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About 4020dt

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    Engine Started
  • Birthday 05/13/1942

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    Grain & Cattle farmer , John Deere tractors (4-6 cyl's not the old poppers) . tractor pulling , Chevy pickups and Mack trucks .

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  • Other Trucks
    1979 R685ST

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  1. Had that problem a few years ago with a '97 e7-427 with about 500,000 on it , after changing thermostat , cap and tanks noticed with a new clear tank bubbles were showing up long after shutdown thought it was too long to be a compression leak . It ended up being a bad compressor air pressure was going back through the collant line. We replaced the compressor problem solved truck now has 850000 still going strong
  2. I have a 1997 E7-427 with dynatard or whatever + the stealth exhaust brake . My son owned the truck before me , bought it around 500,000mi now has 775,000 on it . The whole deal has never worked good I think . Previousy I had a 1988 E6-350 4 valve with Dynatard it worked much better than this one . Between he and I the system has been worked on 3-4 times , o rings solenoids and a bunch of other things . Work was don at Mack dealership I really think they don't know what's going on . The exhaust part is working sounds like anyway , but the other part seems useless . Honestl;y I have little faith in the so called mechanics out there today seems they are all plug in and parts changers of course that's just my old timer opinion . My kids say I demand too much perfection , $100+/hr and price of parts how much should I expect .
  3. Are you talking about Midwest DS in Bollingbrook or Peru ? I've done buisiness with Peru and also before it got bought out by Midwest a couple yrs ago . They have done some real good work for me and some questionable work . I am pretty fussy about that stuff and am pretty knowledgable about this stuff . I have a 1997 CH E7-427 . Last winter after an unfortunate deal with Northern IL Mack , LaSalle , I took the truck to Midwest Peru , ended up getting the pump and injectors rebuilt . Had 29000hrs and 760,000mi and never been touched , does run better now , quicker to build boost and starts better . I tried to get them to make a 454 or 460 out of it but with all this electronic s!!t (sorry I,m old school) they can't do it . The unfortunate deal with NILM stemmed from a clutch replacement deal I posted it last spring on here . NILM is now part on the CIT group , the shop foreman and a couple others are now GONE from there !! By the way when I got it back from Midwest the valve cover gasket leaked and they cracked the hose outlet on the coolant expansion tank . Of course they said they didn't . Midwest in Bollingbrook is supposed to have a truck dyno I was thinking of taking mine up there this winter to se what its got or not . That's about all I can tell you about shops around here , myself i'm not impressed with any shop these days , farm equipment , heavy , trucks and cars for $100+/hr I except more than guessing and parts changers .
  4. They supposedly used my flywheel , he said it had been cut before and that was the last time it could be resurfaced . I told him to call me when it was all torn down and I wanted to see everything but nobody called . They do the resurfacing themselves but could have got mixed up . This one is a VMack , the inline pump with electronic governor control . The rpm pickup in the pump is suposed to be bad . He mentioned about the sensor adjustment . Thanks for the reply .
  5. Took my perfectly good running CH E7-427 to the Mack shop for a simple clutch job . 740k miles , had it for 4 yrs , know history of truck , came from this dealership new . Anyway , got the clutch done , machined flywheel , new rear main seal , changed seal on front diff output shaft and everything else seemed ok . $3500 and change later we head to the farm . Eight miles to home never went over 1500rpm bobtailing etc . Couple days later I deciede to haul couple loads of gravel , 15 mi round trip . Take off , get up to 18-1900rpm starts missing , cutout etc , start to wonder what's going on . Pulls good though up to there , 34-5 #boost going up hill . Get to stopsign , shift down , range and splitter in low , let out clutch , no go . They routed the air line to the stationary neutral valve right under the exhaust pipe , burned through left range go into neutral . They wanted to tow it , but came out and fixed it on sight . Next day I hauled the other load and took the truck back to the shop . Told them about the rpm problem and also the clutch brake wasn,t adj properly . Called me next day said truck was done . Said the tach sensor at flywheel was a little off on ohms reading but it worked and would probably be ok . Took off again , started cutting out at 17-1800 now and was worse than before . Got off at the next exit and headed back to shop again . They changed the flywheel sensor didn't help and really sounded worse , now it smoked and missed worse when you reved it . Next they changed out the sensor on the injection pump . That didn't work either , now they say the inj PUMP IS BAD !!!! That sensor was changed last July when the econovance solenoid was replaced . Now what I can't figure out is how a SUPPOSEDLY PROFFESSIONAL SHOP at $85/hr can really f*******p a really nice good old truck . Could they have shorted out something in the wire harness or something . I said what if a pump rebuild doesn't work out , we are at a stand still as or Fri PM . I'm not a proffessional mechanic but I have done lots of wrenching here , Chevy , Deere engine and trans , and I do know what's going on . I do know about inj pumps , the old mechanical inlines and rotaries ,been tractor pulling for 40 yrs . I think they MESSED UP . I'm going there tomorrow AM and try to keep COOL but it's gonna be hard to do . SORRY FOR THE RANT !!!!
  6. Have a '97 CH E7 427 , 18sp All Mack , 740,000mi . We've had it for 300,000 or so mi . Done for the season now and about due for a clutch . 75% use in construction and rest is for farm and most of that is pulling out of fields , grain bins or elevators. Every shop I talk to talks about a 1850# easy pedal eaton new or rebuilt for half the price . Are they on the right track or what other options do I have . I'm going to have the rear main seal changed and anything else that needs to be . It's a good truck and I'm planning to keep it for quite a while so I want to fix it right . Any input will be really appreciated . TIA
  7. I have a '79 237 , I think it's an ETZ not exactly sure , I can get the exact###'s , it is in the shop taking up space . Anyway it dropped a sleeve 7 years ago been sitting ever since . I bought another parts truck with a good engine in it . It is complete , turbo , inj pump , compressor etc . Ran real good prior , has been inside all the time . Any value to it ? it is time to clean out the shop . Any body need parts ?? Located in north central Illinois just off I -80 middle of the state .
  8. Does anybody know if there is a kit for this , used to be a kit called Cabmate but they tell me it is no longer available . Anyone have ideas or information on this ? Thanks for all .
  9. I just found this forum last week , the 9 speed was discussed a page or so back , I have a couple questions also . Here's my story : We have a 1988 R688 350hp 9sp 530,000+- mi , overall it is a pretty good old truck . Bought it in 2000 after our 1979 237 dropped a sleeve in the oil pan . We use it on the farm and son is now running it on construction . The range never shifted right to me or my son , would hang up going into hi once in a while and made too much noise to my estimation , course I was used to the old 2 stick 6sp . A year ago the 1st rev shift fork broke and due to timing I took it to my local Mack dealership . At the right time we could have fixed it or at least removed it and had it done . I have all the Mack manuals , in there it tells something about all the interlock settings etc . and all the updated parts for the trans . Anyway I told them to check all this out . They removed the trans , took the top off , put 3 new shift forks in , total parts was $800+ , labor $2000 . I thought that was pretty steep . They showed it to me , the clutches seemed to look ok to me and them too , they said that new clutch pack would be $2500+ . With only running 10-15,000mi/yr we thought we could get by with leaving it alone , just check the air cylinder and linkage . Well when we got it back it seemed to make more noise and hang up more often . Now what do we do? Is there an aftermarket source for these parts or are they available only through Mack?This winter when I have more time I can remove it and work on it . What does it take to convert to a 13sp Roadranger ? I have a line on one of them , neighbor has one that is behind a 400 Cummins , it is a RTO12513 , what else do I need to know about it ? I am pretty knowledgeable on John Deeres and other farm machinery but not really up to snuff on this stuff . I am open to all ideas , suggestions , other options or whatever . All replies will be greatly appreciated , Thanks in advance , Jim
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