Rob

Joe, that truck looks good. I haven't sent any parts out for plating, but will. I think I've located a truck for it, but not a done deal quite yet. Thanks for the picture. Rob

Joe, I hope I don't make you sick also. I'm looking for a Mack chassis for my Detroit. If you need a bottle of Mylanta, or Pepto-Bismol, let me know. Here's a picture of my engine. Rob

Cats are less greasy baked, not fried. After skinning, splay cat on cold cookie sheet, brush on fresh butter and lemon juice, bake at 350 degrees for two minuets per pound, turn and bake other side for 5 minuets. Now there is a Hearty meal!!! I don't see any dilusional thinking there at all. In fact, you have my blessings and best wishes for a satisfying job that is well done. You certainly have a good start. Rob

I run J8 Champion plugs in my A-40 without problems. I do change them about once every couple of years but they are not fouled. Rob

Diesel Brad: You're not kidding there about fuel mileage. Across Iowa, and Illinois (relatively flat ground) with the speedometer set on double nickles, I could get 17.3 mpg on average empty. The truck empty with a full bag of fuel weighted 17,760 pounds. I consistently got better than 11 mpg on wrecker calls. That Mack got about 8.5 to 9mpg no matter what you did. Rob

Since this project is to ultimately wind up in a Mack chassis, I will ask the questions here also: I have a 32VDC 50MT Delco starter on my 12V-71. I also have a fresh 12VDC 42MT starter from a Mack ENDT 676 engine that I had rebuilt and have never used. I would like a definitive answer if it would be better to purchase a 12VDC armature for the 50MT starter, or use the 42MT starter if it will physically fit. I have not talked to a vendor yet and have not had the 50MT starter off of the engine for comparison. I asked similar questions on the Detroit Diesel board and one knowlegable gentleman answered that the 42MT would probably work in warmer weather, but I would like to have use of the truck year round so I'm concerned. Thanks for any help. Rob

Hydroflouric acid and Maple syrup stirred together but it leaves carcasses behind. Use a low rim plastic container to hold the mixture so they will not tip or spill it. Also, keep away from anything you do not want to kill as it is fatal once ingested. Rob

I had a 1964 GMC truck with that same shift pattern. It was always funny to ask somebody to back my truck out someplace just to watch, (from a distance of course)!! My Mid-liner truck was reverse to the left and up, very standard. The transmission was a Renault BDSL-181. Rob

Did the machine shop only grind the friction surface and not the mounting surface a corresponding amount? They have to be ground together or the clutch disc(s) will not have full contact pressure between the pressure plate, and intermediate disc, and flywheel causing slip you will not be able to adjust out. What style clutch do you have installed? Rob

I had one in an 89 CS-300P truck that I put a 22 ft. steel rollback bed on. It gave very good service as far as reliability. Good starting engine without being plugged in on winter nights, backed by a close ratio 6 speed overdrive transmission. Like I said, it delivered very good service for me but if it was to break, Mack had you "right where they wanted you"; as most parts were only available through the dealer and they were expensive. Rob

Hey guys, anybody have, or know of a drivers side door for a R series International truck? I rolled my crane over the other day with a blown hydraulic hose on the boom swing cylinder. This truck is a 65, but any door from 53 to 65 will work. I need everything except hinges. Thanks, Rob Swallows 309-219-2070

Hi there, I think I've got a truck I going to install the 12V-71 into. My questions are these; I have twin T18A40 turbochargers installed onto this engine with a .96A/R ratio on the compressor side, and a 1.00A/R ratio on the turbine side. I know that the turbochargers are fitted with that A/R turbine housing for fast spool up from dead stop to 1800 rpm. In standby power generation installations, engines are called upon to assume facility load within seconds of cold start. I am wondering if the turbochargers will work in a varying rpm band due to truck usage, or should I have the turbine housings and wheels changed/modified? I'm really concerned about overspeed and catastrophic failure, rather than "brute force". My typical airbox pressure at 100% facility load (on load bank) is about 21 psi, with engine temp about 175-180 degrees F @ 80 degrees F outside temp. There was still more to go with the load bank but no need to push the envelope. Thanks Rob

It seems that you have loose front end parts, or a badly misaligned/bent front rim on the steer axle. The control valve for the steering mechamisim is trying to re-center the linkage and when it takes up the slop, it rapidly shifts the other way. Control valves are very close tolerance internally, and just a fraction of an inch movement (internally) will cause them to route hydraulic boost pressure in the direction it thinks you are try to turn the truck in. When the loose front end part shakes a bit due to clearance or wear, the control valve rapidly shifts direction. It doesn't matter all that much on a "long arm, short arm" type front suspension, but king pins are much more susseptible (sp?) to this behavior. Hope this helps. Rob

Either the seals, or piston/bore area of the control valve have gone bad. It is time for a rebuild. Most hydraulic steering facilities such as Chicago Power Steering can take care of the problem. Rob

Trent, you need type "K" thermocouple wire for this application. A thermocouple makes it's own current to drive the pyrometer. The meter is a standard 1 milliampre full scale deflection guage calibrated to read temperature. The probe is made of two dissimilar metals that generate a DC current proportional to it's temperature exposure. Type "K" thermocouple wiring is a red wire, and a yellow wire. It is readily available from McMaster-Carr in your neck of the woods. The length is not important as it is a series connection and only has to reach your point to point mountings. The kits you purchase are generic to fit most any vehicle and too much wire is not detrimental to usage. Rob

I have an aftermarket cruise setup for my B61. It uses a driveshaft mounted magnet, and a pickup module to sense driveshaft rotation. The control box will mount to the dash (or wherever is chosen). I think I gave about $175.00 for mine with some of the extra "bells and whistles". It would be quite difficult to make a factory cruise setup from another vehicle work due to computer interfacing, but it could be done. I will look the brand and vendor that I used, all I remember is that it came from someone that caters to the street rod crowd. Rob

Hey Barry, how about starting a forum that deals with history of a particular truck? What I mean here is, most persons who enjoy old trucks have a story behind them, or what they like about them. My particular story is that I have never been a truck driver, or worked for a trucking outfit at all, yet I own nine trucks in total. My interest in them comes through my grandpa (now passed) that had strong preference to Mack. The particular white single axle Mack B61 that I am restoring will be marked in "Monsanto" colors upon completion to appear as one of their trucks did in the mid 1960"s and hopefully be "period correct". He ran the shipping department at the "Queeny" plant in St. Louis for many years overseeing all phases of outgoing and incomming goods. Maybe some from that area remember white B models with a big orange letter "M" followed by "onsanto", partially set into the hind leg of the "M", and St. Louis, Mo, on the doors. They always pulled van trailers that were white in color. I also own the "AB" that was grandpas' when it was new. He worked at International Shoe Co. as a young man starting by "sweeping the floor", and later graduating to hauling leather "trimmings" from the boot plant to other areas by mule train. When they "upgraded" to trucks, he was assigned a new Mack AB dump truck. Eventually, ISC upgraded to trucks with closed cabs, and grandpa bought this "AB" truck from the company as he was the only operator since new, (It is an open "C" cab). This was in 1933 and the great depression was just getting into full swing. He then transferred to hauling finished products to Chicago via US Rt. 66 in a new, (original "B" series) truck. I don't know which, and he couldn't remember, but judging from past pictures I have seen, I would say a "BM" series is about right with dual reduction rear. I remember him telling me how "excited" he was in those days because the truck had a heater!! Upon the outbreak of war in December, 1941, grandpa left ISC to enlist in the Navy as many men with Pride in their county did. After "boot camp" at Great Lakes Naval Station, he shipped out to the south pacific operating area via Pearl Harbor. I am not clear on which ships or battles he participated in as there was a lot of movement from ship to ship in those days as needed and he really did not talk much of military service. I do know he was a "machine gunner" on a destroyer at the battle of "Coral Sea". It is ironic that my Navy service was aboard the USS Coral Sea aircraft carrier that was named for this battle. This is one bit of his military service he would speak of at length with me. After wartime service and discharge in early 1946, he was offered his position back at ISC (with promotion) but he opted to go to work for the "chemical company", (Monsanto) across the hi-way on US Rt. 66 in the shipping department. Thus began a long (32 years) tenure. I can tell you that company "took care" of it's personell very well after retirement in those days. Well, there is part of the story that perks my interest in these "old junkers" as some around here call them. Every truck, and every person, has a story behind what interests them in the old trucks, and I would like to see some of those stories shared. I'm sure there is a lot more common ground than anybody thinks on the surface. I'm even including those that take to opportunity for "pot shots" against others. Personally, I don't see the need for that kind of behavior on this or any other forum as this should be a hobby for all to enjoy and meeting people should be a pleasant experience looked forward to. Best regards to all; Rob Swallows

Do you have any external signs of leakage such as oil or coolant trails? did you look around the base of the rocker covers, and jake spacers, along with the cylinder heads to block mating surface? Evaluate that you are not pressurizing the coolant system by having the radiator cap off when you charge the intake tract with shop air to about 35 psi. You very possibly could have the seal between the intake and exhaust side of the turbocharger blown with the expansion of the turbin housing due to heat allowing the leak. This in theory, could allow the intake pressure at cool temperatures, but allow rapid falloff of boost pressure when worked harder due to heat. The turbo whine tells me the turbocharger is trying to it's job well. Keep me posted with your progress. Rob

Hey ESD, believe me, no harm as I, along will all others appreciate someone taking the time for the research. It's guys like you, me, and several others that make this hobby great. Shame some just see profit potential. Thanks for your help, and time!! Rob

I may be a little "off base" here, but I don't think you would obtain anywhere near $7000.00 in usable parts sales from these two trucks. The trucks as you describe are for "parts only" and if a guy needed them, $1500.00 for the pair sounds about a fair price to pay, given the benefit of doubt. I'm like you, I don't sell anything, but I buy to use parts for my own restorations, and I feel someone is "off their rocker" with that kind of asking price, but that is only "in my opinion". Rob

Why would buying this truck qualify you as "stupid"? It appears that the unit has been maintained well, is decent to look at, and I don't feel out of price range for a good servicable truck, especially if you have a use it could fill. Rob

Thank you Chuck. I really don't use the truck very often, especially for demolition duty. I will go with 3/16 as per your reccomendation. Thanks again, Rob

Hi there, I've started cutting out the floor in my A-40 "Sheila" as it is really washboarded and holed by rust. I don't use the truck often to haul dirt or sand, but when I do, she earns her keep rather well. I've got a couple dozen loads to haul next week of broken concrete, (from the barn floor I tore down here) and a lot of fill sand and clean topsoil. This bed's inside dimensions are 7'X12' exactly. To reline the bed with A-36 steel 5/16" thick, weighs about a thousand pounds. Is this too thick, or thin? Is this mild steel tough enough for a few years of occasional use? The "I" beam crossmembers are about 12" apart also and they for the most part are very good shape. A couple are bent badly, and I will cut them out and replace. I would like to order plates tomorrow, so I'll check back for recommendations before then. Thanks, Rob

I suspect your condensor coil is plugging from the accumulation of oil in the tubes. A condensor coil, (heat exchanger) can be laid flat or horizontal if it has a oil drain line that connects to the receiver/dryer. The refrigerant pulses from the discharge (high side) of the compressor; This pulse "punches" through the receiver/dryer media causing the output from this device to be a "fog" of both oil and refrigerant. I suspect you have pooling of refrigerant oil in your condensor coil and that is restricting the flow to the evaporator through the expansion device. From your description of the symptoms, you are starving the evaporator of refrigerant. The amount of refrigerant that does get through the expansion device to the evaporator coil is doing it's job and readily absorbing heat from the conditioned air space. There is just not enough to do the job satisfactorily which is the case with a low charged system. Realistically speaking, the bottom of the condensor coils should be almost the same elevation as the receiver/dryer to facilitate the "running off" of oil. This is not always feasible, but within 6 to 8 inches will suffice most times. It sounds as if you have an extreme difference in mounting heights and you are trying to push this "fog" I mention uphill. As the refrigerant cools a bit after leaving the compressor, and with the friction of the oil on the inside of the tubes, you are probably getting "drainback" to the condensor and the result is the restriction or "pooling" that I mention. If you could stand your condensor upright about eight inches behind the cab and use one 16"-18" ducted fan to force air through the core, I feel your problems would be history. You will never get the "ram air" effect, but a proper ducted fan will work wonders and there is enough airflow available in this given space. It also would not be overly difficult to fabricate an aluminum, or fiberglass "chin scoop" to grab some of the air that passes under the truck during normal operation. This could be painted to match the cab and depending on your tastes, would have a nice appeal. If you still run into difficulties, stop by my place on your trip to Peoria as I'm 20 miles west on Rt. 116 in the town of Farmington, IL. Rob