Noid93 Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 So, air compressor quits working the other night. Haul truck home, Did some reading her on BMT, tore into it today, and i have the same issue as gambi80 and others... Press fit shaft on the rear end of shaft has spun on the shaft. Here is the kicker, NO PARTS IN NORTH AMERICA OR WAIT TILL OCTOBER TO MFG MORE!!!! So i propose to you, what is the correct fix now;1) Weld gear on the end of shaft2) Half moon key shaft 3) Drill and tap a slot above key for set screw to prevent walking the gear off the end3) Re-create tolerances like you would on a crankshaft(weld it up, grind it down)4) Straight keyway5) (place your idea here)Any combo of the above? Quote There Is No Replacement, For Displacement!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhasler Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 #5 wrecking yard?Whats your VIN? Quote "Mebbe I'm too ugly and stupid to give up!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 Hey....at least ya got a good wrench not too far from ya. I'm talkin about Herb. Send him a pm for a cure. Regards mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 If it fits tight I'd weld together. If it doesn't fit tight, bore the gear and/ or turn the shaft and make a bushing. Press or weld it together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 If it fits tight I'd weld together. If it doesn't fit tight, bore the gear and/ or turn the shaft and make a bushing. Press or weld it together.That setup never did make any kind of sense to me. It is the same setup used on the V10 Chrysler engine with the harmonic balancer. You can't put an electric clutch pump belt driven by the engine due to severe damage to the crankshaft snout and balancer from slippage and ultimately, catastrophic failure.A woodruff key would be my choice of repair after resizing the bore of the gear, and diameter of the shaft if not welded solid. I would then "spot" the gear into position with a single weld.Rob Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noid93 Posted June 22, 2011 Author Share Posted June 22, 2011 #5 wrecking yard?Whats your VIN?VIN 072852 - 97 CH613I wont put a used shaft in for fear of this same scenario. Either way, if i cannot get a new one, i'm going to modify this, or another used one. Quote There Is No Replacement, For Displacement!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhasler Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 VIN 072852 - 97 CH613I wont put a used shaft in for fear of this same scenario. Either way, if i cannot get a new one, i'm going to modify this, or another used one.Your truck was built 9.25.96 and shows auxiliary shaft part number 453GC381M. You should be able to use shaft part number 453GC435M or 453GC435MX per SB 212-029. The parts system shows 453GC435M to be in stock. Quote "Mebbe I'm too ugly and stupid to give up!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noid93 Posted June 23, 2011 Author Share Posted June 23, 2011 Your truck was built 9.25.96 and shows auxiliary shaft part number 453GC381M. You should be able to use shaft part number 453GC435M or 453GC435MX per SB 212-029. The parts system shows 453GC435M to be in stock.It appears a new oil pump would be needed with this shaft also, based on an issue that these shafts had with oil pump drive gear..http://hr.mckenzietank.com/maint/Bulletins/45-sb219009.pdfI went ahead and had a keyway machined into it, and plan on using an extreem mating compound to mate the two parts together. There is still a very minor interference fit yet, so i belive this should hold. Im not a huge fan of welding a shaft that hard and tempered. One would think a keyway with a minor interferenc fit, plus the compound to keep the gear from walking off the shaft, and the air compressor coupler is right there, so it cant go anywhere..(i hope) Quote There Is No Replacement, For Displacement!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 It appears a new oil pump would be needed with this shaft also, based on an issue that these shafts had with oil pump drive gear..http://hr.mckenzieta...45-sb219009.pdfI went ahead and had a keyway machined into it, and plan on using an extreem mating compound to mate the two parts together. There is still a very minor interference fit yet, so i belive this should hold. Im not a huge fan of welding a shaft that hard and tempered. One would think a keyway with a minor interferenc fit, plus the compound to keep the gear from walking off the shaft, and the air compressor coupler is right there, so it cant go anywhere..(i hope)That shaft will only be case hardended to a depth probably not exceeding .015 in depth. This is why I recommend only a single spot weld for retention. I do think what you are proposing with workin in your application as the gear has no place to walk to as it drives the air compressor through it's associated drive coupler.Rob Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gbhtrd06 Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 Not to hijack this thread but I've got a e7 427 vmac engine that lost 3 teeth on the oil pump and hurt the gear on the aux shaft. Can anybody here help me find the correct parts to fix this? I've tried dealing with both local Mack garages and they are of no help and won't give me the time of day..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david wild Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 Depressing to think that you cannot find parts for a 96/97 truck, I know Volvo is behind it but I bet the EPA is behind it all, NO parts, NO run, buy new clean(BS) running crap. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gbhtrd06 Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 Yeah. Was hoping maybe a parts place was on here and could help me out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superdog Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 try PAI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel1 Posted February 17, 2022 Share Posted February 17, 2022 How do you take tha shaft out was easy or you need special tool?? I'm having the same problem with my truck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted February 18, 2022 Share Posted February 18, 2022 On 6/21/2011 at 8:38 PM, Rob said: That setup never did make any kind of sense to me. It is the same setup used on the V10 Chrysler engine with the harmonic balancer. You can't put an electric clutch pump belt driven by the engine due to severe damage to the crankshaft snout and balancer from slippage and ultimately, catastrophic failure. A woodruff key would be my choice of repair after resizing the bore of the gear, and diameter of the shaft if not welded solid. I would then "spot" the gear into position with a single weld. Rob Rob it drives a fiber splined cup I don't think there will be an issue welding it totally! the hard surface wouldn't be an issue in my opinion! If you need to run and your doing it your self just getter done! No warranty to worry about here! 😄 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onyx610 Posted February 18, 2022 Share Posted February 18, 2022 8 minutes ago, fjh said: Rob it drives a fiber splined cup I don't think there will be an issue welding it totally! the hard surface wouldn't be an issue in my opinion! If you need to run and your doing it your self just getter done! No warranty to worry about here! 😄 FJH did you look at the dates of this post?? 🤣 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vmac3 Posted February 18, 2022 Share Posted February 18, 2022 12 hours ago, fjh said: Rob it drives a fiber splined cup I don't think there will be an issue welding it totally! the hard surface wouldn't be an issue in my opinion! If you need to run and your doing it your self just getter done! No warranty to worry about here! 😄 Had these welded before by a professional welder. No issues whatsoever! V Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted February 18, 2022 Share Posted February 18, 2022 (edited) 12 hours ago, Onyx610 said: FJH did you look at the dates of this post?? 🤣 Haha ! Nope !🤪 Should have noticed Dave wild hasn't been here for quite some time! Funny how these pop up to the top from time to time ! Oh well it may get someone out of a jam some day! 😁 Edited February 18, 2022 by fjh 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post fjh Posted February 18, 2022 Popular Post Share Posted February 18, 2022 14 hours ago, Daniel1 said: How do you take tha shaft out was easy or you need special tool?? I'm having the same problem with my truck Sorry bro you should have started a new thread on This! remove the powersteering pump on the front of the engine there is a big nut to remove it slides out the back! 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel1 Posted February 18, 2022 Share Posted February 18, 2022 Thanks 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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