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Clutch brake question


MACKS

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2 minutes ago, MACKS said:

So for some reason my hinged clutch brake fell apart,after getting it out I notice what looks like another disc on the shaft,is this supposed to be there or is  it an brake or a spacer?

IMG_0581.JPG

That is the original clutch brake  the other one that fell out was an add on! I hope you have some one holding the clutch part way down you don't have much clutch gap there!

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15 minutes ago, fjh said:

That is the original clutch brake  the other one that fell out was an add on! I hope you have some one holding the clutch part way down you don't have much clutch gap there!

Yes had the pedal to the floor so I could get a better picture,what should I do take that out or leave it,I had a clutch installed a few years ago,why would they leave that in there?looks pretty flimsy compared to the hinged one that was in there with it..

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Well to answer my own question I'm gonna see if I can adjust the clutch to work with the one original brake,having two in there makes no sense and probably why it failed and I should mention this the second one that broke in less than a year..

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23 hours ago, MACKS said:

Well to answer my own question I'm gonna see if I can adjust the clutch to work with the one original brake,having two in there makes no sense and probably why it failed and I should mention this the second one that broke in less than a year..

So you need to adjust the linkage sothe brake has contact with the brake aprox one half to one inch off the floor then adjust the clutch ring inside  till you have a half inch gap between the the brake and the throw out bearing!

Edited by fjh
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Not sure if this helps, but here is the adjustment page from a 2-disc Spicer clutch instruction brochure.  It talks about setting the brake, exactly as FJH said, and then adjusting the internal clutch clearance.  I had to do this to my old R, after which the clutch and the brake worked perfectly.  Whoever put it in had not done this, and I thought I was in need of a new clutch, and I had no brake.  But, once properly set up, the thing worked like a charm.

image.thumb.png.75b4bebf6311c782d803f9a334078ebb.png

Edited by doubleclutchinweasel

"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

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The brake that in there now appears to be worn out on one side anyway,I tried to adjust the linkage to hit the the brake but no luck,if I had new brake in there it would be perfect where it's set now,got to get that old one out first,is torch the only way,saw a vid where a guy cut slots in a deep impact socket he used an extension and braker bar and broke it in half,not sure if the it was a one piece or a hinged,mine is a one piece,think that would work?

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8 minutes ago, theakerstwo said:

I dont know what trans you have but if its a mack trans it may have a front seal and you can burn it with a torch

It's a mack 12 speed,so how to remove it,will the slotted socket method work,should break since it a hardened steel I would think? Maybe an air chisel with a long bit?

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Air chisel with long bit, then a die grinder to cut through the stainless ring that's inside the brake.  If someone had two in there ?   you might need something to take up space. Remember  the more you turn the adjusting ring on the clutch cover the less holding force you have.

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17 minutes ago, Mark T said:

Air chisel with long bit, then a die grinder to cut through the stainless ring that's inside the brake.  If someone had two in there ?   you might need something to take up space. Remember  the more you turn the adjusting ring on the clutch cover the less holding force you have.

Yup might just put another hinged brake in front of that one and see if it lasts this time,you can see in the picture it's not very thick,maybe half of what the hinged type is..

Edited by MACKS
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Yes not sure why, but everything new ( clutch, transmission ) and gap was too big.  I used an Eaton two piece and a torque limiting ..... Worked fine.  I'm sure something was mismatched, I know I put a new Eaton 7 spring clutch in it as opposed to  the K+ for a 9 spring

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27 minutes ago, Mark T said:

Yes not sure why, but everything new ( clutch, transmission ) and gap was too big.  I used an Eaton two piece and a torque limiting ..... Worked fine.  I'm sure something was mismatched, I know I put a new Eaton 7 spring clutch in it as opposed to  the K+ for a 9 spring

Ok. Thanks for the info..

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I thought I was the only one that hates that style  put a new clutch in a truck last weak we had that style on the shelf I said oh no threw it in the trash my boss thought I was nuts  he said but it brand new.    nope I won’t put that in

Edited by mrgumby
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3 hours ago, mrgumby said:

I thought I was the only one that hates that style  put a new clutch in a truck last weak we had that style on the shelf I said oh no threw it in the trash my boss thought I was nuts  he said but it brand new.    nope I won’t put that in

The only good thing about them, don't have to pull trans to put in.    terry:MackLogo:

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1 hour ago, MACKS said:

So I'm gonna try this,what do I have to lose,I ordered two spacers one is 1/8 inch and one a little thicker,throwout bearing is barley touching the brake now one of these should do the trick,hopefully it stays on the shaft..

IMG_0588.JPG

IMG_0589.JPG

Hope that does it for you.  Looks like a lot of bang for the buck, as long as it works.  Looks to be fairly simple to install, at least.

Let us know!

"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

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3 minutes ago, doubleclutchinweasel said:

Hope that does it for you.  Looks like a lot of bang for the buck, as long as it works.  Looks to be fairly simple to install, at least.

Let us know!

I've seen those used before I have no experience with them though  Let us know how it goes! I would use it on the front side as yours looks quite worn!

Edited by fjh
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