Rob

I'm wondering what others think about doing away with the external mounted air cleaner assy, and replacing it with an underhood unit? The existing filter housing is only 16 inches in diameter so it could be used. I would also manufacture a fiberglass hood scoop about 4.5 inches in height, six inches deep, and 18 inches or so long for the fresh air inlet at the rear of the hood by the cowl. This air inlet would be ducted to the inlet of the filter housing through a fabricated air box sealing to the underside of the hood. I would also include a door for cold air, or underhood air for inclement weather operation actuated by stainless air cylinders, (Bimba). I'm wondering if this would be beneficial or worth the effort. If not, I'll probably have the retainer straps for the existing housing plated and paint the balance. It currently has a plastic ram air scoop, (Donaldson) on it. Thanks, Rob

I meant to update this site with an answer to your question but another "situation" came up at the shop and I neglected to do so. Old post Yesterday at 08:08 AM Reply #1 I installed eight newly rebuilt injectors into my R model a few days ago and last evening was the first time to drive it. The engine temp was right about 170 degrees or so, and the idle temp on the pyro was about 350. I decided to take the truck down the road, (minus the hood), and did full throttle acceleration from dead stop to about 78-80 miles per hour against the governor. The pyro never climbed above 950 and I'm wondering if this is normal, high, or low on the gauge? I did this on the return trip also and the engine runs so much smoother at idle it is almost a different engine. The smoke at idle is completely gone, but is definately still there while accelerating. I'm not really concerned about mileage as this is a "play truck" anyways, and the engine will be replaced with my Detroit in the future. I can't seem to let a known problem or issue lie unaddressed. Thanks, Rob

There should be a box of parts coming your way on Monday, or Tuesday. Been real busy and haven't had time to devote to the project for a few days. After 23 years of rotating shifts, I am starting a regular 7-3:30, (with emergency callback) 5 day workweek on Monday! Rob

I can't answer that as of yet. I had just got it running when the ordeal started. I will try to drive the truck over the weekend. It no longer smokes at idle though. Rob

Had a little "fun" last evening. I was moving trucks around the shop for the "spring cleaning". After installing my eight newly rebuilt injectors into the R-795's V8 engine, and installing the fuel lines, I started the truck after a little cranking and it runs much better now. Allowing it to idle, I then started the A-40, my skid steer loader to warm up, and one of my B models to allow the air to come up. I then pulled it outside via the back door to the shop and drove to the front door, and leaving it at an idle, jumped out, moved the A-40, parking it outside in the lot. I then moved the skid steer to drag two other trucks, (inoperable) to other areas of the shop to clean. While climbing out of the skid steer to chain to a truck I shut the engine down, (Cummins) and it was library quiet in the shop; What I mean here is there was no sound from the V8 Mack engine that I left running. My first thought was "ahh shit" I done run out of fuel. A quick look into both tanks confirmed my suspicion as they were both near dry. So I calls the fuel distributor that I use and he, (while I'm looking at a customer's car) dumps 50 gallons into the left side tank. Well the fuel pickup tube and return line is in the right side tank. While this itself is no problem due to the equalizing tube at the lower front of each tank, the valve leaks terrible on the left side when open! At today's diesel prices that is important to aleviate quickly. A quick gust of air line pressure and a shop towel quickly forced the fuel to the rt. side tank. I then had a helper shut the valve(s) back off. I will now get packing kits to repair the valves. Most diesels if run out of fuel and not tried to be restarted will crank for a little while and fire back off missing until the air in the lines is purged. NOT THIS ONE!! When it would not restart, I removed the filters, filled them full, reinstalled, and cranked over a series of half a dozen times till the batteries were down. I had removed the filters again only to find them full to the top. I then took the supply line loose from the gallery at the pump and cranked engine and after awhile, it started flowing fuel. After reconnecting this hose, and breaking all of the lines loose at the delivery valves on the pump, it still would not flow any fuel! Now I'm getting pissed as over two hours have been expended trying to get this SOB running again, and we are starting to lose daylight. At this point, (breathing fire) I tightened all the fuel lines back up, and had a helper put 60 psi into the rt. side fuel tank while I cranked the engine. It started without rolling over five time, and run rough for about 15 seconds and smoothed right out. I suppose the transfer pump is getting weak to pick up fuel from the tank and I plan to purchase a kit to fix that. The engine does not have a hand primer on the transfer, or lift pump. I've run a lot of diesels out of fuel through the years, and got many running that have set derilect for lenghty timeframes, but never had so much trouble as this one presented! That air pressure to the fuel tank trick worked pretty slick and I will commit that one to memory for future use! Rob

I put a reman master on a 1970 C-50 last week. I got the part overnight at my local Carquest, and the cost was $49.00, (shop cost). The wheel cylinders were the killer at $33.00 each and there are two on each wheel! Rob

Long ago I cut both Exxon, and Citgo, (Venezuela govt. owned, wholly) from the vendor list. Rob

Do not crank of move the engine while the pump is removed. It only will go on one way and if the engine is not cranked, or turned over, timing is not an issue. Rob

Remove all of the fuel lines first. Then remove the rear most bracket from the pump, then the three bolts that retain the pump to the engine. The pump will then slide to the rear of the truck with clearance from the compressor. You will probably need to "tilt" the pump upwards, and roll a bit at the rear but it will come out without much trouble. It is heavy so be properly braced. Rob

While I full well realize that "wedge" brakes were probably more troublesome than "S" cam type setups: There was a large concrete plant that ran exclusively White, Reo, Diamond Reo, and Diamond T trucks for many years. They always had wedge brakes. I went to high school with the shop forman's son and spent quite some time there. Can't say I remember the trucks, (over two dozen) were any more trouble than something with hydraulic brakes. Normal, preventative maintenance seems to be the key. Rob

Hi Adrian, there is no reason that moulding would not work and be weathertight. I've used that type many times. There is a non hardening bedding compound that should be used in both the pinchweld, and glass setting channels to ensure there is no leakage. Most times new mouldings will not leak as they are soft and supple but with age and shrinkage, there is a minor problem. This compound solves that. I get the stuff at my windshield supplier. Rob

That piece of widow retaining moulding does not use a separate "locker strip". With the kind displayed, you simply push the lower part under the upper part until is stays. Keep an eye on the "indented" edge of the lower part until it is hidden under the upper part. This type is not original to the truck. All "locker strips", or "beads" are mounted to the outside of the truck body for the correct moulding. There is no reason this type would not work with the exception of the divider post that separates the two windshields. I've seen a home made division bar solvent welded in the center that worked though. The original type moulding is not very expensive and I recommend it's usage. Rob

I am in need of a bracket that rivets to the fiberglass structure at the rear of the hood. This bracket is mounted to the underside of the hood, and the rectangular rubber pad, or cushion that is on the cowl bracket rests against this needed bracket when the hood is closed. Any help appreciated as I'm not having any luck locating what I need. The truck is a 1977 R795. Thanks, Rob

This fitment is common without modifying either the door shell, or the hinges, or both. There is no detriment that I see as the door skin/shell does compress the perimeter gasket for a seal to weather. All of my trucks are as you mention. Rob

My 64 B-61 snaps shut at 60psi on the air gauge without hesitation. Your hinges may need lubed also. Each shutter has a pivot point top and bottom that could bind. Rob

Justin: I don't want to seem forceful or anything negative but I don't hear you saying you have a good handle on what you are trying to accomplish with any of the systems you inquire about. It is great to ask questions and seek others experience but when you go messing with safety issues such as brakes, electrical etc. without a basis of knowledge in the systems you will most likely have problems. I can only speak for myself but I'm sure others would agree that there would be no enjoyment reading about someone burning their truck to the ground, or rear ending someone at a stoplight quite possibly hurting, (or worse) anyone oblivious to the subject, due to lack of experience on the owners/operators part. I am a semi professional mechanic/electrician by trade and believe me I do ask a lot of questions also. Like you, I don't want to make mistakes and my position on safety is taken very seriously. A lot of my knowledge is through training, studying, and understanding the information printed in technical manuals. I strongly suggest that you visit your local library, or ebay, and acquire a set of manuals for the truck and systems you are questioning. A very good set that is readily available through ebay, or other sources is Mack factory service manuals: TS-442 series. These manuals go into great detail in both theory, and repair/service proceedures and will help you immensly with your needs. I ask that you not take anything I have said as an insult as it is not meant that way. Your level of knowlege will increase if you have a basic understanding of what the component is, or does, before you attempt to repair it. Speaking for all of us here: We only wish you the best of luck with your project. On several occasions I have obtained much needed advice and guidance from persons here that have experience where I do not. This board is an excellent source of information and help if it relates to Mack trucks. Good Luck! Rob

Yes it is a big job not only in weight, but also the amount of hours spent getting everything to stay in place while it's support is removed. How about the amount of time it takes to get the holes drilled to locate the crossmembers properly? A mag drill is essential for this operation. Progress looks good at this point in pictures! Rob

Herb: You'd love this 1977 R model I've been working on... A real piece of work. So far, I'm up to 32 "Scotch Locks" replaced under the dash, hood, tail lamps, etc. There were splices, upon splices under the dash, and in the tailights area. I've also dug out at least two cans of expanding foam sealant, (the kind you use in your house to seal drafts) from under the dash, and where the floorboards join the cab side panels. None of this was difficult to fix correctly. Just hard to believe someone could implement such ignorance and plan to operate the truck as such. I think someone with a third grade education could have done better! Rob

No doubt Terry. Just a good opportunity for a publicity shot. I do remember the photo from earlier. Rob

Good shot Trent. I'm wondering if when it was discovered there was not have enough weight available with this setup, they staged the photo? of course reducing the elevation of the winch booms would lower the pulling angle. Rob

AGREE! I'm working at the airport this weekend so I won't get to be in the shop but tomorrow evening I'm going to run a compression check, (like I planned a few months ago) while the nozzels are out. I also pulled the lines from the pump and am going to look for a new set as these are really corroded in places. I'm thinking the structural integrity may be compromised from the pitted rust at the retention nuts, and routing/mounting brackets. As I was told, this truck had sat for 17 years in a yard before being worked with by the prior owner. Despite these minor "setbacks", it does have the foundation for being a good truck. Thanks, Rob

I pulled the nozzles out this morning and off to the pump shop I went. Not a single one of the eight was within spec. I don't recall how many were popping at under 3000psi but not one was suitable for reuse as is. Glad I parked the truck out of the way in the shop cause it will be about a week before they are done and come back. The spray pattern on four of the eight was for shit, two dribbled, one had a hole plugged solid, and one barely sprayed! I would assume that the engine should run quite a bit better next week without quite so much smoke. Hard to believe it ran so well as is. Rob

Well today I found out a few things. First off my engine is not original to the truck. I had my parts supplier chase down the engine serial number and it was fitted to a 1975 truck; mine is a 1977. The pump is also certified for a 1975 engine as stamped. It also had the "puff limiter" and "torque limiter" from the factory. The air cylinder is still on the trans, but the air line just hangs loose and unconnected. The injection pump has a plug in the end, (like yours) but I did not take it apart. The reversing valve, hose, and air cylinder are long gone. It is also stamped: PLE .857 which is the "puff limiter extension. The Mack service manual, (TS-442) has a very informative section on how this setup worked; Pretty slick for no electronics involved. I did make an appointment to have the injectors looked at on Friday. I will pull them out and they will look at them while I wait. I was surprised to see the "crack pressure" so high at 3850 psi. Most engines I've been around are at 2300 psi and lower. I really appreciate all the help with this thread. I probably won't install the "puff limiter" back onto the engine unless I can't get the smoke down by other means. Thanks again! Rob

Here are a few photos of the engine. I cannot find evidence of anything being removed by looking at the pump. Thanks Rob

I've got a TS-442 series manual that was printed in 1978, (the truck is a 1977) and will do some reading in it. I'm wondering if the timing retarder is a newer version of "Syncrovance" that the inline engines used when natural asprirated? Rob