Rob

Hi Glenn, I've got a class scheduled for early next year, (tentatively) in OKC. I'll stop to chat some weekend should you have time. Rob

Called my favorite truck parts supplier today and ordered a new heating element, purge valve kit and an ancillary parts kit, (whatever that means) to rebuild the AD-2 dryer. As others have said, that is a good unit. I'll let you know how it goes. Parts man tells me that the heating element corrodes inside the housing and most times to extract it, has to be destroyed. I'm going to replace it regardless due to no history and age. Thanks again for all the help. Rob

I've never been around a waukesha engine that would fit under the hood of a truck. Quite a bit larger, yes. I've had two 351 V6 GMC engines, and one 305E V6. I currently have an EN377 Mack, and an RD-401 IH. I agree they have a sound all their own. I particularly like the sound of a flathead engine as it is from a bygone era. Rob

Here are a few pictures of my RL-755 hood panel.

Thanks to everybody for answering. I've never seen one like that and did not know what to ask for. It does seem to work but the bleeding problem needs fixed. I go to move the truck after shutting it off for 15 minutes and have to wait for the air to build back up to release the brakes. The air compressor does not appear to pass oil at all, if fact it looks rebuilt, but I don't know. I bought all new chambers, (four type 30/30 spring brake, two type 20 for the steers) and a couple of quick release valves for the rears. If I get the dryer repaired/replaced, the brake system should be good. I'm getting anxious to start driving this beast!! Rob

Since we're on the subject of air dryers: I've got this air dryer on my truck and don't have an idea as to what series it is other than Bendix. It does not stop bleeding air until the air compressor kicks in to make more air. The air bleeds down from the reserve tanks, (both of them) and sets the brakes within 10 minutes when the engine is not running. There are no leaking fittings. I've got all of those stopped. Thanks, Rob

Hey Herb: My RL-755L has the hood that is displayed in the last picture. How common was that? I've never seen another long hood truck with it. I've seen several of the "Econdyne" series R 600 trucks with that hood. My R-795 is the standard long hood that is flat in the middle as all of the other R models I've seen. Rob

Now there is some good news!! Sure glad it was something simple even though difficult to locate. Rob

I can believe that Adrian. Trucks and automobiles produced for export must comply with the destination country's mandates. Your truck being marketed outside of the USA very well could be equipt with hardware that was mandated changed in the USA. We have safety issues out the ying yang here. Both my 77, and 78 have the new style latches. My 73 also had them but they were in place prior to my ownership. Rob

Trent, I think, (but could be wrong) that the new style double pawl locking set was mandated for the 1973 model year. I remember when I was a teenager, (many years ago) retrofitting the older style latches to the new style. It would have been about that timeframe. Rob

I would not disagree with anything said so far. I always tend to be a little "leary" of unfinished projects such as something with new paint, and missing small items. This can be indicative of someone in over their head, or loss of interest due to timeframe and/or monetary obligations. The ornamentation will be very expensive to acquire if it is totally missing. This truck, (to me) appears to be dolled up for a quick sale with the classic "Dupont Overhaul". It is also located at a dealership of sorts. A person that wants to sell something that they have a personal interest in goes out of their way to inform you of what the truck looked like before the paint was applied, and why it was repainted. They surely would not want to market the item missing a lot of the small parts. Even poor originals are a postive selling point and beat nothing. The ad as I remember lists nothing about any missing parts. Looking at the pictures of the truck posted, and thinking of the price asked for it: It would not be in your best interest to purchase this item without your own eyes on it, or someone trusted in the evaluation process. As an example: I charge $60.00 per 1/2 hour to evaluate used, or second hand vehicles for prospective buyers in my locale. Most dealerships and resellers do not like me straight out. I find problems, some intentionally hidden, some legitimately wear items. I then give the prospective purchaser a signed form of the evaluation listing all deficiencies found. Also listed are positive attributes. It would be prudent before laying down the funds, (and the prospective future funds to complete the project) to hire a third party inspector at a reasonable price to do the inspection if you cannot. If I were closer to this unit, I would "donate" the inspection to help support this hobby. Ultimately, the decision is yours. The asking price is not out of line if this unit is an honest truck, and it is what you are looking for. New paint can hide a lot of flaws to the untrained eye and I like to think my 33 years in the autobody repair business has taught me a couple of things. Best of luck with your decision! Rob

Wonder why in the hell someone installed older style doors on your truck? Rust possibly? You can modify your door with some skillful cutting of the "D" shape and the bolt layout (as can be seen from the picture(s) are the same. I do believe you would need to use the newer style pull rod and stiker plate on the "B" pillar to make it work. Those old round latch assemblies tended to round off internally after several years and presented the problems you speak of. You can purchase new parts for under $60.00 new. They can be acquired through Mack, (Preferably Watt's) if you go that route, or several aftermarket suppliers have the same new style latch available. If you get down my way in the near future, I'll help you. Rob

Which latch assy do you have Trent?

What, No Culture Club, or KC and the Sunshine Band fans here??????? And who could ever forget the "mesmerizing" sounds of the BeeGees? Simply amazing to me how many "Faggot Bands" there were out there that sold what passed for music at the time. Me, I have in my limited audio collection; Made in Japan, Deep Purple, Kiss, Alive, UFO, Strangers in the Night, Peter Frampton, Frampton Comes Alive, and of course, Bostons' first album. I just about forgot Alice Cooper, Greatest Hits. My wife says I have selective hearing. Funny thing is that she is the only thing I don't hear too good! Rob

Hi Paul, I'm only wanting to go with used parts as much as possible to keep the costs in reason. I don't require something new for my personal use. The trailer will only be used to haul and park my antiques on. I do want air ride so I can "dump" the air on the rear axle to save on tire scrub to prolong their service life. I may even design a lift axle as the weight will be minimal compared to capacity. I purchased nine 9RX17.5 lo boy tires from a tire shop where they were obsoleted. I do not have rims so Budd, or Dayton style hubs are not a factor as either will work. A friend of mine has a Muvall trailer and runs 8.25X15 tires and swears by them. Reluctantly, he has to purchase Korean manufactured tires as the size is obsoleted in this country, (for the most part). Running tube type tires never really mattered to me but I got these relatively inexpensively. If I could locate a furniture moving van with a sliding tandem, it would make a great donor for both a storage shed, and running gear. As I mentioned earlier, I've never seen one set up like this and don't know if it's a viable request. I've looked at all the usual places to find a used stepdeck or single drop trailer and the prices even for ones that are worn out seem quite expensive, (to me). I want something built that I can count on for 20 or so years given my limited usage, with a 25 ton capacity. I spoke at length with a manufacturer in N.C. and they would build the trailer for me it I supply the undercarriage. Time is an increasingly difficult commodity for me to find and I know this would take more of it than can be afforded. Thanks, Rob

Has anyone either seen, or heard of an air ride, drop frame van with a sliding tandem? I'm wanting to purchase a used lo profile sliding air ride setup for building a trailer. I could also use a bit more storage hence the request. I've never seen such an animal myself and do not know if they exist or not. Thanks for any input!! Rob

en welkom hoor!! Damn, that sure looks like it could be "loosely" translated into "And Welcome Whore", even though I know different. Nothing derogative meant here. Welcome to the site!! Rob

It is possible that Noid is referring to total toe in which 1/4" would be correct. I agree that a bad shock absorber could add to the dilemma if the problem is more pronounced on only one side. Worn bushings, and spring schackles can also play into the mix. Usually outside chopping on a tire can be traced to something worn, or loose. I would raise the steer axle off of the ground and support the tractor at the frame to let the front end hang free to shake and jack at different points to locate any loose or worn parts. Just some of my useless thoughts. Rob

Hi Herb, I was under the truck this afternoon and inspected the area(s) you advise. Fortunately, there is no fatique or damage of which you mention that I seen, and all bolts were tight and present. On the driver's side of the truck, the rearmost insulator rubber, (lower) is virtually non existent, with the forward insulator severely cracked and deteriorated. The upper insulators were also deteriorated severely, but there. Sometime this next week I will try to find time to install the new mount kit. Maybe this will stop the chattering upon releasing the clutch pedal when loaded. I would think that with everything mounted securely things would not have any movement. Rob

Hey there, thanks for the help. I was able to open the "cold storage locker", a.k.a. my brain, and found both kits. I had actually purchased these prior to owning either of the R models I now have, and thought they would work on a B model but they are physically smaller for that series. The part number for the complete kit of needed pieces is 204SX216. This is the complete kit including all bolts, washers, biscuits, and locknuts. I paid $22.97 for each kit on 7/27/2000. Probably a little more now. Rob

You are correct Thad. A diesel compression tester gauge is of a higher reading, (usually 1000 psi) also, as opposed to the gauge used for a gasoline engine. I'll post a picture of mine later this evening when I'm back at the shop. I paid 169.00 for a kit to do most heavy diesel truck engines by S&G Tools from a wholesale tool outlet about five years ago. It has about eight different adapters for different engines. Rob

Hi there, I'm wanting to chrome the valve covers on my ENDT 865 Mack engine and would like to borrow a set, (if possible) while mine are in the plating shop. I would be willing to bead blast and paint either mine that are in very good condition, or the borrowed set before returning them. The lead time for plating is currently four to five weeks and I don't want the truck down that long hence the request. If you are able to help, send me a pm as I check here several times per day. Thanks, Rob

Hi Herb, I was thinking along the same lines as you stated as far as the power divider releasing due to torque bind but wasn't sure if there was a disengagement spring or not. The one thing that was consistent with this tractor is that the rear rear differential did not slip one side or the other loose. Both sides stayed driving the tires like a posi traction differential. This tractor being an "oil field" spec unit, could have had some type of traction enhancement differential installed, but I have no proof, as the truck does not appear to have been built with one, (according to the line set ticket). Thanks again, Rob

This afternoon I wanted to test the power divider in my R model that has an air lock power divider. I nosed the truck up to a large tree, placed the transmission in lo lo, eased the throttle while releasing the clutch and the tires on both sides of the rear rear started to dig into the gravel driveway. I then engaged the power divider and repeated the sequence and again both sides on the rear rear went to digging, and the left side of the front rear also started digging. After flipping the dash switch to unlock, I again applied power and let the clutch out and the same thing happened with both rear axles. My questions are these: Does a power divider not release until the truck is driven for awhile after releasing the air pressure? Is it normal in a Mack differential, (drop in type) to power the left side wheels as opposed to the right on conventional, (single reduction) axles? Thanks, Rob

Hi Adrian, I don't know off the top of my head about the routing of the wires. The electrical print I have and sent a copy to you is for a Caterpillar engined truck so it does not list Dynatard as it is Mack only. From memory: Terminal 30 is constant DC voltage, and terminal 86 is postive DC voltage to the coil relay. I also believe that terminal 85 is ground, or earth. If the convention is correct when terminal 85 is grounded, postive DC voltage will be applied through terminal 87 will supply the voltage to the solenoids. Rob