Vladislav

Unfortunately I'm not familiar with Allison. And also any other truck automatic transmission. But I have extensive experience with Mercedes cars hydromechanical transmissions, fixed many of those. My guess the principals are the same. Those trannies I can tell about have 3 sources of info they use to figure out when and how to shift. Ok, there's 4th one either. So.. The 1st is a position of throttle. Or gas pedal. Organized by a link or a cable connected to the pedal. The more you press the gas the later the tranny shifts. Or even shifts one step lower if you step on the pedal full way. There's a control valve inside the tranny which opens or closes depending on the position of the pedal and supplys a certain level of control pressure. It's called a throttle valve. The 2nd is speed of the output or propeller shaft. By other words that's actual speed of the vehicle. The faster you go the sooner moment for an upshift. That is also provided by a valve inside the tranny which reacts to the revs of the output shaft. Some way. Its pressure is called a speed regulator pressure. There's a kind of check valve in the hydraulic system (actually 2 or 3 of them depending on the amount of gears in a particular transmission). It has a plunger in the middle. The throttle valve pressue is applied to one side of it and the speed regulator pressure to the other. Depending on which pressure is higher (you press the go pedal or vehicle speed is high enough) the plunger goes to a side making signal to shift. Say upshift to the right or downshift to the left. Or keep the current gear if difference of the pressures isn't sufficient for the action. Let's go further. The 3rd control. Cars have a modulator. Usually it's operated by vacuum in the intake manifold (my guess a truck would have some kind of control connected to the throttle linkage, the reason will be clean further). The function of the modulator is check of the load applied to the drivetrain. When you pull or acccelerate shifts must go fast to not allow multidisc clutches to spin. So you (the tranny hyd system) applys high pressure to servocylinders. But when you drive smooth with no load or on a flat road you prefere smooth shifts with no kicks or hits. So the operational pressure is set lower. This also allows to lower down load on the main oil pump in the transmission and save a bit of fuel burned by engine. So the modulator corresponds its control pressure in the hyd system (called a modulator pressure) to the grade of load applied to the tranny. And the 4th point of control I promised to explain is kick-down. Usually that's an electric switch put under the gas pedal. It brings voltage to an electric valve in the tranny to open it and drain the speed regulator pressure to the oil pan. So the main shift valve(s) (the plunger(s)) go to the position for downshift. Hope the above is clear and of any help. Vlad

Yup, exactly what Mark said above. Just put anything at one side, do the other, than remove the temporary support and slightly grind for good adhesion. In my experience paper duct tape works quite fine. Good practice making multiple spots is doing a few at a time. For example all bad spots are ground and fat removed, than you mix a certain amount of epoxy (or what you use) and apply it on as many spots as you have power enough to do at once. If you're gone with the mixed material and feel Ok mix more and continue. If all the spots you went through got a layer which isn't set so far you may mix more stuff and apply 2nd layer "wet by wet". Just be awaire the repair stuff to not slide off since it may be still liquid. After all the prepped areas purchased its share of epoxy they should set up completely. For epoxy resin it's 24 hours in theory and polyether sets faster. Anyway it's usually better to take longer since you need to grind the surface for future layers and soft material would plug up the abrasive. This way while the epoxy is setting you have a choice of glue up other spots, grind already hardened ones or just go for a beer or to job.

I wouldn't do that. Different temp expansion materials may play a bad joke being put together. Better just add thicker layers of epoxy with glass wool where it looks crytical.

These brochures you posted are very useful. Just wanted to pont out one moment. Your truck is RW713 made after 1985, so 2nd generation, right? If so it has front springs (leaves) 4" wide. The spring spec list above represents the same leaves (at each option) for R, RD, U, RW and W (WS?) models. R's definitely have 3.5" leaves and the same for WS (Cruiseliner). So seeing the numbers I guess the table works for the 1st generation pre-85 Superliners RWS/RWL.

No, I'm afraid the things are more complicated. Although Eastern R's and F's (sorry for one more long story typed) had different style of the chassis rails RS was Western Hayward built model. And it rode on constant section "straight" rails front to rear. FS were also Western models. And they were also built using straight rails. So my guess is someone modified FS (cabover) into conventional RS we can see on the picture. And while doing that the cab tag was eliminated. Or just lost in action. The stamping on the chassis looks quite factory. No digits after the last "4", that's a dog Mack put in the front and after the chassis stamping starting from a certain year. So if nobody restamped the rail that's a chassis off Western Mack model FS cabover truck. Ok, "lightweight six wheel tractor". The tag on the cab in the door opening is the cab number I belive. Cab model was indicated shorter, two letters and two digits. I just have no idea though who can identify that cab's origin by that number. Vlad

No, better to not enlarge the hole. It's supposed the air to pass through but also allows some bit of coolant to pass where it's not needed to pass during normal operation of the engine.

Yes, that's Neway airride. Looks factory. I also have that style on my Canadian built R-model. The best option from what I learned to the moment is purchasing ready rods of the needed length and replace them. BTW depressing the cone pins too probably will be a PITA. I still have a couple of brackets off differentials I removed together with a rod or just a pin and they're waiting for a gas torch to be fired up. Couldn't do anything good with those when on a truck. Even with a big sledge hammer. The bushings are replacable in theory. They're supplied by Atro (with poliurethane?) and by others. I orered PAI parts since they were easy to purchase at the time and cost reasonable. When they were here and I tried the replacement I found out the long rod was fitted fine (sure using hydraulic press and fashioned spicer made by lathe) and the short rod had holes LARGER than new bushings were supposed to fit into. That short rod got its way to a machine shop where its holes were bored and sleeves pressed in. So it's ready for new bushings (and I'm not ready to put my hands on it yet). But the 2nd set is on the waiting list. And I expect the same issue there. In my particular case importing the complete rods is expensive story since they're heavy and also not really cheap. New bushings were nearly $30 for the one with a brace and $50 for the pin. You need 4 of each style for a tandem truck.

Yup, been there done that. You're on the way. Next step (on my mind) would be grinding off ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶s̶h̶i̶t̶ bad material from the inner side over the cracked areas and start applying new bondo from there. That when it set completely (I'd wait for 2-3 days for each spot) grind off the excess and a bit more at the outer side together with surrounding area and apply bondo on the face. And yes, you don't need to remove all old repairs in a case the material looks strong enough and doesn't slice away.

Welcome to the forum!

Actually not that many parts are interchengeable between the two. Doors as said above but you should look for the mirror bracket holes to be drilled different. The grille you have on the truck was also used on Eastern R700 (and not on R600). I would also say fuel tank J-brackets and frame cross members are of the same width. With a remark of their actual width depends on presence of inner rails if that's a double frame. The crossmembers are made narrower to compensate the inner rails thickness keeping the overall width between outer edges of the frame. So if you find a member off an R with a single frame it would suit your single frame F. If the particular crossmember is of the same style. Since 2 or 3 different styles were used for both models. Frame rails are different between R and F700. F700 has fish belly at the center and the front end of the rails is fashioned different than on R's. Worth to point out there were F600 with similar or the same rails as R-model but your truck is F700. All front chassis brackets are different such as spring hangers, steering gear mounts, cab mounts etc. Front bumper has different bolt pattern. Front axle steering knucles, hubs and wheels would suit a particular front axle which could be put both onto F or R. The axle beam casting is the same but may have holes for the spring U-clamps drilled at different distance and my guess is that's how they are drilled. Rear axle, engine and transmission would be similar as long as they're of the same particular model. Not sure on transmission mounts and also on the front engine mount (it was different for R's during the years of production). Speaking the cabs the seats, instruments, roof vent door, some parts of the steering column. Air wiper motor is of similar style but has different fitment. Could be probably reworked to install but I'm not sure. Battery boxes with covers were of the same style for many Eastern Mack models during the era. The most of brake components are the same excepting air tanks I belive. Steering gear may be looked over to be found similar or suitable but it needs to be investigated over particular unit. Ok, worth to add the windscreens are sure not interchangeable with R but similar ones were used in CF firetruck cabs. Vlad

As I remember Canada Day is the birthday of British queen Victoria. So since the year she was born?

Have a Great Australia day Australia! The same to Paul and the rest of the crue!

Looks glossy and sexy. And the interior of the 2nd truck is twice that way.

My guess is (that's only a guess though) that taper leaf is a good setup for a hobby truck when it's supposed to bobtail the most.

Ok, got it. I could measure my lever but saw not much sence in that since it's off a L-model (NR-model) so must not be similar to a B.

That's how the parts on my truck are installed (they're not in place yet though). Ok, an idea. Didn't you remove the shaft the pedal fits onto? As I remember two key slots in the shaft are not in line. So if you put it left side right the key slots went off the correct place.

Is the roller supposed to be pushed down? Mine (in 1945 NR) goes forward being kicked by the pad from the back side.

You're always welcome Bob. Unfortunately there're not many active DMM owners in the community.

3" is a large missmatch. Seems like you should double check every component installed onto the chassis. Hope you have the cab off at the moment.

The front corners of the cab are removable fiberglass panels. Easy to fix by the way of general fix for fiberglass. The front turn signals look just broken off or removed and their pedestals are up above. The spots don't look broken. The lights themself are standard lights you can purchase from SLC lighting or others. Overall the truck looks quite solid on the pics. MH has chassis similar to 2nd gen Superliner with only difference in the front spring front brackets since they have hinges for the cab integrated in the castings. MH's are typically shorter than RW's so chassis are less stressed during the service life. And supposed to be less cracked. But the particular truck is quite long for a MH. The engine is probably E6-350 for 1985-1988 (or 89) and later ones had E7's. MH613 means Mack engine tandem rears. The engine, tranny, rears and the chassis are typical Mack stuff. Not far from an R-model. Front axle and springs are similar to Superliner as said above so no trouble to find spares (no more than for a R-model). Specific parts are the cab which is rust-free but may have stress cracks. The one on the pics looks very solid. Typical issue is the shifter linkage where multiple joints wear out and bring troubles shifting into a particular gear. Some spots are relatively easy to fix (by machining) and some not. Complete linkage is difficult to get. Also when you're up in the cab and far from the tranny you barely hear when it grinds being shifted not in time. That's my observation in relation to an R. Windscreens aren't for sale at every corner and many trucks have repairs in the plates where cab shock absorbers fit. Cab airbags aren't a trouble to locate. Cab lifting pump may be leaky but that's just a hydraulic pump. While driving you must keep specific road orientation relating to an R-model since you seat much closer to the outer side of the vehicle. Actually you're riding the FL wheel so you must keep yourself up close to the median white line on the pavement otherwise you may hit a pole by RH mirror. Maneurity is like of a big car in relation to a conventional. Of other typical MH issues the threadle valve in the cab use to get stuck having long steel plunger in aluminium base but that's when the truck is parked for a long while. Anyway worth to take apart, clean, put grease and install solid top rubber cover. The grill parts are hen's teeth as pointed above but those on the truck are fine judging by the pics. On the postive side aside of maneurity you have perfect access to the tranny and easiness of clutch replace if needed. Ugh, and always be patient and keep attention while getting off the cab Vlad

Mine has the tanker body removed and not running. So somebody else

Did you also use the original rear engine mounts for all the assembly? I honestly don't remember all the plated ways you was figuring how to set up the truck the best but IF the chassis is the same, the engine is the same and the tranny is the same... the lever must fit. I can't imagine you put it upside down or someone came into your garage, stole the original one and put something else in place of it.

Mine had slight taper on the splines. You can barely but see it on my pics. Those hydro units I had taken off Mercedes G and cars (with circulating balls) also had taper. So seems like typical design determined by what Larry explained above.

A steal from the Mack Historcal Museum? That's a factory assembly drawing. BTW not almost up to scale if you're going to use say for modelbuilding.

I had to heat up my Pitman arm. Didn't go off with big puller. I put pressure than heated up to some grade (not red hot) and added a couple of good hits. Sure the situation may differ on a particular truck.