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Air line question


Ricky Beals

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I have a 2003 Mack ch613 that was converted to a dump truck. I’m replacing the line from compressor to dryer and it’s 80” long. I understand I need ss braided hose when I leave compressor but instead running whole length in ss braided is there something cheaper I can run after I leave compressor. I will run braided if needed but seems like overkill to go total run with braided. Thanks Ricky

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IDK how long they're required to be, but they're like that on account of the heat. Even the P clamps are lined in Teflon ( usually white on a Mack )  lots of them switch to something else with a fitting that is bolted to the transmission.  

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That truck usually has a stainless braided line thats about 30" long and goes to a bracket on top of the tranny where it then goes to a rubber coated steel  braided line to the input of the air dryer.  #10 JIC fitting's on the line end's. takes a 1" wrench to remove/install them..  jojo

Edited by Joey Mack
incorrect info
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yes sir...the E-6 I built last year had copper piping like you describe,  but he has an '03 CH-613... they run a stainless braided line from the top of the compressor to the top of the tranny, where it goes to a heavy rubber /nylon braided hose, down to the air drier.   with respect...  jojo

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Jojo got a question for you. Had an air leak on the 2003 ch613 and it was in the ss braided hose off the compressor. The guy before me had a 4’ ss braided 1/2”I’d hose connected to a 6’ hydraulic hose that was connected to dryer.  I know the hydraulic hose was wrong. If I understand you correctly that -12 fits a 5/8 nylon braided hose correct. 
 

I’m  wondering if I go to a Napa parts store they will know the correct hoses or do I need to go to a Mack parts store? Thanks Ricky
 

 

Edited by Ricky Beals
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3 hours ago, Mark T said:

IDK how long they're required to be, but they're like that on account of the heat. Even the P clamps are lined in Teflon ( usually white on a Mack )  lots of them switch to something else with a fitting that is bolted to the transmission.  

Mark what do you mean when you say lots of them switch to something else?

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12 hours ago, Onyx610 said:

Also make sure it has a decline to the dryer

If you run in cold weather , follow this advice or you will be froze up on the side of the road . 

About the size of JIC ..... I don't know what # it is , all I know is my stuff takes a 1 inch wrench like jojo said . 

Keith 

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The bottom photo shows it running along the transmission and top rail by exhaust. I don’t see anywhere to attach it to the top of transmission. Do you guys think this will be ok with the exhaust this close. My only other option is to drop it down when it leaves the compressor and run inside frame rail to dryer but I’m thinking it will create a low spot this way. 

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15 hours ago, Hans Remmers said:

I'm not positive but I thought it was a #10 jic as I always use -10 AII air brake hose to the dryer.  100r5 hose same as the truck uses for the fuel lines.

My '59 has all -10 hose from the compressor to the wet tank, it had a 2' piece of copper line off the compressor then a piece of 100r5 the rest of the way. I switched it to stainless braid, they call it "discharge hose". Made to take the high heat coming off the compressor. I bought a 4' premade Tramec-Sloan line from finditparts.com for $60.

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since it's a CH... pull the floor pan out and secure it properly and away from the exhaust pipe. There should have been a 90 degree mounting bracket where the line changes from the SS braided line to Rubberized steel braided line. It looks like you have a Mack tranny, the bracket should mount using one of the shift cover bolts.  I believe it is mounted on the same side as the air dryer.  of course, someone may have removed these parts before you got the truck, and hopefully you dont have to fight with a PTO control tower on the floor panel, in order to get it out...  Good luck, jojo

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3 hours ago, Ricky Beals said:

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On a truck that old ???  Who knows what someone did or didn't do to it over the years.  The important thing is you have the stainless steel /teflon discharge line . It really doesn't matter how long it is after a certain length.  If you do decide to anchor it to something away from the exhaust (good idea)  You'll need those P clamps with the teflon instead of rubber or they'll just melt and wear through your new discharge line.  Believe it or not, that discharge line gets pretty hot from the compressed air going through it.  Just run it with gradual bends if there's extra discharge line. (like winding it up in a loop is a sure way for it to collect water and freeze)

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same as the plastic lines replaced copper brake lines on the old trucks, the very expensive braided line is a replacement for the copper discharge line. modern tech  ;easier to install on the assembly line also. #10 line for flex to the tank/dryer , biggest issue i've seen is the usually 90 degree fitting at the tank . cold weather is the first freeze point.

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Ok I got a chance to look at another Mack CH and I saw the two brackets you guys are referring to. I definitely don’t have them. I will work on finding them to install. 
When I bought this truck I knew it was a little rough. I’m basically fixing up some property that’s been in my family and building roads for the property. My ABS light is on and I’m thinking most of the wires to the wheels have been cut. Would you guys hook the abs back up. I personally don’t use it much on the road but to get fuel. More than likely I will be putting farm tags on it at renewal. With that said I also want to be safe and not cut corners especially if it keeps me out of a wreck.

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