Rob

Where did the air line(s) attach? Mine has no plugs, or open fittings anywhere on the pump. Rob

Having access to a spacer, or dividing head would be a must for accuracy. Masking plates would sure speed up the indexing. I would think that a horizontal milling machine would make short work of the external teeth needed. Do you have the capability of profile grinding for tooling? I'm not positive but think that straight cut teeth would suffice as there would be nothing driven. I'll put some thought to this idea and we'll further along. Removing the bezel from the old speedometer is not difficult, but time consuming. Take a good quality screwdriver and very slightly round the tips; Just enough that they are not sharp. Clamp the housing, (face down) into a soft jawed vise with just enough pressure to keep the housing from rotating, and begin to wedge the screwdriver between the housing, and the folded over bezel. Using just enough force to roll the bezel open about 25% of the needed amount to remove the housing, move your screwdriver about 1/32nd inch and do it again. Repeat this procedure until you are all the way around the bezel. At this point, start over, opening to about 50% of the needed opening etc. The slow, delierate movements will leave slight deformations in the bezel that will not be seen upon completion. This takes time, Do Not Attempt To Hurry The Process! When you have finally got the housing clear of the bezel, you will be able to see that the "guts" come right out with a couple of screws holding the assembly together. I used to get new bezels from an instrument parts supplier that is long gone. One of the jobs I had in H.S. was rebuilding/recalibrating gauges and that is the way we would separate them. The needle is a press fit. It is best to support the shaft with a set of side cutters, (dykes) and gently force the needle from the shaft with another tool such as a screwdriver. Once this is done, the face will come right off. Some SW gauges were riveted, some used jewlers screws to retain the face to the guts. Either way, they are easy to get apart. Now you would get to do the same with the new "donor" unit. It is much the same with the exception of having a circuit card instead of all those mechanical things. Remove the bezel, needle, and swap faces. While apart, be sure to clean/repaint, touch up the needed areas in the housing, face, needle, and wash the glass Also a good idea to replace the gasket that separates the glass from the bezel at this point. Reassembly of the bezel to the housing is also time comsuming with improvised tooling. Using your soft jawed vise, place the assembled housing into the bezel and with just enough jaw pressure to keep anything from moving, use a brass, or copper drift punch to start to fold over the bezel onto the housing. Again, only go about 25% per round to keep from breaking anything. This really doesn't take a lot of brute force to do so a light hammering is all that is needed. For final crimping of the bezel, you can use regular pliers with the jaws taped to avoid scratching or gouging the bezel, but I have a pair of vise grip sheet metal folding "duckbill" pliers that I had the correct curvature, (radius) cut into the jaws. Once set for the proper crimp, it is readily repeatable. I haven't worked in the speedo shop for 30 years and the supplier we used is long gone. I'll do some digging to see if I can get hold of just the movement and not have to buy a complete unit to destroy. Maybe save some money that way. If you do need to purchase new then speedometer heads are readily available over the counter. Just think, the second one will take you 1/2 the amount of time it does for the first! Rob

Hi Trent, the turbocharger is new as per the "moron" I purchased the truck from. I'm sure you know the deal there as I've posted it. I did have the numbers checked and it is correct for the engine. Only pulled one load with it and the boost was about 22-25psi under hard acceleration with an amazing amount of smoke, (much thicker than your picture). I've not checked into the nozzels or anything yet but the air filter element is new, and airways clear. The engine is loaded up from all of the idle time and runs very well when warmed up. It is damn near impossible to start at 30 degrees outside unless plugged in and then still takes nearly two minutes to hit on all eight cylinders. But it is very powerful when loaded! Of course I'm comparing to a END-673 in a B model!! I'm going to try to post some photos this afternoon if I can teach myself how to use the camera. Rob

I couldn't remember if the driving gear was a "crush", or friction type setup, or machined to the shaft. I would use a 3-5/8's speedometer "donor unit" and install your original face onto it, or the new "guts" into your old case. I've seen several electronic movements that would fit inside the original case. I think most any 270 degree movement would work adequately, and it could be biased, or slewed to read correctly. If you were to manufacture the correct gear for the output shaft with teeth, you could use a "hall effect" pickup to drive the new speedometer. The ones I use on gensets have an adjustment range of near 4 inches for depth, and are threaded full length. I drill the pilot hole aimed at the corresponding gear, counterbore a flat spot into the housing about 1-1/8" for the locknut to bear against, and thread the hole 3/4-16 to install the sender. Apply your 12VDC, (reference voltage) via the keyswitch, and use the remaining wire as an input to the new electronic speedometer. This would actually work pretty slick. The hardest part is getting the ratios within the window, (so to speak) of the adjustment capability of the new speedometer circuitry. Just some thought process need to be applied. I'll go further if you are seriously considering it. Rob

I just bought a new camera for the shop that takes movies. I'm gonna teach myself to use it and then get a video posted so everybody can see what this thing emmits from the stacks! Rob

Hey Larry, is there any chance you could machine a reluctor ring and shrink it onto the drive gear for the speedometer? Then you could use a newer style pulse counter type. It wouldn't be original, but would be accurate. I can't remember off the top of my head the tooth count you would need, but 8 thousand pulses per mile is very standard input to speedometers these days. Now Ford has to be 4 thousand per mile to be different! Rob

I agree but this is thick enough to thoroughly blacken whatever is on a trailer behind you. It would probably even make persons in a following car hack and cough! Rob

Hi Trent, it is a "V" style pump, but has no air lines in the front, or rear. Rob

Did Mack use a "puff limiter" on this engine? The engine runs very well with the pump governor (idle speed) recalibrated, but really smokes a lot when into the throttle. I've seen no air line as in an inline engine to the intake manifold. I keep the truck inside of my heated building and before starting the engine, use shop air to charge the tanks. That way I can start the engine as the overhead door is raising, and get outside before someone cannot breath. When the engine is warmed up at idle, a slight "blip" of the throttle sends a thick smoke cloud out of the exhaust. When accelerating, a thick, dual path of smoke remains behind me. There is a buildup of carbon soot in the stacks also. Do keep in mind the engine has not been "worked" in many years and has a lot of idle time on it. Thanks, Rob

Yes sir, Black smoke is synonymous with Mack trucks! My building is a bit larger than a car garage but two to three minutes and you are ready to open a door! Rob

I know of a guy that does the same thing you wish to. He installed a piece of vibration isolating stainless pipe and literally unclips from the upper cab bracket, and "folds" his stack down to fit into his garage. This pipe I mention looks like the flexible coupling used in the exhaust of front wheel drive cars with transverse mounted engines. It is very flexible, but expensive. Rob

This is probably one of those storys that is only funny if you were there.... My very first job was at a gas/service station, (remember those)?, and the small oil distributor that filled the tanks had a 66 GMC tanker with the V-12 GMC gas engine. It had a different sound. His bulk plant was about three blocks away as the crow flies, and about seven blocks by street route. In a weeks time, we would get three deliveries of 500 gallons of gasoline, a barrel of straight 30wt. oil, and a bulk load of 10W30, or 10W40 depending on season. This GMC tanker did not have a fuel tank that was used, it had a fuel line that was run to the tank on the back. Every time my boss would pay for gasoline he had to complain about paying for 500 gallons, but getting only 490 because that truck was sucking down his gas and it couldn't be proven otherwise! I once asked about gas mileage on that truck and if I remember correctly; Three to three and a half is what it typically acheived. That truck was finally retired in 1974. It still exists, but hasn't been ran in as many years due to the passing of the owner. Rob

A facility that I used to maintain the standby power generation at has an 855 Cummins engine that runs on natural gas. That is the only genset that when exercised, I would put plugs in my ears, and hand towels in my earmuffs! That engine is louder than the F-4's I deployed with in the Navy! Rob

I seen one of those 372 Peterbilts hauling a load of speedboats at the Goodfield, IL scales Thursday. It was solid red, very faded and flat, (like day old beer) but in nice shape. Even the aluminum wheels and tanks were flat. Hard to believe a truck that looks driven like that would haul six new, moderately expensive boats. Wish I would have had a camera. Rob

Thad, if you do that, anytime the temperature is below 32-35 degrees the heater will energize. The power wire only needs to be hot when the ignition key is in the "on" position. I know that is what you meant though. I make the same type of mistakes quite often! My air dryer was rebuilt with all new parts with the exception of the cartridge which is rebuilt. Any truck parts supplier will be able to help you with parts as this was a common dryer. Rob

I spent $94.00 rebuilding my AD-2 and that included heater, switch, element, and check valve. I removed the unit from the truck and it was easy to service. Rob

BUTT UGLY!!! Look at the Mack "A", and "E" model influence with the sculpting of the fenders. Maybe the second model year will have some improvements as I see where they are trying to go with this. Rob

I've never seen this done before but the "Bandag" retreader in my locale mounts up the casing after tread removal to find the light spot on a balance machine. I'm told he had the rim blanks balanced true for this purpose. He then marks the light spot, dismounts the tire, and retreads it placing the new tread seam just over the prior marked spot on the casing. The seam is a little heavier than the tread so it balances better. I've spoken with several persons that buy capped tires there and most are extremely pleased. I plan to also for my trucks. I don't remember anyone telling of a balance or hop problem at speed. Rob

I certainly understand mate. I've always liked the look of those trucks as the quad lamps are not common in the USA. Good job with the photos, they look great. Rob

That is an attractive truck. Would you happen to know how the quad headlamps are mounted in the Aussie trucks? Was wondering if the headlamp bowls are separate, or there is a factory produced quad assembly. Thanks, Rob

Is that a tractor that you have or know of, or a picture only that you have? Good looking unit, I like the "Roo" bar on the front and quad headlamps, and want to do similar to my R700. Rob

A guy in the next town north of me ran exclusively Mack for many years until he bought two new mid 90's Ch series with E7-400 engines. He does a lot of gravel hauling, and lowboy work for road building equipment. Neither of those engines made 250,000 miles without being overhauled. I really don't know what the problems were but I do know how he maintains his units. I do want to be fair and both of these engines were replaced with E6-350 series engines and they served much better. Both trucks are gone now, (one wrecked/scrapped) and the other traded in on a new Sterling, (the ultimate degradation). I do remember the wiring giving many problems as they seemed to be chasing "gremlins" quite a bit. I cannot speak for the E9 series as I've never even seen one myself. Neither do I hear very many people bragging on their E7 series no matter what the power setting. Damn government intervention hurt it. Sorry for the negativity. Rob

I'll be 1000# would be adequate for that application as there is not much weight. Most porta power pumps are rated at 10,000# for a 10 ton rating at the ram. Most, (like Blackhawk, Porter-Ferguson) can be turned much lower by an adjustment screw. You could use it as is if you didn't keep pumping when you got to the limit of cab travel. Rob

It is a remote reservoir and pump unit with a handle much like a hydraulic bottle jack minus the cylinder ram. Rob

If you are not interested in originality, plumb in a hand pump from a porta power. Be careful if you do this as the pressure is a lot higher. Some pumps have adjustable relief valves, some do not. Rob