Rob

I agree Glenn. The injection shop I'm working with does not have the correct adapter to "spin" this particular pump. If it still presents any problems upon reassembly it will come off and go in the mail to another shop I've spoken with. Thanks, Rob

I can sure see how that would be a problem. Before pulling the governor assy. from the pump, I viewed the area with a small inspection mirror, (lighted) and then squeezed the arms of the yoke together just enough for the "doglegs" of the yoke arms to barely disengage the racks. It will probably be a little more difficult to reinstall so I will enlist a third hand via my daughter. I also noticed the thrust/roller bearing is a little notchy in operation so I have ordered another to be on the safe side. This should be in on Monday and I hope to reinstall the parts early next week. I'll try to get some pictures up as I'm sure others have never seen the internals to one of these either. Thanks again for the help!! Rob

Well, curiosity got the best of me and I pulled the governor from the back of the pump without removing the pump from the engine. Really a simple little contraption but took some engineering to make work. Long story short is that $65.00 bought me new bushings, shafts, seals and gaskets, springs, and a good set of installation and calibration proceedure(s) from the local fuel injection shop. Along the same lines as Michael had mentioned; I put the front axle in a ditch out front of my shop and the truck ran very smooth, and stable, without fluctuation at idle. I was surprised how smooth it actually is. It accelerates very well but at 40 MPH, it is hard to keep in one lane. The tie rod ends, and drag link are shot, shot , shot. Since this truck will ultimately end up with my detroit engine, I really don't want to sink a lot of money unnecessarily into this V8. Appreciate all the advice!! Rob

Hey Fred, Let's put a positive spin onto this one because aluminum scrap is at an all time high!!!! You even have a decent loader tractor to help shove it onto your trailer, Haaah, Haaah!!! I also know and believe you have a good one there; After a little beggin, pleadin, and most of all apologizin for your ways, all will be just fine. (At least that's the way it works with me). I may be around to assist in the driving if you need it. Rob

I'm getting ready to swap out my two stick six speed for a Roadranger 13 speed (RTO12513) and don't want to use the Mack transmission as a core if someone may be able to use it. I don't really feel the Mack trans would work well behind my Detroit engine too well. The donor transmission is from a Mack Superliner and will be complete with everything needed for the swap. There is nothing wrong with the Mack transmission that I know of other than the shifter assemblies could use a little "tightening up" but is very useable as is and does not howl, or hop out of any gears. Rob

I spoke with a gentleman referred here and he was very much aware of this problem. I'm going to pull the pump and nozzles and get them sent off to be done right. I don't need problems in the future!! Thanks, Rob

In my absence I'm deploying several of my "spies" to intercept and acquire good parts that come cheap!! Actually, my wife has discovered my last Mack acquisition and "the boys" are in jeopardy at this moment. She mentioned something about needing to "test out" the new Ginsu Knives. If the cause is lost; May have to regroup and say "Screw the Cubs game". Hope to meet all of you some time. Rob

Quite Possibly. "Jay" lives there, or so he did. Rob

You bring up a valid point there Doug. It requires thought. I've been married so long the "boys" don't get a lot of usage either; Although, I've never had an interest in "singin saprano" so I think I'll keep em!! I'll be there next year with a couple of trucks, hopefully Rogers' show also. Rob

I took the Hi/Lo shift cylinder apart today and the piston, (aluminum) is scrap. The sealing rings finally gave out not allowing proper travel for the shift fork. This would not reach the neutral gate to allow the reverse gear to engage. Parts are on order, truck is locked in high range and is usable until the weekend when all the parts will be in to repair permanent. Thanks for the help guys. Rob

My son bought the family Cub's tickets for the home game the same weekend; If I go to the game, I can save my nuts...... Tough choice. Rob

I use a four ton porta power with a "wedgie head", (spreader jaws bearing on both rim lips) to pop the outer dual wheel loose, and then a torch assy. if needed on the inside rim as mentioned. I don't like to paint unless I have to...... Usually, when the outer is popped off, the inner is much easier to remove at least in my limited experience. Rob

Thanks Jeff, I assume these shift cylinders are of the single acting type with a spring inside to force retraction. If the vent is plugged as you suggest, then there would be a problem most definately. The truck operates at the landfill quite regularly so this is a very viable thing to look at. Rob

Hi Trent: That is close to the same advice that I had rendered to the operator. With the engine off and shifting the air splitter, one can hear things trying to operate as they should. There is no sudden rush of air escaping the system and soft clunks can be heard inside the transmission. The owner was going to pull the floor pan in the cab this weekend to gain access to the top of transmission, and both shift cylinders. The problem (to me at least) appears to be blown "O" rings in a cylinder, or a bent/worn shift fork and /or shift rails. It also appears that the problem came on suddenly, and there was no lead up or prior warning. Thanks, Rob

That's how I do it Chuck. Use a spray foaming window window cleaner for a lubricant. I don't use wire but rather a length of clothes line for the pull to fold the gasket over and into it's locking position. Rob

A friend of mine stopped by the shop tonight wanting to know if I had any advice on the problem with his air shift six speed trans. With the air built up you can select the low range and sometimes you're in low, sometimes you are in direct. Reverse seldom seems to be selectable. With the engine shut down, and the shifter in the neutral position, flipping the button gives the seemingly appropriate sounds from the air shift cylinders at the back of the transmission. Every now and again, reverse will fall in and you will have all five speeds. If the splitter is shifted back to neutral along with the shifter handle then both put back into reverse, it is probably going to move the truck forward when you let the clutch out as reverse takes several times to get in. The truck is a DM series, (1986) with a 300+ engine, and is a roll off truck. It has seen some severe duty through the years and runs very well. Any ideas?? Thanks, Rob

I agree Fred, it is a damn nice trailer. In fact, since I'm such a nice guy; I'm gonna let you use it a bit longer!! Tell John that after seeing the IH, I'm gonna start pressing him to get her going!! Rob

Thanks David. The oil pressure is never below 35psi at 400 rpm, and is about 75-80 psi at 1000 rpm. Rob

My first "R" model truck had both lower saddle caps broken from lack of torque on the ubolts. They were aluminum. I use a 1" drive impact on the nut and finish, (by hand) with a torque multiplier. Tight, but even is the key. Also, definately check the wear pads, (welded to trunion tube) for very little side to side play. The trunion tube keeps the tandem centered, (side to side) under the truck and if worn will be very noticeble during turns when loaded and tire wear will be pronounced. Rob

Rather than go through all the frictional losses and maintenance/upkeep on such an apparatus; My thoughts would be to acquire a 6V92 Detroit with right hand rotation, (ie reverse), (ie bus application, and very common) install a "Rockford Clutch" assy, (also ready available) and go that route with or without gear reduction for the proper rotational speed. This assy. could be mounted onto a portable trailer, or a frame extension to your truck to eliminate the need for two separate pieces of machinery. There are many more options out there, this one took me no thought. Rob

I put my trust in the Ole Dodge. Towed my 18,340# "wonder truck" 262 miles home from southeast Indiana. Rob

Hi Michael, I had never thought about the governor being in the mix. That would make sense as the fuel rack could likely be pushed and pulled due to flyweight(s) not being stable because of wear. The injection pump looks just like a small V8 with a "valley" in the middle of the pump towards the front of the truck. The rear (governor) looks almost the same as an American Bosch, or AMBAC pump on an inline engine. It just bolts to the rear of the pump housing just as the inline engine does. Thanks, and I'll keep you posted. Rob

Here is a new dilema for me. I've never been around one of these engines until now. It starts and idles for about a minute just short of perfect. This is either hot or cold, but after a short bit of time the idle speed varies up and down between 400-650 rpm consistently. It will probably do that all day if left alone that long. If the engine is manually held at a high speed, (say 1000 rpm) and then let back to idle, the engine seems to want to run at about 700 or so rpm for about a minute, then back to the varying idle once again. I have also noticed tonight that when the engine is rapidly revved from low idle by floorboarding the accelerator, the engine seems to have a lazy cylinder. I really can't call it a miss, but at least one cylinder seems to be a bit weak. This of course is just assumption. I will in the near future run a compression check on all cylinders to verify this assumption. I'm going to change all the filters within the next week just before the compression check to have a valid baseline to start with. Would a leaking/dripping injector cause this problem, or does it sound more injection pump related? Regardless, if the compression check is good, the problem would have to lie within the fuel system. I do not suspect air entrainment as the engine does not even roll the cooling fan over a compete revolution before starting. Thanks, Rob

The strange thing is that so many truck owners willingly participate in the creation of their own financial demise. The auto body repair industry participates the same way. There are many shops in this area that willingly negotiate their repair rates for both body and mechanical repairs. As the business owner, I experience the true cost of doing business, ie; In order: 1: Labor rates/payroll, 2: Health benefits/insurance, 3: Real estate and associated business insurance, 4: Depreciation and equipment wear/replacement, 5: Maintenance and upkeep of real estate equipment/facilities, and, 6: Failure under warrenty replacement/repair. To further this expanation I will be a bit "Open" with a couple of things. 1: The dead expense cost on my 7000 sq. ft. autobody shop including mortage, taxes, insurances, telephone(s), internet access, (a must with collision estimating software) currently runs at $156.00 per day. This cost is absorbed by the business before the first light switch is flipped, the first penny for wages is paid, or anything at all is started. Also consider that the shop is open five days per week, and these costs are absorbed seven days per week. This is why the production workflow of five manhours per work day just covers the "dead" expenses of operation. An additional one manhour covers the utilities consumed, leaving a balance of two manhours to eek out some kind of profit. The margin for profit is increasingly shrinking. 2: With being a collision repair facility, the shop rates are set by geographic area according to the major insurance carries in the respective locale. Currently shop rates are at $48.00 for body/paint and collision for automobile and light trucks, $55.00 for medium and heavy trucks. Frame rates are at $55.00 for automobile and light trucks, $62.50 for medium and heavy trucks. The material rates are currently at $26.00 per hour and have been for over a calender year, (despite a 157% increase in material cost to shops) and are reviewed annually in July. As one can ascertain from the above figures: I, for one, cannot afford to reduce or restructure my shop rates and stay in business. There is always someone somewhere that will do the work at less cost claiming to match quality and customer satisfaction; I'm not ashamed to tell a prospective customer to "take it where they feel comfortable with". As a shop that prides itself on a reputation of high quality workmanship with a very low failure ratio, I will not negotiate with anyone on my shop rates. If truck drivers, and service providers were willing to assume this same stance, rates would be consistent and where they belong. I can only assume that it is difficult to base trucking rates when fuel costs have doubled at the pump, and negotiate your fees just to keep your truck running. Although some money is better than no money, operating at a financial loss is no good no matter how it is sliced. I've never been a truck driver, so I have no "hands on" experience. The trucks I own are solely for pleasure. It all started with Tonka, and my grandpa's trucks, (Mack, of course). Rob ps: Way off topic I know, but I'm sure you'll get the gist.

Hi Chris, I agree but $350.00 is a bit steep for a flywheel housing!! Thanks, Rob