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First trip in the Mack


Loadstar

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Well, finally got a couple of hours the other day to change the oil.......and drain the gas tank....and check all of the fluids.....Funny, one of the guys I bought the truck from said it was almost out of gas, so I put in five gallons when ray delivered the truck.......had to pump out almost 30 gallons! Changed the fuel filter which is an inline now and did a couple other small things. Today took her out for a test drive....about 10 miles. VERY NICE!!!! And even more fun! Even with a exhaust leak.....and a couple crappy tires....i was impressed.....of coarse my shifting was a little less impressive to say the least....but i guess that will come with time....and a little more grinding......Just wanted to say thanks to everyone that put their two cents in.....it's appreciated!!!!!

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hi louie, most likely the fuel gauge does not function properly, took me a little bit to get the shifting down,double clutching, you just have to keep the RPM's low, start out in 2nd gear too. I did get filters from john chambers before., most important ....how are the brakes? had my truck a few weeks and during it's first parade one of the brake lines rusted thru and blow out.

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Congrats! Nothing like being able to drive it to make working on it seem worthwhile.

They all have their own nature, but I found if pause for a couple of seconds with the clutch engaged in neutral while up shifting it goes in pretty smooth. Going down you need to let the road speed die down to the lower end of the gear range and accelerate pretty high with the clutch engaged in neutral.

My gas gauge is also a "best" estimate. I try to keep track of the miles driven versus fuel bought and not rely on the gauge. Try Star Brite gas additive to treat the ethanol. Most fuel experts also reccomend that you only put as much fuel in it as you plan on using in the next 60 days due to phase seperation and the summer/winter formulation changes.

Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are!

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You might want to check on needing lead additive. When I bought my FWD pumper, I called Waukesha and spoke to an engineer there, they said that the stellite valve seats didnt need lead and to just "run the cheapest shit 87 octane I could find" (his exact words...lol)

TWO STROKES ARE FOR GARDEN TOOLS

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I was talking to Don Schumaker from the mack museum about the Ranger truck from Berwick. They had had the engine out and got it running. I am not very mechanically inclined so I do not remember the specifics, but after a few month the engine was stuck solid again. They pulled it apart and found something stuck. I don't remember what, but he felt it was because of the lack of lead as a lubricant. He recommended that I add lead to the fuel in all of my old gas engine vehicles. Since that I have. Like I said, I am not a mechanic so I have nothing to ad to it.

Mike

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This may sound strange to you, but have you thought of using Turbo Blue Racing fuel? It still has lead for the JD if it is gas ( I'm assuming ). If you are not going to drive it to Disney World in Florida then it will serve you well and have the power you used to remember and smell. Ok yes the cost is high but you have the best of the best equipment, so why not use it?

Go for it!

mike

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Not to "fuel" the lead-no-lead additive discussion, but the speaker at the annual SPAAMFAA meeting spoke about this. His position was that the additive did no good and wasn't needed. His background: Lubricant specialist for Ford and head of the fire museum in Ypslanti, MI that maintains over 60 antique fire trucks.

Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are!

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My thought is it does not harm except costing a little more and if it helps why not. Don Schumaker was an engineer at Mack and now is Curator of the Mack Museum so his credentials are not too bad either. I, myself, do not know, but I am willing to spend the couple dollars just in case. There are sources for leaded fuel and no ethanol fuel, but not near me or I would be buying it.

Mike

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Loadstar:

Double clutching is definitely learned by doing. I learned to double clutch when I joined the fire department. My department had a fleet of "L" and "B"

models so double clutching was mandatory. I found that each Mack, like people, had its own personality, some shifted easily, others required that you

hit the right spot when shifting gears. In general, I found the "L" models easier to shift than the "B" models; perhaps because they were older and the

gears were worn down more. In any event, I did my share of grinding the gears. Both the "L" with its four speed transmission and the "B" with a five

speed started in second gear. Good luck with your Mack.

bulldogboy

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If the engine idles the majority of the time you might be okay not using a lead substitute.

With that said...I would recommend using a lead substitute in gasoline since not all older engines have hardened valve seats. Today's gasoline is CRAP. The shelf life is several weeks to a few months. The cost (pennies per gallon) to treat the fuel with stablizer and lead substitute is minimal compared to problems that could arise from poor quality fuel. I put stablizer in all my gasoline (don't have any old engines or would use lead sub too) and even use a performance additive in all my Diesel fuel. Better to be safe than sorry. BTW, I am a retired Field Test engineer who worked for a major lubricant and fuel additive company - FWIW.

Ken

PRR Country and Charter member of the "Mack Pack"

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With that said...I would recommend using a lead substitute in gasoline since not all older engines have hardened valve seats.

This was precisely the reason the engineer that I spoke with at Waukesha said NOT to run any lead additive......

I do run Sta-Bil in my gas however......Usually Marine formula.

TWO STROKES ARE FOR GARDEN TOOLS

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