Rob

I had two, one held 44 quarts, and the other held 60. This was plus filter(s), so I don't know the exact amount. I put the initial amount in, started the engine and then finished by topping off. Rob My fat fingers: The smaller pan did hold 34 quarts, not 44. Rob

The first time I drove an R model was in June of 1976 and it was new; I did not like it. For some reason, I could not get used to that damn 5 speed transmission, and it did not have the "feel" of a B model, or R-190 IH. This was for a job my grandpa arranged for me to shuttle tractors between the Mack dealer for maintenance, and the plant. They still had quite a few B models working at that time. It was definately different to climb up into and was a bit rough on the ole shins for the first few entries. What really biased me against the R models was when I was backing a trailer into a dock, and really wheeling the steering wheel around, I caught the little finger on my left hand in the wing window rail and broke the knuckle!! Well bitchin to my grandpa did absolutely no good, (except being reminded that I was still young enough to take an ass whippin from the old man) so I learned to be a bit more careful. I purchased a 72 R model dump truck a few years back and really liked it. It had quite a bit more power loaded than my A-40 dumper so I wanted to use it for the upcoming project which was my shop. After a few loads of fill sand, the frame gave way in two places and I never got around to repairing it. The engine and trans were sold, and the carcass sits on my property. The A-40 finished the job as it always does when called upon. In November of last year, I acquired my first R model I plan to keep long term; RL755LST35359. This truck is really quite nice. The interior is at an upholstery shop being remade original as it was obviously an owner/operator truck. I phoned the original owner whom did custom order it. It is also the only Mack I've owned that did not have a Mack engine. This one is a Caterpillar 1693TA. It runs very well despite an oil leak that is too bad to tolerate. It had new door shells but the roof corners were rusty and thanks to ole Barry I now have a new roof skin, but after removing the old, more rust issues have come to light. Funny thing is that there is no structural deficient rust in the lower parts of the cab, just the roof area. It looks as if the 72 is to give up some needed parts for it's younger cousin. If I were in the truck driving profession, I would acquire an older R, or RW series truck/tractor. Also the 98 model of RD model was appealing to me. I'm especially fond of the long, squared off hood look/design. The cab on these series I find very easy to see out of, and with a 20" steering wheel, are quite comfortable to drive. (I'll never forget the finger incident). Yes, I do like the older stuff much better than anything built in the last 25 years or so. My favorite of all the trucks I have, or have had is my A-40. It is small, hard to see out of, hard to steer (especially loaded), and has little power, but has never failed to perform the job I ask of her. In my opinion, this truck has personality. People really "rubber neck and wave" when I'm out with her, loaded or empty, and to me "It just don't get no better than that". Rob

A word of advice on aftermarket door shells from experience. You truly get what you pay for. If you purchase new aftermarket door shells (produced in Taiwan via ebay etc..) be sure to undercoat them well on the inside, and also purchase 3M brand sound insulator pads (they cut down on resonance considerably) about 12"X12" and stick to the center of the door skin on the inside. These pads are not so much to dampen noise, (who the hell can hear much in an R model anyway), but to partially eliminate "skin flex". The aftermarket door shells have a lot more "flex" when mounted and I've seen 3 sets cracked around the mirror brackets, and door handles in my shop alone. I know Mack OEM parts are expensive, but if you go the extra money, prep and install them correctly, it will be money well spent in the long haul. Rob

I did not purchase new doors. They were new OEM about 18 months ago from the previous owner, I only cleaned and oiled the moving parts as they were a little stiff to operate. Rob

It will probably take a person about an hour and a half to gut the first door and build up the replacement. Will probably take about 1/2-2/3 that time to do the second. I did both of mine in under an hour but that doesn't count the cleanup and greasing of the working parts. I did not need to replace anything. If you are not experienced in this kind of operation, only do one door at a time to use the second as a guide if you get lost. Rob

I can tell you that in the Communist Republic of Illinois that it is no problem to plate a vehicle that is 25 years plus in age with antique plates. The cost is $37.00 for five years and pro-rated within the window. I have my 51 A-40, 57 B-61, 58 B-61 plated with antique plates. Of course I cannot use the truck(s) commercially, or for hire but who is to say the loads of fill sand or dirt, or gravel is not for my personal use at the shop? Most of the local folks, (including law enforcement) are pleased to see the old girl(s) work, and give me a wave as we pass. Antique registration exempts from a state inspection also. I've never inquired about IFTA, and have never been out of state with my trucks so I can't answer for that part. The law explains that usage is limited to travel to and from expositions, service and repairs to the vehicle, and occasional testing of the vehicle. I know several people that have tried the antique plates on older cars and driven them daily, and been ticketed for non compliance to the registration. I'm just saying I've never had any problems, but never had to deal with anyone except local persons, and they know me. Rob

We got about 5-6 inches 20 miles west of Peoria, IL. Peoria got 8 inches. Havana Illinois got 12 inches and it's 30 miles south of us. It's damn windy and a lot of impassable drifts around. Rob

On my 64 B-61 I get water in mine ever so often during the winter. I think it is the snow getting sucked in during operation. I installed a new rubber seal as mine was deteriorated several years back after first acquiring the truck because the pan was nearly 50% water. Rob

Thanks for your interest in helping!! I really want to get onto the show circuit this spring. This trailer needs several crossmembers replaced but the main rails are appearing to be sound. If it is the right trailer for me, I can get it ready for use through the remainder of the winter months. Rob

Hi there, I'm looking to acquire an RGN lowboy trailer. Is there anyone around Ringe, NJ that could look at this for me for an outside "unbiased" opinion? The trailer says rusty and is a 1967 model, but from the pictures, looks like the main rails are sound. I'll be glad to compensate for any help. Thanks, Rob rob@autoaffair.com I made a mistake!! The trailer is in Ringe, New Hampshire!! It is located at 202 Truck and Equipment, telephone: (888)688-4561, Talk to Tim, or Steve. Thank you gents, I really appreciate your help. Rob

This gets done quite often actually. Most any good automotive upholstery shop will be able to fabricate up a headliner with stiff cardboard (actually oilboard) and tape to hold the shape. This pattern will often be used to manufacture the finished product. 1/8th inch plexiglass is really good to use for a pattern or template if you use a hot air plastic welder. One can really control the application of heat with pinpoint accuracy to bend and form the plastic. Rob

Also the water pump, pulley(s), and crank damper. You will need to modify your front engine mount. Rob

And to add to what Herb said; Pull a load with it if possible. Rob

Appreciate your time Kelly. Rob

Hi Chuck and Herb: As Chuck explained is what the problem was with mine. Number 3 plunger was stuck in the up position and would not allow the rack to move. I was able to (with a screwdriver) get the plunger to pop back down but being cautious, (and never having a pump apart) I wanted to see what made her tick so to speak. After I cleaned everything up I used a very fine paint stick to make index marks before anything was physically removed to eliminate confusion, (I do confuse easily LOL) and from there it was just take it apart, clean, and reassemble, reinstall. I did not have to set the timing as the pump only mounts to the engine one way and if the engine is not turned over with the pump off, it will not be out of time. It now runs great again. This is the truck (for my daughter) that will get the engine up your way Herb. This engine will become another spare and if CleviteKelly can locate a suitable rebuild kit, I will "freshen" it up a bit just so it is ready. Rob

As Herb said, or in the case of my 57 B-61, one plunger was corroded and struck. I took the pump off of the engine, removed the side cover, and all delivery valves, cleaned everything in the solvent tank with fresh solvent, and then worked all little pieces parts gingerly until all was free again. It was quite simple to do, just time consuming. After re-installing the pump, the engine runs very well. I've got a rebuild book for your pump if it is an APE type pump and will copy if it will help you. Rob

Isn't it great to see a worthwhile truck go to a good home? Best wishes with the project. Rob

Hi Kelly, thanks for the reply. I have several Thermodyne series engines, some in trucks, others on the floor, and most could use rebuilding, or "freshening up". They are good stable, and reliable engines, but obtaining parts, (especially cylinder kits) are expensive, and increasingly rare. I'm only referring to the non fire ring engines. I do think there would be enough interest in putting together a complete engine parts package as the B model series of Mack truck seems to be the most desirable to restore and maintain. I'm sure I'm speaking for the group as a whole and we would appreciate any help you could provide. Thanks in advance. Rob

Hi Kelly, let me also welcome you to the forum. It would be great if you could convince the powers that be to reproduce a reasonably priced inframe, and out of frame engine rebuild kits for the non fire ring 673, and 711 diesel Thermodyne series engines so many of us have. Parts are getting increasingly difficult to obtain, especially liners, and piston sets. Thanks, Rob

Pardon me on this one but I don't see any reason to take offense as there was no reference to yourself or anyone personally. We all have values and beliefs and they should be cherished and respected by all, even if we don't believe the same. I know, I should have been a preacher...... Rob

My 676 engine with an RT-910 transmission behind it did just that. I did not like the combination as the engine never seemed to be in it's torque band. Rob

My engine fills the bay front to back. There is no doghouse protruding into the cab but it is a tight fit to get a hand behind the engine against the firewall. Rob

1693TA Caterpillar in my RL755L displaces 893 cubic inches, 14.6 Ltr. 425 hp@ 2100rpm, 1275 pound ft. torque@1400 rpm. These figures are conservative I'm told by Caterpillar engineers. Rob

Hi Trent, that was the original plan until I found out how few of these trucks were produced. The other party also needed funds so the balance (engine) was acquired to keep the truck together. I'm currently working on another long hood Mack chassis, but there are title problems, (divorce) and it will be a while before that is settled. The Detroit will have a home in the future. Rob

Hi Jeff, thanks for your reply. I don't want to take some vendors word for the quality of their parts but rather "real world" experiences such as yours. I have not read any literature on any FP diesel warranty; I just know from being in this part of the world, (Peoria, IL) that the Cat dealer will only recommend factory parts. Carquest, has no listings for the engine in their catalogs. NAPA only lists a head set and it the same cost as Caterpillar branded parts. I switched paint vendors and manufactures due to similar warranty issues when the product failure was clear and without doubt, so I realize what you are referencing. Rob