanked them and will hold onto them for a future reline since they are P brakes and may not be able to get them in the future. In the process of stripping everything down found the clevis was seized on the yolk and would not come free so instead of jacking around I pulled everything and will replace it. Since I am going to run the truck I figured why give the DOT something to find. So the front axle gets brake drums, shoes, chambers and slack adjusters and air lines and oil caps. The king pins are tight and so are the tie rods and drag links.

Wheres all the pictures???

Thanks for posting

Maybe you need to change the water pump or could you put a t-fitting in?

I opened a photo bucket account as I can only up load to the galley and it says I am 135% over my allocation. Anyways, see if this works. As you can see from the picture it runs from the waterpump housing up to the heater and returns to the manifold near the temp sender probe.

For some reason body guys have to be on fire to get anything done.

No plugs or shut offs on the water pump housing? Excellent work.

Love that grill guard

You cant use the DOT nylon air hose?

I had to redo the AUX trans linkage and while I was under there I checked the measurements again, then drove it around a little and the clutch brake is working fine. I have not adjusted the clutch it self as it seems to be working fine but does not release until the pedal is almost all the way up. There is no free play would that be a cable adjustment or the actual clutch itself? My service manual only goes to 1980 and the it looks like a different setup than what it shows in the manual.

Looking good. What more do have left to do besides the cab?

Only one crosses to PAI numbers I guess I am going to take it apart and use the description and measurement to see which one it is.

although this is a different truck it is the rubber at the bottom of the radiator mounting /upright rod.

For a Superliner 1985 RWL vin#1m2u215y1fm001185 any know the part number for the two rubber bushing/ isolaters on the radiator support rods? Mack gave me 25158186, 20ql252p7, 20ql231p5 which does not make any sense since there is only a top and bottom. I asked for the hood welting and the gave the part number for center cab vent hood seal 25162648. I cant cross these to anything and they are $20 each.

I messed with it today and adjusted it seems to be okay for now. I set it for 10 thousands at full pedal and it is just about a hair or less more than 1/2" when released. On the clutch adjustment bolt it was way out and there was another threaded portion on the other side that he jammed an undersized both into. I am not sure if there is anything that goes in the threaded portion on the top side so I called Mack to see and if so I will order the bolt. I think I will need to adjust the linkage as there is not a lot of free play and it got dark.

Only money and ambition. You should have those guys send you pictures when they finish it

Gee Ed you have a paint booth? I might be up to see you. Looks good what about the rest of the truck?

I haven't checked but I just seen a video that shows one. I know on some transmissions the input seal is protected under a cap never seen one of these out of a truck

Can you use a torch on a 8 speed to cut the clutch brake out or is there a seal that will get damaged on the input shaft to the tranny? I bought another truck and just about had to shut it off at alight to get it to go into gear. Pictures to come still cleaning it up.