sdthoren

This is likely a newer version, but if you find a control module in a junkyard, may be able to adapt it. KYSOR ALARMS SERVICE AND INSTALLATION.pdf

I think that is an example of an AI generated description. Flowery words and it doesn't quite capture the details correctly.

I have a western RWL766 Super Liner I with a steel front section and aluminum frame. Can't get pics to attach, but can get some if needed.

Seems like the CPL (control parts list?) is a key piece of info that can narrow some of those details. I have an older cpl book, been a while since I looked at it.

OK, thanks...looking for the lower right front fiberglass piece and grill parts in that area as well.

@The Rubber Duck 006 Curious if your boss is interested in selling some of the MH cab parts? If so, I'm looking for trim piece around the shifter, center console on top of dash, HVAC controls plate, center vent assembly (including shroud behind dash).

Thanks guys - halo test was good, although with the extended oil change setup, there's a lot of oil there! Break over spring didn't have any slop - directly working the lever (vs linkage from pedal) didn't indicate any dead spots where the spring wasn't tight. I didn't work on the truck much since Friday. I'm trying to minimize any low rpm/idle time on the engine as well (due to unknown engine break in after in frame). So I'm gathering troubleshooting ideas to maximize benefit of run time. Chasing some cooling system issues as well. Lot of reliability things creep in when a truck sits for several years (or a decade!). Thanks again for all the advice and input!

All right, all six injectors checked out/cleaned up/corrected. Fuel inlet tubes 4, 5 and 6 "adjusted" to line up correctly on the pump. Definitely plan to replace them, they were in rough shape before my work over, they certainly aren't any better now... Truck does run a LOT better with no fuel seeping out turbo/exhaust connection. Still have the surge right after start up, even before it gets warm - fjh and/or jojo, is the throttle lever breakover spring shown in the photo? I'm not counting out a worn or sticky governor though, it sat for a number of years. Will try your idea of getting the truck unlevel and see if the surge goes away h67st. The truck supposedly had an in-frame done and what looks like new heads. Ran like crap and prior owner started to work on it, but didn't get it done. So I'm unraveling some of the history, but concerned a break-in was not done and that I might wash down cylinder walls. Going to check if any local shops can put it on a dyno - I don't have a trailer/load to put on it for a proper break in.

Thanks guys, seems I'm battling a couple problems here. Going to verify injectors are decent (1), find new/used tubes or "adjust" existing to fit correctly (2), and then (3), see if my surge problem is still present after that. Kinda surprised it was running with that drastic of timing problems on cylinders 4-6!!

I took a picture and did some markup to help show what I'm talking about, although you are tracking jojo. I've got injectors 1-3 at the shop getting pressure/pattern checked, so the tubes are loose at the pump. It's the 4-6 positions that are definitely hand bent. It appears my turbo comes out straight, others seem to kick up and have more room underneath to run tubes. I attached a pic of an E6 4 valve from the interweb (although you can't see turbo well in my pic). Thanks, Scott

I picked up a 1984 Mack R model with an E-6 needing some attention. The injection nozzle fuel inlet tubes between the pump and injectors 4-6 were out, along with the corresponding injectors. The part that has me puzzled was that it seemed the inlet tubes were bent in such a manner that the sequence at the pump, from front to back was line 1, 2, 3, 6, 4, 5 (vs 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6). It has a UTDS / Bosch / AMBAC PLM Model 300 injection pump on it. Did somebody mess with this thing and bend lines all screwy? Seems odd the tube/line sequence would not be 1-6 front to back on the pump. I had it running that way, but was pushing a lot of fuel out the exhaust. It also had a 45 second interval where rpms would drop way down, then pick back up (sticky governor after sitting a number of years)? Thanks in advance for thoughts/advice.

I knew I had seen that truck before - http://www.steelsold...920-hybrid.html

Looks like a Bentz conversion crew cab. My Schalbe conversion crew cab runs just fine with an 8.3L ISC Cummins in it. Let us/me know if he's gonna scrap it, I've had a blast with mine! Since this is the Roasted Peterbilt Owners post, figured I would chime in with my dirty little secret! Here's my 2000 Peterbilt model 330, 8.3L Cummins, Allison MD3060P automatic transmission, and a Western Hauler bed for towing Momma's little home away from home! Bob's misfortune could be a nice twin for mine with a little work (and a Cummins to replace the "scaterpillar"!). Let us know if he's getting rid of it Rob, I might be interested. Scott

If I remember correctly, that truck was for sale by a museum in California for the price of $10k. Motor was running but stuck at the time of the ad (probably wouldn't take much to get free). I was contemplating the possibilities of a crew cab mack truck, but never shelled out the $$$$$$. I agree, nice looking Mack! Scott