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MACKS

Pedigreed Bulldog
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Everything posted by MACKS

  1. Yea I know what ya mean,I hit the reset button every now and than just to make sure its working,I'll take your advice and change it once a year anyway,I only put about 20,ooo miles a year on it,I do understand macks reasoning though,they don't want you to take any chances of dusting the engine by messing with the filter to often and unnecessarily.
  2. I know a lot of guys that change there air filter every year whether it needs it or not,the filter in my cl is going on three years,I'm going by what mack says and watching the restrition gauge,is this wrong should I just change it anyway.This subject has come up from time to time with some of my friends and they say I'm nuts for not changing it once a year,I tell them to read the label on the filter housing,what do guys think?
  3. Is the engine in the truck,if so you can buy the puck that fits the liners and use a jack from under the truck and jack them out,I always borrowed a liner puller something like Packer is talking about and they came right out,also you can notch out the puck to fit around the oil coolers so you don't have to take them out.
  4. LOL,did you notice that big adjustable wrench she holding on her shoulder?
  5. I think what he wants to do is change his pto setup from a side mount to a rear mount so he won't have to put the tran in gear to raise the bed,so to answer your question,it's not an easy changeover because the trany has to be equipped to accept a rear mount pto,the end of one of the idler shafts has to have splines,hope this helps.
  6. Thats a neat looking truck,height wise it looks kinda short or maybe those two guys are seven foot tall
  7. Try to find a spot on the top side of the tank so you don't end up with an oily mess when you hook up your air hose.
  8. A set radials at least on the steer would make a tremendous difference in your ride,in the mean time jack up the front and check the tires for roundness and make sure there on straight use a block of wood while you spin the tire.Check the tie rod ends,drag link and also a weak power steering pump or one low on fluid will cause a front end wobble,good luck
  9. LOL,was that a tire cap that flew threw the air,or something else,to bad there was no black smoke coming out of the stack
  10. Pretty sure you can change them over with no problem,My cl has 24.5 spokes and my RD has the big 24" and they both use the exact some brake drum.
  11. When you say you started out with no one on tdc make sure it's on the compression stroke.
  12. That nut may have thread lock on it and might have to be heated with a torch,a 3/4 inch gun should take it off if you have the right air pressure at the gun,also sometimes you just have to let the air gun do it's job and keep pounding until it breaks free.
  13. Sounds like you found the problem but since the power divider shares the same oil as the rest of the rear the metal filings could be coming from anywhere,I would pull the side cover off and have look inside,Good luck
  14. That pin would have to be worn bad to cause any kind of sag,if you can jack up the front of the truck under the bumper to get the weight off and look for any free play,the set screw holds the pin in loosen it than drive out the pin,jack up the front end so the spring end is out of the shackle and drive out the old bushings and replace them with new,I only did it once and had a heck of time getting the new pin in,the next time I went to a spring shop and they did the job while I waited took about half hour to forty minutes and I was on my way. Good luck if you do it yourself.
  15. Cheapest way is to change the ring and pinion gears but you will be limited to certain ratios.
  16. I'm betting that was the reason for the shaking and the wobble and if it's been loose for an extended time it's toast.
  17. Broken springs,shackles,or pins,you need to get to a spring shop.
  18. First thing to do is disconnect the pitman arm from the drag link then check the splines on both the pitman arm and the gear shaft,sounds like it's been lose for some time and the splines are more than likely shot at least on the pitman arm if so it will never tighten up properly,if you reuse the pitman arm or buy a new one install it before connecting it to the drag link look for the set screw marks on the gear shaft and you should be able to get it exactly where it was,after it's on check for equal travel in both directions make sure the set screws are tight,thats what holds it on.Good Luck
  19. If it's anything like NY Take a look at the reg,if it says transferable on the back that should be all you need along with a bill of sale.
  20. Mystic keeps there trucks sparkling clean they used to run all Mack R models but have since switched to kw but once in a wile I see one of there Macks here on Long Island.
  21. Just a thought,are you using the ac,compressor might be building up to much pressure.
  22. I have both versions of this trany,the two stick in my 83 RD behind a 300+ and the air shift in my 96 CL behind a 350,in my opinion the best and most versatile trany mack ever built,you won't use the deep reduction very muck the only time I use mine is when working in front of a milling machine I can creep along at just the right speed so I don't have to ride the clutch just check the numbers on the trany so you know if you have the direct or overdrive,pretty sure the overdrive trany ends with an o,good luck,
  23. If it's not broke don't fix it,you could put that thousand to better use.
  24. I think I'd have to throw a shell in my 45/70 for that one,LOL
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