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Bought a 1983 Mack MH 613 and need a touch of help


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It runs and DRIVES both directions!! 

 

The U joint on the shift linkage is a Rockwell L6N or MOOG 861 if anyone ever need to look 

Reverse is still tricky to find but it is there, it does not like to be clutched into gears as much at just coerced but that is fine. Will get it out on the road as soon as I get some signals and then the fun can begin. I m excited to start fixing the fun stuff. I was debating on chromed up super singles on the rear but leaning away from it I think they will not do well on the farm and in the snow 

Other than that I am looking for the grill pieces and on of the toolbox doors. Is there a new2me yard that specializes in these? 

Cheers. 

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Lots of women in the world,they ain't making MHs anymore 

Are you talking temporarily or permanently? My wife stopped that threat after I built this. It’s nice enough inside that she stays with me at shows now.

Right now, I am not sure exactly what the plan is. I am documenting it on Youtube for fun but it will for sure go back to work on the Farm at some Point. I ahve a 40 foot flatbed that is goin to go wi

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Glad to hear it moves .  Thats definitely a step in the right direction. 

When it comes to adding shinny stuff, remember .......      Chrome don't get you home 

Thanks for including us in your project.  I've enjoyed it :thumb:

Keith 

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The battery cutoff and the ignition switch are clearly a problem 

The cuttoff is frozen on and something is leaking heavily to ground. I get 12v from the aluminum step up to the Cab. 

My seems to be similar to everyone elses it looks like there is a master disconnect on top and a key powered solenoid. I think I will replace those 2 and see what happens. It is difficult to diagnose as there is so much current leaking into the chassis 

 

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Does anyone have a parts book for a 1983 MH 613? 

I am stumped on the shift linkage ball joints. The larger one I think is just something someone stuffed in there as it was not fitting correctly and the lower one does not seem to match anything I can measure out. I think I should start with what was supposed to be there and go from there. 

 

Thanks in advance for the help if anyone has a book. I wanted to buy one but they are few and far between it seems 

Cheers. 

 

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It would probably be a good idea to find a parts truck for all the things you need. Good used grille pieces are few and far between though.

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2 hours ago, MHfred said:

It would probably be a good idea to find a parts truck for all the things you need. Good used grille pieces are few and far between though.

I have been thinking on that, FYI  I need several little body and trim pieces. every piece of my grill has a little something broken on it. I wonder about having a replacement made out of polished aluminum or something

Would be a pain to cut out but might be a solution. 

 

Someday someone will read this and hopefully this will save a bit of searching 

The thermal fuse (electric breaker) is a Klixon 6766-19-100 $53 from Peerless 

the Continuous duty Solenoid is a White Rogers 124-906 $39 from Ebay (if you want the exact replacement) 

U-joint at the bottom of the shift linkage is crosses to a MasterPro 861 (There are tons of subs from different manufacturers) 

All that said, I am trying to sort the electrical gremlins right now.... 

 

 

 

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On 5/15/2020 at 1:42 PM, Vladislav said:

The engine looks like 2V E6-350 which was installed in MH's before 1985. It must have a chassis mounted intercooler in front of the main radiator. Very reliable engine and the most of parts are easy to fing and cost reasonable.

The solenoid looks like a main shut off relay. R-model has similar part installed under the dash. It gets on when you turn the ignition key and supplys power to instrumet panel gauges and alternator. Probably to other circuits either. Some outside lights (or all?) and engine starter are supplied straight passing the relay. I didn't look for the relay in MH since didn't have a trouble but my R-model has it inoperational from time to time. Usually after the truck is parked for too long. Actually it gets stuck and you have to turn the key multiple times or slightly hit the relay body. Once I bought the truck the previous owner hitted it every time he switched the ignition. I took the solenoid apart, cleaned and greased it and it turned out troublefree. But in a few years it started remembering me his existance.

Anyone have some recommendations on oil for this? Our 6v92's take Delo 100  straight 30wt but I am thinking Delo 400 for this.... 15w40 unless I am way off on something here. 

 

 

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36 minutes ago, Countrylife said:

Thanks, our Detroit's seem a little sensitive but that has to do with the injectors 

 

Really, worked on a many of them back in the day, never heard that before. Can you explain? Very curious.

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No, I am thinking that as they have a rack and mechanical injectors, they seem to be set up for Delo and prefer it. 

 

Maybe it was just me but I felt that when we ran a different oil, they were not as happy but IDK for certain. I know I love the motors 

 

 

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15 minutes ago, Countrylife said:

No, I am thinking that as they have a rack and mechanical injectors, they seem to be set up for Delo and prefer it. 

 

Maybe it was just me but I felt that when we ran a different oil, they were not as happy but IDK for certain. I know I love the motors 

 

 

I gotcha 

they definitely need the straight weight  delo 100.  & 40w is fine especially if it’s got some wear 

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18 hours ago, 1965 said:

I gotcha 

they definitely need the straight weight  delo 100.  & 40w is fine especially if it’s got some wear 

Well, ours have been "Fettled" a bit as well. We put slightly bigger injectors on them. Added blower gears with an extra tooth and bigger turbos out of 8v71s so they make a little more HP. Then we straight piped the exhaust. 

 

Does anyone know if the top of the dipstick is supposed to be flush with the pop of the neck? I think the handle fell off ours so I am not sure if it supposed to be down more or flush. Not that overfilling a little will hurt but I do not want to be way over. Now it just kinda sits there. 

 

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Another Question, On the bottom of the tranny there is an inspection plate missing with a grease zirk on a tube and some sort of shift collar in it. (Hi/Low?) 

Is it common to remove that plate and leave it off? 

It seems to have been gone for a while based on the grease on the flange. I am worried some tranny issue got this parked years ago. 

Thanks

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33 minutes ago, Countrylife said:

Well, ours have been "Fettled" a bit as well. We put slightly bigger injectors on them. Added blower gears with an extra tooth and bigger turbos out of 8v71s so they make a little more HP. Then we straight piped the exhaust. 

 

Does anyone know if the top of the dipstick is supposed to be flush with the pop of the neck? I think the handle fell off ours so I am not sure if it supposed to be down more or flush. Not that overfilling a little will hurt but I do not want to be way over. Now it just kinda sits there. 

 

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Never heard of doing that either, I must have gotten old! (except the straight pipe part)

Oil level on a DD would be bout top of oil pan rail, not sure on the MACK.

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30 minutes ago, Countrylife said:

Another Question, On the bottom of the tranny there is an inspection plate missing with a grease zirk on a tube and some sort of shift collar in it. (Hi/Low?) 

Is it common to remove that plate and leave it off? 

It seems to have been gone for a while based on the grease on the flange. I am worried some tranny issue got this parked years ago. 

Thanks

Sounds like zerk for throw out bearing, don’t over grease, watch & or listen for grease. Should also be zerks on each side of trans for the shaft & fork that pulls throw out bearing. Lots of covers have been taken off, it’ll be ok for farm use

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A quick question but does anyone have contact for a guy named Mike Harbison

Someone mentioned he had a few cabovers for parts and was on a few Mack Groups 

I need several things like heater controls, toolbox doors, pedal assembly, visor etc. 

Not sure if anyone knows a place for parts but I have talked to a few and they never get back to me. Thanks in advance..

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PM Mike Harbison. 

Mike's "Superdog" account is screwed up and he can't access it and have it work correctly.

Jim

It doesn't cost anything to pay attention.

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9 hours ago, Countrylife said:

A quick question but does anyone have contact for a guy named Mike Harbison

Someone mentioned he had a few cabovers for parts and was on a few Mack Groups 

I need several things like heater controls, toolbox doors, pedal assembly, visor etc. 

Not sure if anyone knows a place for parts but I have talked to a few and they never get back to me. Thanks in advance..

Pedal assembly? Did you tear up the one that was stuck?

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Mike is a member here as well as several Mack related FB groups. Mike Harbinson Sr is who your looking for but his son, Mike Harbinson is also on FB and one most of the FB sites as well. I just text Mike and told him to check out this thread.  I'm hoping to stop over and see him in a couple weeks as I'll be at a memorial service for a friend only about 70 miles from his place.

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On 5/31/2020 at 5:18 PM, MHfred said:

It would probably be a good idea to find a parts truck for all the things you need. Good used grille pieces are few and far between though.

I am looking hard for one, I did find a guy locally who has some parts, not a ton it sounds like but a few to keep me moving. Does anyone know if the Ultraliner Grill will swap? I have found one of those 

10 hours ago, Terry T said:

Mike is a member here as well as several Mack related FB groups. Mike Harbinson Sr is who your looking for but his son, Mike Harbinson is also on FB and one most of the FB sites as well. I just text Mike and told him to check out this thread.  I'm hoping to stop over and see him in a couple weeks as I'll be at a memorial service for a friend only about 70 miles from his place.

Thank you so much!! 

14 hours ago, Ditchdiggerjcf said:

Pedal assembly? Did you tear up the one that was stuck?

Not too much but it is pretty corroded. Functional for the short term but not really nice looking or all still there...

 

 

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10 hours ago, Countrylife said:

Does anyone know if the Ultraliner Grill will swap?

The MH is a Mack Ultraliner.  To my knowledge, it should fit fine.

Jim

It doesn't cost anything to pay attention.

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