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Replace a E-7 450 with16-liter MP10 engine


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I have a 2000 CX vison with a 460 engine. I'm maxed at 88,000 lb. everyday and frankly I'm not impressed with the performance of the E-7 engine I currently have. I would like to know what the issues besides the difference in torque tolerances pertaining to the drive line components would be if I change the engine to the MP-10 engine or if that is remotely possible. Also can I remove any emissions from the MP-10 that currently would not be supported but the existing wiring harnesses on the E-7 and the truck in it's current configuration?

I understand this is probably an undertaking that will be expensive if it's at all possible so I'd appreciate some impute from any one that has real-world experience in this adventure.

Yes I know I could buy another truck with the MP-10 already installed but that's not my first choice for personal reasons.

Than,ks in advance.

Nothing between us but air and opportunity

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Not to mention the MP10 alone is darn near half a ton heavier than an E7, and you'd probably lose a full ton of payload by the time you'd upgraded the drivetrain, etc. to handle the MP10's power. An E7 460 should have no problem moving 40 metric tons, best to fix it rather than throw it!

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3 hours ago, fullfuel01 said:

fit or not, they are not that much of a big thing. I havent heard anybody that like their MP10.

I LOVE my mp10. I run 90,000lbs constantly and it's totally effortless. I have the 525 hp version. This thing cruises at 70+ with no effort, no groaning, no heat issues and a great engine brake. My average economy has been 6.3-6.4 mpg this summer.  Mp10's also don't have all the injector issues. But with that being said, my etech 460 will out pull it on a long hill. That has stage 2 injectors and 45 psi of boost. And the shop figures over 500 hp on that. 

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If my 460 E-7 would pull correctly I'd be happy with it. I may look at upgrading the injectors and turbo once I find out what I can and cannot do to this engine. My dealer isn't going to be any help but I do have a couple of buddies that are Mack mechanic that can help when the time comes.

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Nothing between us but air and opportunity

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1 hour ago, fullfuel01 said:

I'll like to know what you have in your etech. all the one I have are gutless. They can't run with any good E6 engine. I had bigger injector on an etech 350 and bigger turbo and it's still not a good old dog. 

2001 cl713, 18 speed, 3.86 rears. CL's I believe are just a different animal. 

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they re designed the cab to accomidate the newer engines pretty sure it would be a major hurdle to just get it mounted in there. 

 

my 2000 460 pulls 90-105k gross all the time 13 speed with 3.73's and it pulls pretty good. not the most responsive engine out there and has a pretty narrow rpm range that it likes to pull hard in but it has no trouble keeping up or outrunning 475 c15's and 550's don't out run me by a whole lot. only place it struggles is loaded  heavy is soft spongy ground. it lacks a bit in off idle grunt. id start by making sure everything is running tip top first. 

Edited by Ezrider
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For fitting a D16/MP10 The CX rails are too narrow and it won't fit in the space between the cab firewall and the radiator.  The CX also doesn't have enough space up front to fit a rad that can cool a working MP10.

Shit out of luck

We use MP7s and MP8s to haul 90,000lbs gross up here.  MP8s up to 135,000lbs gross.  Thats why very few MP10s ever got sold, not worth the huge price tag as the MP8s are doing the job.

 

 

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On 8/18/2018 at 8:00 PM, Jamkar said:

If/when one of my Etech's 'called it a day', I'd have a serious look at fitting a 14ltr Detroit (hope this comment dosen't get me kicked out of the forum lol), not sure if that's a practical idea or not. 

If your e tech is in the early CH/CX rail the 12.7L won't fit from what I recall( to long and wide). It will fit in a set of CL rails as that beautiful 60 series engine was available feom 1993 up until 1995 as an option.

Too bad they made the option super expensive and the chassis was already too heavy for 80,000lb gross highway applications.

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The truck has a 13 speed and 373 gears on 285/75R24.5 tires. Everything has been checked out and the mechanics have not found a reason for the heat issue on the pyrometer.

The weight of MP10 wouldn't bother me, I figured it wouldn't fit, but had to ask. I've thought about putting a CAT in the Dawg just for the sheer looks of amazement I'd see when I opened the hood. I'd probably die from laughing at people.

Please don't send me hate mail because of that thought. :SMOKIE-LFT:

Nothing between us but air and opportunity

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  • 2 weeks later...

Here's an update and the solution to my problem. I removed the factory muffler and have the exhaust running through straight dual exhaust. The pyrometer temp. dropped to acceptable ranges and the boost is at 32 lbs. At this point I am happy with these results. Later I will install a resonator just so I am legal.

I've run heavier loads with smaller engines. I had a 350 Maxidine in my old R model that wasn't an issue. As far as speed, my current truck runs right at 100 mph, plenty fast enough.

Thanks for all the impute have a great Labor day

 

Nothing between us but air and opportunity

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Another of my 2 cents for y’all. One of y’all are gonna come and beat me up for getting in y’alls conversations, but here goes on the 460- change it to a 427 hp- (I hear this coming) if you will look at torque spec sheets for 460, you will notice that it doesn’t start to really go up until almost 1600 and around 1680-1700ist it drops, straight down. The pain with the etech programming has been, the lower hP, the longer the torque stays up. Something to think about. Also, I didn’t read deeply into the comments about pyrometer reading high, if it is and you notice coolant temp going up in a hard pull but seems ok most other times, look at your exhaust manifold and turbo exhaust housing, if they have a “velvet” appearance, it is a boost leak and if guys have checked your intake system and say nothing is wrong, ask if was checked with test plumbing on the turbo inlet or just checked the inner cooler/cac/air to air. If only cac was checked , check it plumbed at the inlet of the turbo and this is where y’all are ALL gonna think I don’t know the per  per verbeial but from a hole in the ground, done heard it. If everything is sealed on your intake and I also mean the air compressor inlet, which comes from the back of the intake manifold to compressor, pull the outlet line from the air compressor with pressure on the intake system and see if you have air leaking. Just had to put a compressor on a ‘99 and customer thought I had lost my ever loven mind until we hit the first hill with 92,000 on, not the first one I ever seen. Y’all can throw the tomatoes toward Alabama and NO, I ain’t no damn football fan. Good luck and sorry if I disturbed y’all   

And you thought only NASA had rocket scientist!!!!

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