MACKS

Not sure what you mean by an inner axle seal but if your talking about a regular wheel seal or axle seal just pry or drive the old one out and drive a new one in, if you can get the right seal tool it makes it easy to replace, you have to get it in straight and don't damage the rubber lip on the seal, if you will be doing your own brakes buy the seal tool it's money will spent, Hope this helps, good luck.

A jake brake kit would cost you around 15 hundred or a little more, you might be able to find a used one for a lot less, in my opion a dynatard is not the way to go I have one on my truck and it's pretty much useless, I also have a truck with a jake and the differernce is like night and day.

Hay scooter-I have the same motor in my 83 rd dump with a 12 speed mack tran, I'm not interested in turning up the fuel, that might give it more power but it's not gonna do much for the rpm, even with the puffer shut off there is no difference in rpm, I have the throttle screw turned all the way in so I can reach 21 or 22 hundred rpm with a load but the problem is it takes to long the hit 21 hundred, it fells like the govener starts shuting it down at around 17 hundred and then it's a slow climb to 21 hundred, it makes the truck run flat with no push off between gears if you know what I mean. I think we need to adjust the govener but I don't know how, does any one here know how to do it. I was even thinking of putting a different pump on it but not sure witch one would do the trick.Can any one here help us out.

I never heard of a jake on a gas engine, I don't think they have enough compression to make it work.

It's not that simple you wil need to remove the trany, clutch and fly wheel to replace the rear main seal, unless it's leaking bad wait until you are ready to put a new clutch in and then do the seal.

As far as I know there is no way to way to get rid of the free play in those old boxes other than to replace the worn parts, most likley the worm gear, your best bet would be to try and find a good used one or have yours rebuilt, also check all the u joints,if there worn it will add a lot of free play.

3.70 a gallon on Long Island NY, this is crazy how high will it go, only one more month and the dump truck season is over, gonna need a big rate increase next year.

Thats very sad news, our prayers are with him and his loved ones.I hope they catch the sob that ran him over and lock him up.

I have the same tranny in my 83 RD I like to split the gears with the stick in netural, always a little grind in the higher gears, make sure you have the right gear oil 80 or 85 weight is best and change the air filter on the tranny.

If the truck sits overnight and the fuel tanks do not level themselves out and the cross over line is clear witch we know it is than the only thing it could be is the vents on the tank or the vented fuel cap which ever one it has,like twostick said loosen the fuel cap and see what happens.

The reason why it will build pressure if the vents are pluged is that the pump draws more fuel than the engin can use, just so you can understand what im saying, lets say for every gallon of fuel the pump draws from the tank the engin only uses one quart and all the rest is returned to the tank.

I'm sorry I see now that you said there is no vent on the driver side tank, the fuel cap should be vented so check the cap to see if its working.

Sounds like the air vents on the fuel tanks are pluged up, I would say the driver side is definetly pluged and it's forcing the fuel to the other tank.

I,ve been using mack oil in my dumps 83 and 90 RD, some of my friends are using delvac they say it's better and I know its cheaper, delvac says it's good for a million miles, lots of companys using shell but I don't know any one useing exxon mobil. What about black bear I see some guys using it does any one here know anything about it.

Keep the push rods in order so you can put them back the way they came out, the injectors should have numbers stamped on them for the cyl. they go to.

The six nuts in the center, you might have to heat them a little if there is thread lock on them, be ready when you pull it off, it's a heavy hunk of steel, as for the clutch and pressure plate I would buy a new one get the easy peddle.

I replaced the rubber under the fuel tank straps on my 83 rd and I'm pretty sure I got it at mack.

Sounds like it's not getting fuel, if the puff limiter is not hooked up it should be smoking like a freight train with thick black smoke.

Ive owned a few trucks with the 237 it's a sweet runing motor and has a lot of power also very good on fuel. A lot of people say it's the best motor mack ever made .

I would say at least 25 hundred for both heads, that should inclued valve adjustment and to retouque the head bolts, Good Luck!

Looks like fun, you should of put a set of wheelie bars on the back LOL!

rsmartyn, I'd be happy if it went down to 2.70 in ny but I don't think thats gonna happen, in fact I don't think we will ever see that number again.

It's back to 3.00 a gallon in new york and rising. what are you guys paying and where?

Why are you guys talking about a clutch brake to shift a tranny? Neaver engage the the clutch brake while the truck is moving, The clutch brake is only for when your at a dead stop, If your drive shaft is turning the gears in the tranny are turning and you can't stop them with the clutch brake.

I had my 83 RD inspected by a mack dealer today and when I went to pick it up they only did the saftey insp and said I no longer need the emissions test becuse my truck is so old lol.My question is what about road side insp and dot, can they still give me the test and a summons if it doesent pass I would think not but I'm not sure. I might as well put more fuel to it if I dont have to worry about it.This is in New York State, what do you guys think?