gearbox

Company in Australia makes them, here is a link to their site http://www.hy-waysunvisors.com.au/products_sunvisors.html

I rebuilt my own with basic engine machining practices and it turned out great and I had a great sense of repairing it myself I got all measurements of the bendix web site down loaded as PDF but it looks like you don't need to any more

A lot of reasons could of busted the spring plate but most common would misalignment in the bellhousing or a spigot bearing related problem with input shaft possibly worn if you post some pictures might be able to help more, what colour is the dust that has collected around the spring plate. Was the flywheel machined correctly as it is something that gets overlooked have the rivetts pulled at all. I have also seen some that have been driver abuse which is always difficult to get a driver to accept as this is a problem in Australia with multiple combination trailer set ups when the driver is not careful from a stopped start. There was a local training organisation teaching to leave the line at 1200-1500 rpm have seen left front wheel 1 foot in the air followed by clutch plate failure, hope the first suggestion may help

I have seen this conversion in Australia but I thought they did it to fit 30-30 spring brakes to be able to get the trucks to stop better when a couple of trailers are connected

I had mine bored at the local engine machine shop and was able to buy conrods, pistons, rings, bearings gaskets and unloader valve kit. I also found I need the crank ground. The whole lot cost about $400.00 Aussie dollars. I have the satisfaction of knowing it has been repaired correctly should last well into the future as the truck doesn't do any serious work and I don't want to pull it off again as the steering box clashes really bad being right hand drive

It happens over here as well, just recently R700 was up for grabs and the guy wanted to much but was willing to send to scrap but wouldn't sell it for scrap value to me. Don't understand, shame freight is so expensive to Aus

Correct part for the Job lucky it was easy, not to turned into a mongrel breed

Looks good, sounds strong you should be proud of your work great job

Ditto, Cheers Gearbox

Some plastic or nylon has a braid in to resist kinking meets our standard in Australia but the cheaper non braid does not meet the tube is marked with a J no. from memory can't remember the no. and AS standard for our hose but rubber DOT hose needs to be used between chassis and axle where there is constant flexing and movement in suspension and steering Gearbox

The series 1 Jaguars had a fuel cooler on the suction side of the air conditioning system which is cool and we run A/C alot here Australia so if the truck is air conditioned with some fabrication you could make a fuel cooler that works when the weather is hot and when cold you wouldn't run A/C so the fuel cooler wouldn't work. the cost to run would be minor as you are using waste heat from A/C Just a Thought if are keen Cheers Gearbox

I run a spare parts outlet, we always stuggle against the bigger national stores because we are more expensive, but always got the product (even slow movers)at better quality(prefer not chinese) at a reasonable price (because I don't want warranty returns), but people still go to the super market style spare parts with no knowledge or experience. They clean up on the simple high turnover products taking the simple sales away from us small guys. Next time you purchase even small items remember the small shop needs bread and butter sales as well and put up with the slightly higher price and eventually (can only hope the big stores will disappear slowly because they will become less viable) and we will get the service back we would like and force the dealers to stock parts for the new trucks purchased by wanting to know what is in their spare parts dept, if they can't supply don't use them, they need to decentralise so everybody has a bit of stock but it does cost, they will have to get the message eventually. Older trucks are always going to be a problem because the money is not there to support a profitable business even in a perfect world (it would nice). Guess we all know it, don't want to pay for the service and I'm guilty of looking for a bargin price but it is not what we want Cheers Gearbox

Maybe in his defence he didn't want to quote on the job because he didn't know the truck and didn't really know what to quote on as he might have been quoting for a worst case scenario which is the best quote to receive as then if it was cheaper he would be a good bloke if it was more expensive he would be a rip off. I know I am in this position often and don't like being there Cheers Gearbox

could try to pump hand primer to build the pressure before turning it over it may eliminate lift pump trouble if it still doesn't start well it maybe deliver valves leaking in pump

I wouldn't use it if the oil ain't good enough get better oil, there is oil in the market that is alot better then what a B model needs to operate correctly and what is the reaction between the additives that the oil company add and what some other company makes that don't know what is in the oil you purchased in the first place. It can't be good if cause sack swelling be careful lol

L Diddy You haven't thought of using a factory sleeper cab B model as it would be alot of metal work to join 2 B cabs together, just wonder if it would be easier to convert a sleeper cab by adding seats and windows to create a crew cab Gearbox

Luigi I think for a park brake booster it would be safer to send it to a shop to repair that has experience in repairing them. If they have parts you will probaly save time as well, most park brake booster will have a spring that is at least 800 psi and if not caged could hurt. If you are not sure and don't have the parts send to the shop. You could check the can for dents as it may not be repairable if I am thinking of the correct booster Gearbox

I'm with Midnite as the rails need replacing and a x member added to help strengthen, those rails are not pretty big job but it is the only way to fix this truck gearbox

gotta have other stuff so you know how good Macks are!!!

Antique trucks are always going to cost more to keep on the road per mile as they are are old and being replaced by new and the parts also dry up which is why they become worth more money. There is always alternatives but it does cost one way or another. The other thing to rememeber is the truck is most likely not working on a daily basis and it will take a long time for the next reline.

Wonder if S-Cams are siezed? service brakes as well as spring brakes not working maybe trailer needs some work

You can buy a mouldable lining material any thickness and bond it, on to the shoe and after bonding can be rivetted and ground to size at a good brake shop don't panic Cheers Gearbox

Wheres the guys morals if you do the deal he should have phoned before carrying out another deal why so commercial sad world sometimes a mans word should be worth more

I required a section for a B model concave cab to repair some rust which was hard to fabricate, Fifth Wheel contacted me with PM next day he cut and organised the freight to Australia at a very fair price and nothing was too hard and the packaging was second to none with no damage to part over the distance. I have never personally met Fifth Wheel but I would now consider him a friend and would love to catch up with the man in the USA one day if I ever can make the trip. He has helped make my project so much easier and better, all from the other side of the world, I hope I can return the favour one day, or hope some body else can help him, as these sorts of deals need to go round and round that's why forum sites as this are so good Cheers Gearbox

If it had a air starter you wouldn't have to worry about the wiring