MACKS

Are you sure the cover is leaking,can you see exactly were it's coming from,most times a leak develops where the carrier bolts to the housing,there are two bolts inside that loosen and cause it to leak,if that's the case you need to remove the side cover to get to them. Good Luck

Live and Learn,we've all made our share of mistakes when working on trucks or heavy equipment,the main thing is no one got hurt,it's definitely worth taking the extra time to do it safely especially when messing with truck tires,tube tires are the worst, old tube type tires and old rims are disaster waiting to happen,you need to take every precaution you can including deflating the tires before loosening the first lug.

I've replaced the pads a few times,it's a little tough on the back but if you have the jacks a big air gun and a torch you shouldn't have to much trouble,you might have to heat the bolts to get them free but sometimes they come right off,depends on how long since it's been apart.Good Luck

In my opinion the real problem is the width of the newer cabs,on my cl dump I'm running a straight pipe because if I use a muffler it's gonna stick out to far for my liking,I don't want to have to try to see around the muffler when ever I look in the mirror and I know I wouldn't, like the way it would look sticking out way past the cab and the dump body.Anyway I'm looking to try one of those dynaflex mufflers it should give me the sound reduction im looking for and wont stick out much more than a straight pipe.Also I wouldn't, mount the body 3 or 4 inches behind the cab I think that's to close for comfort,I was always told about 6-8 inches is the rule of thumb.One thing I miss with the older cabs,there really is no reason to have a cab that's 7 foot wide for a dump truck. Good Luck with what ever you buy.

No,There are plenty of fuel additives you can use to help keep your injectors clean,The best thing to do is just buy your fuel from a good source and change your filters at the recommended hours.Also you would have some fun trying to start your engine with atf in your fuel filter.

I would say run the truck long enough to warm up the oil in the trans and then drain it and let it drip out for a day and then re fill with 80/90.As far as the leak sounds like the seal on the input shaft is bad,the only way to fix that would be to pull the trans out or maybe try some of that seal stop leak,believe it or not that stuff works.

I would go with a cheaper set and when the ratchet breaks and it will, just get yourself a good ratchet like one from sears,even when you put that eight foot pipe on it and break it they will replace it for free.

Why not just leave it positive ground,I had two DM's with positive ground and never had any problem with it,just have to be careful when hooking up a radio.Or if you want to pull a trailer,that might be a problem.

Rob, Thanks for that info,that's what I was looking for.

Barry, Is there anyway you can add it back to the forums,it made it much easier to check in and see whats been going on.

I just saw an air ram scoop on e-bay,it's used but looks good I think its six inch,it's up to fifty with a few days left.Take a look in comm. truck parts.

I did some reading on the fed dot web site and I am still a little confused about the whole thing ,the way they word it makes it sound like this only applies to Interstate drivers but then they go on to say all cdl holders will be subject to the medical qualifications.In New York my cdl is renewed for eight years and my med cert is good for two years,the way I understand it is if I don't update my med cert they will down grade my cdl to a regular license.But then again ""I am not sure if this applies to Intrastate drivers or just Interstate drivers.I guess I'll find out in two years.

Mack recommends motor oil for the power steering system,I use 15-40 the same brand that I use in the engine.

What do you mean by hopping?Are you talking about a vibration or a bouncing movement,I never heard that term used for a problem.

LOL,very versatile tool,I was very impressed the first time I used the sheet metal bit. chisel the bolts off brake linings drive nails out of tires frozen pins in slack adjusters and with a home made bit,remove old floor tiles from my sons basement floor

Yea the feds are raising the bar a little bit,going to my doc today for a checkup and to get the medical cert signed he told me he doesn't have to do the physical because he has all the info already in my files.The dmv told me I have to do this because I don,t have the K restriction on my licensee for some reason, she also said IF I check the box that says I will limit my driving to municipal vehicles only I wont need the med cert to renew,makes no sense at all to me.

I went to the dmv to renew my cdl and was told I couldn't do it until I take and pass a dot physical and show them proof,this is in New York State class B for local driving only,any one else have to do this,I always thought those regs only applied if you drive out of state.

I had a tranny fail once,the back end of a quad box,the reason was a small piece of blue silicone went in the shaft and plugged the oil hole under one of the gears.

I had one go bad on a 237 once the result was some very serious vibration in the higher gears with a load on and when pulling a hill.

Rob, he is talking about the trunion caps,the two caps that have four bolts in each witch hold the trunion stands to the bar.I never used a torque wrench on them I just tighten them equally with a big air gun,you want the cap to go on straight so tighten each bolt a little at a time.

You should replace the bolts with new ones,since one is already broke off you should do this as soon as possible,without those caps your tandem could separate from the truck,your gonna need to heat thaes bolts to get them off and any mack dealer will have the right bolts to put back on,if the inside of the caps are worn witch they most likely are replace the caps also or run a few beads of weld on them so they tighten up against the trunion bar.

The only way for him to learn is to get in there and do it,sounds like he has the basic understanding of how to drive but just need some hands on experience,I started the same way my dad told me to take the 10 wheeler and go to the pit a bring back a load of sand,so that's what I did,thirty fife years later I'm still driving dumps,but now I own my own

It all depends on how the truck is set up,it might have a leaver on the dump body right outside the driver door for the gate,if not than look for an air switch in the cab somewhere,as for the pto it also depends on how the truck is set up,look for a pto switch or leaver on the dash or in between the seats,once engaged see if the body goes up in neutral if not use third or fourth gear with the aux shifter in neutral,When is your first day for work,get there an hour early and go over the truck and familiarize. yourself with it. Good luck

Hay you gotta start somewhere go for it,the stick on the left is for the main box gears 1 through 5,the stick on the right is for low hole,direct, and reverse.

Maybe a bad ground.