Rob

I must post this to bring recognition to Paul for the outstanding brokering of hauling my R700 from point of origin to staging area. Not only was the truck hauled without damage, ancillary parts were secured as well. He is also the originator of this forum. Thanks Paul!! Rob Swallows

Hi Chris, you wouldn't know of a SAE flywheel housing laying around for one of these would you? I could also use one for a 2.3 Ford engine also. Thanks, Rob

My 2004 has a 6 speed transmission but a 'baby quad' will bolt up to it, as per my guy-next-door Cummins rep. Hey Packer, just remember you will have to have an SAE flywheel housing to bolt to the engine to use the "baby quad" in the same size. I would assume the small quadraplex would have a SAE #2 housing. Rob

Paul, the torque rating is substantially higher with the coarse splines. There is a lot more "meat" in the splines. If you use a Thermodyne series engine, either spline size and type will work in your application. I would not use the fine, or smaller splines with a Maxidyne series engine as they will twist, and gaul, (over time and usage). Rob

Hi Graham, get a look at this website regarding leaf springs. These guys know their stuff about automotive and truck springs. I've used them for over 20 years without problems. Glad to hear your problem will be fixed straight away. www.eatonsprings.com Rob

I have a magneto and misc other parts for an AB series Mack if you are in need for these items. Rob rob@autoaffair.com

When I had my double over triplex on the floor, my daughter counted almost 70 complete revolutions of the input shaft when I twisted the output shaft 100 times. The transmission is a 1958 model according to the build date. Don't know much else about it other than works well. Rob

Agree. The grille needs closing panels on the sides. Too much open area. Rob

I'm going to go out a little further with this idea that Paul has brought up and I think is worthy of fostering and support: Within the next couple of months I will have more time on my hands devoted to older trucks so here are some idea(s) that I propose: 1. We could ask Barry to create an area, or forum that I could post a compiled list of trucks/parts needing to be relocated, and dates of opportunity for the transfer. 2. Any trucks/parts and available dates for hauling could be sent to me at rob@autoaffair.com for updating and posting to this forum on a weekly basis. This is to keep more than one person from overlapping and mistakes in scheduling. I would also need to know what type equipment would be needed to haul your freight, (tarped, open, lowboy etc.), and overall size. A good portion of us participants have relatives, or friends in the trucking industry that could be utilized as to keep costs in check. All truckers surely want to contain their operating costs and this could be a way to lessen deadhead expenses. I don't really expect to utilize persons that are "profiteers" solely, as the purpose is to maintain affordability in the hobby. I'd like some feedback to see what you guys think. My gut feeling that it could work very well if kept in mind for what it is, an antique truck hobby, and costs need to be kept reasonable. This idea could even make a truck and/or parts in the west affordable to get to the east for example. Thanks, Rob

Now this is the way things should go. Paul was instrumental in the coordination of picking up, and the delivering of my R model from start to finish. I feel the cost was very fair and am pleased that I could help offset the cost of the operation. We need more participants in the club like this. As Paul suggests: Let's get an active "need to have hauled list" that is updated regularly, posted for others to use to keep costs afordable. Thanks again Paul. Rob

If the heads bolts had been retorqued at 12K after gasket replacement, I don't think there is any benefit to retorque again. The compression of the gaskets has already taken place, and the stretch of the studs has already settled in. I'm not saying it would be a waste to perform the operation again, and by all means since the rocker covers are already off, adjust the valve lash and retorque if you would be more comfortable. Rob

Hi Chuck,what year is the R700 parts truck? I'm needing a few parts for mine and it is a 78. Thanks, Rob

I've never done that but can tell you that parts are anywhere from non-existant, to exhorbitant in cost for both the Thermodyne, and Maxidyne series V8 Mack engines. This is of course in comparison to the inline Mack engines. Just my opinion. Rob

I'll get some pictures for you along with part numbers. The tag is still on the turbo, and the manifold piping has casting numbers on the pieces. Rob

I believe it would have as I was only using about 2/3 throttle via a remote cable. I can't say for sure because there was no pyrometer installed so I don't have/know all the available information. My thoughts are that I hit the mechanical limits of the design. I also purposely did not incorporate any charge air cooling because of underhood room in the average B model. Rob

Hi Terry, I have heard a person could do that. I was not trying to develop something solely for my own use but rather something that anyone could accomplish on their engines with little effort such as bolt on parts. There are a lot of old 673, and 711's still out there and are underpowered, and non fire ring. Often the cost to rebuild an engine exceeds the value of the truck hence the thought process on this idea. Thanks, Rob

Hi Herb, still need to get up your way but just can't get away from broken equipment. My B-61 with the turbocharged 711 is a 1964 model. It was not built as a factory turbocharged engine but rather the "official" Mack factory conversion. The engine is back to stock configuration now as I ran out of time and patience till another day with the project. Many of us with B model trucks have similar powertrains so I started with a simple goal in mind: To make 300 reliable horses at 1800rpm from a "Thermodyne" series engine without any exotic modifications to make it more durable, hence a bone stock 711 that had a notoriety to it. I have several other non fire ring 673 engines, but only this one 711. It therefore did not matter a lot if it blew up. A friend of a friend that builds sprint, and stock car engines had a chassis dynamometer which was mine to use at the time but was not set up to set up semi tractors, so we had to be a little creative. I sent a "reasonably good" Garret T-18 turbocharger (large) to another friend in Texas that I went to high school with, along with an injection pump from a Maxidyne series ENDT-676 engine, injectors and an exhaust manifold from the 676 engine, along with the horsepower, and torque specifications I was trying to achieve. The injection pump was sent to someone that does a lot of "trick" pump work as my friend only builds/tests turbochargers for a living. What I got back was a "cored out" exhaust manifold that was "Jet Hot" coated, a special machined adapter to mount the turbo to the manifold, the original injection pump recalibrated with 11mm barrels, modified injectors with more spray holes, and a different turbocharger (smaller) mapped to fit the engine characteristics. When assembled, and with the exception of some different plumbing to get everything married up, the engine did not idle any different than before. It was a different story upon stepping on the throttle though. Older Mack trucks and black smoke seem synonymous, so I didn't think too much of it but the increase in power was very noticable. I also think the oil bath air cleaner was a little restrictive. After driving to the dyno shop and figgering out how to chain the truck to the floor, removing the rear driveshaft, and outer rear tires, I was almost ready to obtain some measurements. This dynamometer was not set up for tandem drives, or the width needed for duals. Unfortunately, I broke the cable needed for the pyrometer, (my big feet) at first so was unable to obtain exhaust temperature readings but the engine was making 312 horsepower at 1825 rpm, and almost 790 ft. pounds torque at 1630 rpm. All seemed to be happy until near 1875 rpm the engine was again loaded, the engine started to develop a miss that turned out to be a head gasket let go between the number 2&3 cylinder as I watched a flame shooting out the side of the engine at the back side of the turbo. After unchaining, unhooking, evaluating figures, I then decided to change the headgaskets the next day. The engine was pretty warm at this time from the loading. After removing the cylinder heads and carting them to the machine shop, they were rebuilt. The ports and bowls were matched to the exhaust manifold, all new valves, springs, retainers, keepers, and guides were installed. The mating surfaces were also planed .010 to ensure a perfectly flat sealing surface for the new gaskets. The block deck was "straight edged" and had about .006 from one end to the other and well within specs. The engine was assembled, and a compression check made on all six cylinders and all were within 10% of each other I thought I was good to go. After the rechaining, wiring and all needed things to test the engine again, we were ready to go. It was really surprising to achieve almost the same result as before but a little more horsepower (317 as opposed to 312) at 1875 rpm when the new head gasket let go at the same exact spot. Well after spending nearly a $1000.00 at the machine shop and parts house, I was ready to conquer this challenge. I called Victor-Reinz corporate direct and spoke with one of their engineers to come up with a solution (hopefully) to why this engine would blow two sets of head gaskets in the same place twice at damn near the same operating parameter. It was recommended that I use one of the graphite based gaskets with the stainless steel ring around the cylinder(s) as my engine did not have fire rings. After acquiring two of these $86.00 gaskets, and installing them we then hooked the truck up again to have the same exact thing happen again!! At this point it was time for a breather to figger out where the project was jinxed so I put standard gaskets back in and the original turbo, manifold, injectors, and pump back on the engine which has now run fine for a couple of years. The truck for all practicle purposes is past prime but runs well so I keep it around for a "yard dog". I can only assume the head gasket(s) blowing at the same point and operating parameter are due to a non fire ring engine coupled with the deck sealing surface having a bit of warp to it even though it is within factory specifications. As we can tell, I was way outside the design parameters of the engine, so in my opinion there is no fault to be concerned with. On the final engine run on the dyno, I did have a boost pressure gauge hooked up and 28psi was the reading at 1875rpm. The original Schwitzer turbocharger runs between 9-11psi which is nowhere near maximum loading. This was just my "playing around" to both learn and see if all could benefit from anything. I think one could get a reliable 275 horsepower from a 711 engine but would be sure to fit a pyrometer and drive by it. I don't know if a hobby truck would need improvements in power or not but by today's standards, 170 horsepower is a little lacking. I basically wanted to see if it could be done. Just one of my many varied experiences. Enough spouting off for now. Rob

I had heard these new trucks were to be powered by "STAR TREK" quality dilithium crystals to exponentially increase both power, and driveability. This is all the while lowering, (to near zero) overall exhaust emmisions. The "five year before refueling span is sure to put the "hurts" to the oil exporting countries. Thus, less american dollars will go to support our "allies". Projections are that the sealed/recyclable refueling cannisters will soon be available at your local grocer and will be a "drop in" replacement about the size of a gentlemans wallet, or billfold. It is also rumored that the by-product of running these new engines is purified water suitable for consumption by human infants, and household pets. Of course this technology has a tempory increase in costs due to the usage of "food grade" stainless steel, and high temperature plastics involved. Over time it is projected that the costs of these materials is to decrease due to lack of demand for fossil fuels, (OPEC) a.k.a. no product to sell, therefore no money to purchase anything, no need for protection, so raw material prices fall sharply. They will also settle their own disputes. The U.S. EPA will then be desolved due to extreme reduction of greenhouse gasses as a cost saving measure called "cost vs benefit". And to think, It all started with Mack Trucks engineers. I think they will be around awhile yet. We are proud and once again saving the world from the likes of tyranny and oppression, through engineering. Yes, Mack and it's engineers will be around quite awhile longer.

I've never driven that combination before but I can tell you I could have "catnapped" in between the upshifts on my first R model with a 237 and a five speed. Never did really get the hang of it before needing the engine for something else. Rob

HI Paul, I left you a voicemail concerning this offer. Please return my call at 309-219-2070. Thanks, in advance. Rob

The term "Maxi-Brake" is a term coined by the Gunston-Bacon Brake Co. from Compton, CA many years ago for their spring parking brake invention. This is as I was told. My 51 A-40 has the original spring brakes, and valves in the the cab for them. In fact, you pull the knob out to release the parking brake, and push it in to apply. Rob

I decided to go with a rebuilt pig for $1,895 out the door, thats with all new guts with a one year warr. Its either that or some used unknown pig, or more lost revenue from down time. I think this decision is prudent if one makes there living with their equipment. Rob

Something else to remember on these Delphi/GM/Bose, etc. factory radios is that if you completely remove power from the vehicle, a "theft prevention device" sets a code into the radio rendering it useless until you pay a dealership $70.00 or so to reset it. To prevent this action, obtain, or purchase a "computer memory keep alive" item that plugs into the cigarette lighter to keep battery power applied to the memory circuits while you change the trucks batteries or whatever you would need to kill power in the truck for. This way you do not lose your radio presets either. Rob

I believe the end of the "throwout shaft" should be splined, or indexed for proper mounting of the arm you speak of. It sounds to me that someone placed the arm into the wrong set of splines, or the arm or assembly is incorrect for the application. Rob

Hi David and thanks so much for the electrical print. It will help me greatly. Be sure to let me know if I can return the favor at some point. I do mean that. Rob 309-245-2070