Rob

Well it looks as if I'll finally have some time to work on at least one of my trucks for the time being. The cab comes off tomorrow, and goes to the bead blaster on Tuesday. I will have my rotesserie (sp)? finished before it comes back the next week. Some of you may remember this starting from a couple of years ago when it was initially torn apart. Hope I can get some decent hours to work with it this time. Rob

I aint no queer, but I think the truck is more attractive, and has substance. Rob

Naw, in all honesty, she is, and has been my best friend for a lot of years. Her sense of humor matches mine. I think we'll be alright. The life insurance discovery however, is true. Thanks for the kind words. Rob

Mack CF, this sounds like a welded set of contacts someplace. Could be the series/parallel switch, or the regulator assy. I would undo the "BAT" terminal from the regulator and see if the problem persists. If so, take a cable loose from each battery (one at a time) and check for voltage depletion every couple of hours. An internal shorted battery usually is abnormally warm to the touch. I would lean on the regulator first. Rob

The springs that are currently installed on the truck were specific to tractor usage. I would assume the torque link to the front spring hanger is to limit axle wrap, or walk in tractor usage, as all of the cargo weight is not on the suspension, but I am not quite sure. The second set of springs you mention are for platform type truck usage, ie strait truck where the cargo weight is all on the trucks suspension. I have both styles and I'm familiar with both. Rob

I believe it to be an "E" with "A" sheet metal. It has no vent windows in the doors, no cowl side vents, "E" model type speedometer, and the headlamp mounting stantions do not look to be in the proper perspective for an "A" series. Rob

I also appreciate the kind words Fred; I'm still on the "IOU" side of things though!! Rob

I've always measured from the centerline of the front hubs, to the centerline of the rear trunion mount. That is the center of the distance between the two rear axles. Rob

I know that Borg Warner Turbo Systems did own Schwitzer but am not sure about that any longer. I'm not that versed in turbocharging and was wondering about interchangability between brands. On another note, how far is Appleton from Sheboygan? I've got a generator school at the Kohler plant and will get into that town about 6pm or so on Monday and will leave on Friday. If it's not too far, maybe we could meet someplace? Rob

Herb, you mention an A/M turbocharger in your post. I'm curious, did you mean supplied by other than a Mack dealer, ie: Napa, Carquest, etc. or some other brand like a rebuilt Garret when you had a Schwitzer? Thanks, Rob

Reasoning that you got the largest chunk of money for your sale and could write the balance off as a loss, I would make him aware that you are going to keep the folks in the truck clubs advised of the transaction so any others don't deal with him. Of course it is only fair to give a timeframe to work with, and then post the name first, make him aware that you have, and post their contact telephone number at a later date. This happens only if the balance is not paid within a reasonable time frame. "Good deals", or access to parts get scarce when somebody is into screwing over those that try to help. I don't think many on this board would enjoy getting ripped off trying to help someone out. An example is Good Ole Sarge. I seriously doubt anybody would sell, or deal with him that is involved in the truck boards; But he is too ignorant to realize it. If you handle it right, this guy will be in the same boat. Remember: One lies in the bed they make. Rob

Hey Tim, your A-54T is back on Ebay. Jacob could not afford to restore it as planned. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1953-Mack-A...043792852QQrdZ1 Rob

Hi Rod, I've got Air-O-Matic steering on my "yard dog" and it does not present a problem of running low on air to me. The truck steers fairly easy without the air pressure built up, and I've never ran low on air backing into anyplace as of yet. Most that I've spoken to that have had issues are running a fairly long wheelbase tractor and getting into tight spots. Overall, I'm happy with the system. Rob

Hey Barry, are you able to obtain, and how expensive are new replacement air tanks for B models? I noticed one leaking on the "yard dog" last evening and if not really expensive, I'll replace both. Thanks, Rob

Actually, The only one...... Rob

I'm not going to have a Luberfiner and the charge air cooler is on the driver's side. It will use a "ducted fan" to force air through the core. I haven't quite figgered out where I'm going to get the cooling air for the core yet but am "toying" with using the cowl vent panel for an air scoop. Rob

I wonder if any of you guys have a problem like this: My wife (who dislikes my Mack trucks) and who has stood by me through good and bad times, who has helped me plan and build my first auto body shop, and was there to help erect the new 12,000 sq. ft shop, has recently discovered through our life insurance agent that I'm now worth more dead than alive!! Although she has threatened to kill me for 20+ years, I now have a little more to be concerned with knowing she is "armed" with this information. I wonder how I will sleep tonight....... Rob

Can't make any money with a broken Peterbilt, or Kenworth; So I expect he spends every waking hour fixing those. Rob

Give these guys a try. They are building the charge air cooler for my B-61: www.qst-corp.com. Rob

I have seen and repaired both in the shop. I have purchased an electric kit for one of my B models as everything is quite compact and I can run the wires for the motors on the back sides of the lower door hinges (out of sight). Also, they can be overridden if a motor fails by "popping off" an escrutchen plate by hand, and placing a window crank on the shaft. Quite simple and foolproof actually, and the finished look is nice. Rob

This may seem to be a somewhat "ignorant" question but I would like to know why the OEM's and aftermarket do not use oil bath air cleaners any longer. They only worked well for something like 80 years or so. Are replaceable paper elements that much better? A quart of engine oil is still much less expensive to replace than the filter elements of now a days. I am discounting the cost of labor at a truck repair facility of course. Rob

Garrison still manufactures what you will need if you have a spare $1700.00 or so. This assumes you would want all new parts. www.garrisonmfg.com is their web site, and ask for Jake. A less expensive way that would take quite a bit of fabrication is to use an R model steering colume, and an integral power steering gear from a larger Louisville style Ford chassis with the steering gear inboard of the frame. You would also need to fabricate an adjustable drag link to connect the pitman arm and the spindle arm together as the joint end sizes will be different. Then of course, you would need a pump, reservoir, and associated lines to make everything complete. The Ford steering gear that I have seen used in a similar application had a longer sector shaft and therefore did not mount directly to the frame, but bolted to an adapter that bolted to the frame for proper spacing. This would not have worked with a later style engine that has the starter on the upper left, or below driver's feet due to interference. Are you sure your front end is not binding someplace or has dry parts? I can steer my B61 single axel fairly easy sitting still, and use the palm of my hand if barely moving to turn. Rob

I can't say I've ever been around an E9 Mack engine but most speak favorably (except for parts) of them. My wife has seen many broken 34XX series crankshafts though, as she is directly involved with Cat warranty issues at the manufacturing level. I can tell you they are not inexpensive on parts either!! Rob

I've got a 12V71TT that I removed from service on a genset. It currently is set at 580 hp @ 1800 rpm with twin turbochargers, and adaptable exhaust manifolds that I could turn around for truck use. My question is this, I'm wanting to install this into some sort of Mack chassis but I have no experience with diesel trucks other than a B model, so what chassis will allow enough clearance, and allow a large enough radiator for cooling? I plan to show and haul my B61 tandem tractor, and my AB dump most of the time, but the truck probably will not get much more use than this. I know this engine well as I had maintained it the last 20 years it was in service at work and it is sound. What do you think of an RTO 910 transmission behind this engine? I have one that I rebuilt a couple years ago and tested in a B61 (replaced with a triplex), awaiting some destination. Hope I don't annoy anyone with the questions as I've probably asked some of the same ones in the past but can't remember. Funny how the mind slows with age. Rob