Vladislav

Neat B-model. And I like all those monitors put on the table. In fact this matter is a bit deeper than it could appear. Not only he-animals mark their territory. She-animals do it either in some cases. Thanks for the pictures. Like to see activities you share.

Sure no blame to anyone, just a point of view.

You don't if you are a ostrich.

Best B-day wishes!

Great purchase! Congrats!

Are you sure your AIR tank is 24" round? That's a typical size of a FUEL tank OD.

This makes sence to me. If real life applys jails I see no reason sites can't do such either.

I sure do agree with this. Just hope for maximum possible moderator's correctness.

But looking the pictures it seemed to me that cab was not brand new but freshened up or rebuild. Weld seam along the rear edge of the floor panel looks like rust goes from there.

Yup. I can belive if ban put on a person there was some strong reason to do so. But banning a whole lot of long time and active members with multy thousand of posts and multi thousand likes seems as a go over a really sharp corner. Also some forums have a Ban List thread where every banned person is announced with a reason and a term of ban. And this last point is also the last point in my post since I think a member shouldn't be banned forever in a case such an action applied to him for the first time. We are all people and individuals have a tendency to cool off and figure the matters better.

Once again many thanks for the tips and suggestions. Actually I hate taking any assembly apart having no spares handy or at least supply facilities marketed on having the potentially needed ones in stock. In this particular case the truck is not in the main focus of my attention at the moment. I didn't plan to invest sufficient resources in it and hoped for an easy fix to get it running using an extra clutch set I took off an old E6 engine in the past. The pressure plate looked reusable by its look so I cleaned its working surface with sandpaper and wirebrushed the housing. Also I greased the bearing and hoped for no other issures. The presence and need of working with the set screw appeared as a surprize to me since I about never dealt with truck clutches before. Only car's ones and of pushing types. I googled 14 inch clutches locally and found out the stock offers were for only unknown brands the most probably China made stuff and cost of nearly US 1K what seemed of no sence. Their housings were stamped steel not cast iron as Eaton clutches are. I also found suitable clutch sets in PAI catalog, reasonably priced and seemed of the original style. I can order such one by a local PAI dealer but it usually takes 2-3 months to purchase. The shipping costs are cheap by this way but you have to pay by the waiting time. So all in all I'm still in the dilema. Seems like the way to go is removing the tranny and investigation. But currently I have the truck on its wheels and if I remove the gearbox I'd have its engine supported by a bottle jack and too probaly for a while. Doesn't look like a nice option being waiting first snow the other day by weather forecast.

Спасибо!

Yup. And the cab's LH front corner duplicates Superliner cowl, has square shape. RH corner is the same as a classis R-model has with depressing for air cleaner and its tube.

Two points got my attention. First I'm currently not able to disengage the clutch since the bearing has no travel or about no travel. Second I'm not sure I'd be able to find a different clutch assembly locally soon enough. Of what I learned something similar was used in 9400 and 9800 IH trucks which are common overhere and many parts are usually stocked for them.

Sounds very promising. I too hope turning of that wonder bolt will get me closer to the solution of my clutch issue. It's quite rainy the last few days. Would like to wait a bit for a better moment to sunbath under the truck. Once again, thanks to everyone for the support. I will update the post as soon as I get any news.

Wow, thanks. Sounds much easier than I expected. Will make a try.

Welcome to the forum! Vlad

Ok, I see. I turn off the two bolts at the ends and remove the center one, right? But what to wind or spin or turn after that?

Thanks, got the sequence. Just never wound the winder. The particular Cruiseliner kept its stock cable until I stepped onto the clutch pedal for the first time. And broke its last two threads when I did that. So I bought 3 meters of common steel rope with a couple of clamps and made a "new" one. The floor still conteins a sleeve the cable goes through. But looks like it doesn't affect its operation by any mean.

Thanks for the link. Read the most of the content but as I noted above still can't figure what and particulary how to tinker in the pressure plate to set my clutch.

I'm going to take apart one of T2090 trannies to restore it for my R-model. So expexting to have one input shaft laying on a shelf. It seemed more difficult to me to install transmission with the clutch on the flywheel since more travel is required. But reading the literature I figured it's easier to fit a tranny with 15.5" clutch than a 14" setup since the intermediate plate gets its pins into the pressure plate on 15.5" and you don't need to correspond the notches and pins at the stationary flywheel. So having right equipment to fit a tranny seems more reasonable to first assemble 14" clutch onto flywheel indeed. The traces on the pressure plate were made by collapsed friction discs. Those were the original matter of the issue and actually the reason the truck was sold and found place at my yard It looked like the pressure plate survived but now I'm not almost sure on that. The discs position bothers me either no doubt. I well remember I checked the scripts on them and gave parts to my helper step by step while he put them in place. So all should be fitted right. But you have to doubt on every thing during investigation.

Hmm.. Pretty interesting suggestion. Sure makes sence. I just can't belive the clutch could be off the adjustment that much to make the bearing almost against the brake disc. Another point I still can't understand what particulary to do for the adjustment. Should I turn loose that big bolt (or nut?) at the pressure plate and than try to turn the part the bolt is in? Is that a big still ring inside the clutch or anything else? Does it usually turn free or supposed to get stuck by age? Just never did it before and never investigated the design.

No, I didn't get that far along the job to achive ajustment Layed on a (wet and cold) ground under the truck today and got a look into the bottom inspection opening. What I saw was the thoughout bearing pulled off the pressure plate all its way down to against the clutch brake. There's a bumper plate at the front of the tranny housing suspended by 4 coil springs and it looked like the bearing already pressed the brake disk to it. And it was not forced rearwards by the yoke, more looked like something behind the pressure plate (inside the clutch pack) pressed the bearing out. Currently I'm on a scale between pulling off the tranny and rest the truck as it is till the next spring. It's parked not the way I like but the temp is a few degrees above the freezing point with light rains.

Thanks for the idea. When I investigated the discs, they had scripts printed, such as flywheel side and pressure plate side. I followed those directions as long as i remember. But currently have to get to some doubts on the correctness indeed. Never installed a two disc setup before. And only my 2nd time assembling the pulling type clutch at all.

I had in issue assembling a clutch on Cruiseliner. When i came to the place the truck was parked the tranny was off laying on a ground below the truck and the clutch parts stored separately. Both discs were destroyed so i keept a pair of similar good used ones from home. Found out the pressure plate, flywheel and intermediate plate rusty so had to clean the parts and grease where they should be. Than the following steps were done: put the flywheel on the crank end. On the tranny's spigot I hanged a clutch brake, pressure plate (with though out bearing grease nipple up), one disk, intermediate plate, than second disc. Managed the pulling yoke to get behind the bearing shoulders. Lifted the tranny, put on the engine, pulled by a cargo strap to the flywheel housing, attached mounting bolts all over it Than dove below, put bolts into the pressure plate holes through the botton opening and evenly tightened them up while turning the flywheel. Ended up having the pressure plate not completely on the flywheel housing, figured the intermediate plate didn't correspond its ditched with flywheel inner pins. So had to turn the tranny bellhousing bolts slightly loose, put some drift or a screwdriver against the edge of the intermediate plate, turned the crank a bit and heard "kling". After that the pressure plate got completely down to the flywheel so I could tight its bolts. Retightened the tranny to the engine, also could slick my phone into the rear opening and made a couple of photos where the plate ditches seemed corresponding with the pins. All in all looked Ok but when I tried to set the clutch pulling cable I found out no pedal travel. You pressed the pedal but it was like a stone. At the moment I hadn't time anymore so loaded the truck by crane and transported home. Now I'm going to figure out the matters and hope to fix the issue. So all possible tips and suggestions are strongly appreciated. Vlad