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Superliner E-9 A/C compressor


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Looking to fix a/c on my superliner . Anyone all ready replaced there compressor on a E-9. What bolted up easily?

Was your Volvo/Mack dealer (or Watt's Mack Sales) unable to provide you with the correct OEM replacement AC compressor?

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Last time I swapped one I took it to Napa and they had me one the next day at half price of Mack.

"Any Society that would give up a little LIBERTY to gain a little SECURITY will Deserve Neither and LOSE BOTH" -Benjamin Franklin

"If your gonna be STUPID, you gotta be TOUGH"

"You cant always get what you want, but if you try sometimes you get what you need"

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Last time I swapped one I took it to Napa and they had me one the next day at half price of Mack.

. I tried the local Mack garage and the one they priced me was 785 bucks. The newer style one my my RD is only 280 dollars. Just trying to update to the 134a compressor instead of R12 old style. What about the condenser ,that is 650 dollars ,I suppose that is not to bad since it is the whole grille.
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there are a couple grilledensors (yes that is what its called) available, oe and aftermarket, neither is any better than the other in my mind, I swapped my compressor with the same style unit already set up for 134 at Napa for like $225 I think, its been a few years though.

"Any Society that would give up a little LIBERTY to gain a little SECURITY will Deserve Neither and LOSE BOTH" -Benjamin Franklin

"If your gonna be STUPID, you gotta be TOUGH"

"You cant always get what you want, but if you try sometimes you get what you need"

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Oh and the compressor does not have to change to go to 134 just the fittings and oil, I put the 134 kit in my old stuff but the compressor actually went out about a year later so I bought a new one that was identical to the old one just already had 134 compatible oil in it and the fittings are actually on the lines so no issues there either. I would just swap what you have over to 134 if it still works, replace the dryer with a new 134a dryer drain the oil and replace it and put on the adapter fittings and charge it up.

"Any Society that would give up a little LIBERTY to gain a little SECURITY will Deserve Neither and LOSE BOTH" -Benjamin Franklin

"If your gonna be STUPID, you gotta be TOUGH"

"You cant always get what you want, but if you try sometimes you get what you need"

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Oh and the compressor does not have to change to go to 134 just the fittings and oil, I put the 134 kit in my old stuff but the compressor actually went out about a year later so I bought a new one that was identical to the old one just already had 134 compatible oil in it and the fittings are actually on the lines so no issues there either. I would just swap what you have over to 134 if it still works, replace the dryer with a new 134a dryer drain the oil and replace it and put on the adapter fittings and charge it up.

. I will try Napa this week, my compressor says GM on it somewhere, but it also has another name on the tag just can't remember right now. The one on the truck is frozen up and does not turn at all.
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. I will try Napa this week, my compressor says GM on it somewhere, but it also has another name on the tag just can't remember right now. The one on the truck is frozen up and does not turn at all.

Sorry I did not say thanks before.
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On a superliner there is not enough air moving across the condenser and rad when not moving to cool properly. So I give up and installed a RedDot condenser on my roof and problem cured. If you watch ebay you can find the new sanden rotary compressor new for 90.00 to 190.00. A new mount brachet for the sanden is cheap so you can have a good A/C on a superliner.Min does not have enough air coming out of the dash to suit me.

glenn akers

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I talked to a guy that put a set of electric fans in front of a smaller automotive style condenser behind his grilledensor, he said it worked great And he never had a leak again. I have been pondering doing this under my charge air cooler in the future and initial measurements seem to work out. I was thinking of using a set of small twin push thru fans on a smaller condenser and running them off of a 30a relay so when the a/c was running they would be on.

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"Any Society that would give up a little LIBERTY to gain a little SECURITY will Deserve Neither and LOSE BOTH" -Benjamin Franklin

"If your gonna be STUPID, you gotta be TOUGH"

"You cant always get what you want, but if you try sometimes you get what you need"

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I talked to a guy that put a set of electric fans in front of a smaller automotive style condenser behind his grilledensor, he said it worked great And he never had a leak again. I have been pondering doing this under my charge air cooler in the future and initial measurements seem to work out. I was thinking of using a set of small twin push thru fans on a smaller condenser and running them off of a 30a relay so when the a/c was running they would be on.

Om my superliner 11 I had three thin hi horse power fans that cost much too much to think about on the back side of my condenser bolted neatly to the condenser. they did a good job but they were rubbing hard on the charge air cooler and no more adjustment to move them out. So I pulled them and installed the red dot on top. It was 94 here to day and I was cool all day.These fans were I think 1 1/2 thin.I had them on a feron fan switch thru a 30 amp relay.

glenn akers

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Om my superliner 11 I had three thin hi horse power fans that cost much too much to think about on the back side of my condenser bolted neatly to the condenser. they did a good job but they were rubbing hard on the charge air cooler and no more adjustment to move them out. So I pulled them and installed the red dot on top. It was 94 here to day and I was cool all day.These fans were I think 1 1/2 thin.I had them on a feron fan switch thru a 30 amp relay.

I didnt think they would fit in front of the charge air but under it they should, Ill have to look again but Im so used to keeping a window open I rarely turn A/C up much, I was in the work truck all this week in the high 80's and low 90's just riding with the windows open and the a/c on low.

"Any Society that would give up a little LIBERTY to gain a little SECURITY will Deserve Neither and LOSE BOTH" -Benjamin Franklin

"If your gonna be STUPID, you gotta be TOUGH"

"You cant always get what you want, but if you try sometimes you get what you need"

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So when you called the good folks at Watt's Mack Sales and spoke to Barry (providing your model and serial number), what price did he offer you for the OEM compressor?

With the AC system (and fan clutch) in proper working order, I never experienced the slightest cooling problem with the older RWS/RWL nor the newer RWI600/700s, so I can't seen any reason for modifying the grilledensor.

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So when you called the good folks at Watt's Mack Sales and spoke to Barry (providing your model and serial number), what price did he offer you for the OEM compressor?

With the AC system (and fan clutch) in proper working order, I never experienced the slightest cooling problem with the older RWS/RWL nor the newer RWI600/700s, so I can't seen any reason for modifying the grilledensor.

I am not running down mack A/C s but have worked on them my self for years and have friends with some of them and most have same problem as I. The grille condenser is so far out in front of the fan and there is no closure around the charge air and rad openings so the air can draw in around the condenser instead of thru it. this has been a well know problem for years with this truck. its ok till you set at idle out in the sun for a few mins and then the head pressure goes up and then the clutch kicks out.

glenn akers

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I am not running down mack A/C s but have worked on them my self for years and have friends with some of them and most have same problem as I. The grille condenser is so far out in front of the fan and there is no closure around the charge air and rad openings so the air can draw in around the condenser instead of thru it. this has been a well know problem for years with this truck. its ok till you set at idle out in the sun for a few mins and then the head pressure goes up and then the clutch kicks out.

Yep, I dont leave trucks running much but when I do I always bump the idle up to about 900-1000rpm to keep the cylinders cleaned out and the air moving over the cooling stack, I have never had a truck try to overheat running in the wind but I have had em heat up sitting still. I have actually never been in an older Mack with good A/C my r series cabs suck and so did my 93 CH, now my 04 Granite had great A/C but as far as truck A/C systems go Mack was the worst for years and years I drove a many a Freightshaker and KW with better A/C than any Mack till I got my 04. I think a lot of the Mack interior comfot issue is cab insulation or lack thereof, I have installed Dynamat on the floor and firewall of several trucks to have an instant 10-15 deegree drop in cab temp the next time out, just keeping the radiant engine, trans and exhaust heat out of the cab makes a huge difference. I know when I got my 84 the A/C was out so I made the swap to 134A and re[placed the dryer, expansion valve and cleaned the whole system and it was ok but running wide open it just didnt do much in the dead of summer, i tore out the interior and went in with two layers of dynomat and two days later back on the road my thermometer on the dash showed 15 degrees difference inside. When its 90 out that makes a huge difference, I was able to turn the fan down for the first time ever in a Mack to that point.

"Any Society that would give up a little LIBERTY to gain a little SECURITY will Deserve Neither and LOSE BOTH" -Benjamin Franklin

"If your gonna be STUPID, you gotta be TOUGH"

"You cant always get what you want, but if you try sometimes you get what you need"

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Only time I really get hot or stay warm is in the higher altitudes. Even on flat ground running into the wind. Coming across Wy I even dropped a gear and and slowed down but fan was still coming on. I noticed day before yesterday that the temp wasn't climbing as fast and hell I could get up a decent little climb or steady up hill where the boost was alittle high and it would slowly creep. Out west that bastard is 200 consistently and trying to climb. I can't leave the super coup in Cheyenne and have the fan off till after we top the mountain and head down to Laramie. then it is on with the Jake for the 10 to 15 it takes me to decend

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I don't leave trucks running much, but when I do, I always bump the idle up to about 900-1000rpm to keep the cylinders cleaned out and the air moving over the cooling stack,

Agreed.

My R-model experience with Red Dot and Signet air conditioning was extremely good, although I never cared for the Kysor unit that came with R-model glider kits. AC performance with a properly maintained F-model and MH was average, while the (Macungie-built) Cruise-Liner was above average.

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So when you called the good folks at Watt's Mack Sales and spoke to Barry (providing your model and serial number), what price did he offer you for the OEM compressor?

With the AC system (and fan clutch) in proper working order, I never experienced the slightest cooling problem with the older RWS/RWL nor the newer RWI600/700s, so I can't seen any reason for modifying the grilledensor.

. When I spoke to Watt's they told me 783.40 for the OEM compressor.
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. When I spoke to Watt's they told me 783.40 for the OEM compressor.

This is just one of many issues I have with Volvo. Since taking over Mack, they have adopted a strategy/policy of marking up spare parts prices to "just below" the point where most customers will walk away.

Let's take a simple example. An AC belt used to be $3.00 to $4.50. Mack's cost as around $1.00. Mack covered their overhead and made a solid profit, and yet the customer received a fair price. But Volvo came in and decided that most customers would be willing to pay $9.00 to $11.00 for that AC belt. Anyone that has been purchasing Mack parts for many years knows exactly what I am speaking about.

Mack Trucks wasn't selling the parts too cheap, rather they gave the customer a sound reason to shop at Mack's dealers rather than the will-fit parts house. But now Volvo has pushed customers out of the Mack dealers. No customers shop at Mack (Volvo) dealers for anything other than proprietary items they can't buy elsewhere.

Volvo's stick-the-customer strategy has been a poison pill to the service departments at the Mack dealers as well. They primarily do warranty work now because they are unable to be price competitive with customer and local shops.

And Volvo's termination of Mack part numbers, replacing them with meaningless Volvo global part numbers, has destroyed the once superior Mack parts system. The Mack part numbering system combined shear brilliance with simplicity. Easy-to-remember part numbers that told you exactly what that part was. Volvo's randomly chosen impossible-to-remember global numbers represent nothing. It amounts to much more than a huge step backwards. Relating to Mack, the part number change to Volvo global part numbers is just plain stupid.

The Mack part numbering system was VASTLY superior to the dysfunctional Volvo system. The Mack veterans in parts operations told Volvo the change was a huge mistake, and most of them were shown the door for not willingly going along with the "new way".

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