Geoff Weeks

In my book a 15 is a 12 anyway, and it is a transmission looking for a reason to be. I can see why fleets would spec them as it are a little more "idiot proof" than a 13 or 18. For me if I need the deep bottom end, I would choose 2 spd axles over an 18. 18 has the 15 beat any way you look at it, but in the wrong hands can get expensive quick I have a RTO 14615 in the Marmon, and the only reason it is still there is I retired before I could swap it out. Run what you came with until you have the money and time to change, but when you make the change, make it for the best possible spec's for how you are going to use it, or save your money. Just because it may be slightly better is not reason to jump from one compromise to another. The difference in cost when buying a 10 vs. a 13 or 18 on the used market is going to be a few hundred, but you still have all the costs of the bell, mounts and clutch over what you have now. I would sit tight with what I had and wait until the ideal set-up can be had. Do the Math! crunch all the numbers, startability, top speed, cruising speed RPM, jumps between gears etc.

I think grain trailers can be either full trailer like you posted or pup with convertor dolly. One things for sure, you'll not be backing that out 1/4 mile at speed unless you are a whole lot better than I. I did know someone who could and did back 80' stretch trailer with pipe at 25-30 mph for a long while. Too much to go wrong quickly for me to try it. Same guy also backed a boiler and jeep into a garage in one go, I can do it, but not in one shot.

I wouldn't have a 15 in anything if I had a say. I have one in my Marmon and hate it. If gearing for slow RPM at high road speed, steps between gears are critical to having something that works well. If using an Eaton, then look are rear gearing and transmission as a package. What you choose in the axle will effect if you want a RTO or an RTLO 13 or 18 My use was different than your, a lot more weight and wind resistance, but also a lot more displacement at power (ATA 3406). Being able to drop a gear and gain ~250 rpm vs ~400 rpm is the difference between a 13 and 15. I know right now you are thinking "I'm going up in HP I will not need to drop a gear" but there will be times you will and going to 1650-1700 is a lot better than 1900! I still say what you have will handle what you are putting through it, I wouldn't put a driver in it, but driving it yourself it would take it just fine.

That is only true for engine that use a rocker to work the injector. Engines with an injection pump (mech Cat and Mack) there isn't the rocker to trip the the exh valve at injection. So on those they have to use a valve on an adjacent cyl to trip and the timing isn't exactly right. It is why a mechanical Cat's Jake isn't as good as one on a Cummins. Once mfg went to electronic common rail with the cam pushing the injector and the electronics adjusting timing an duration, Jakes matched those of Cummins. 2 stroke Detroits had there own problems, keeping a Jake on those limited.

Yeah, my "education" was decades ago, but I still remember that today.

Caught me out the 1st time I ran the overhead on a Mack. Couldn't figure out what I did wrong! Once learned never forgot.

Start by breaking the system in 1/2. Test at the 7 pin plug to determine if it is a truck or trailer problem.

3/4" breaker bar and cheater pipe are my go-to for stuff like that. Cheap to replace if something lets go. I have a torque multiplier for going back together.

Drop in a N-14 or a Big Cam 4 444 and that would make a sweet heavy haul rig, even on walking beam.

I wonder what its original vocation was? 1st thought was "turnpike doubles" but not with that wheel-base. Daycab cabover with V8 must have done something that required that? Day cab cabovers don't shorten things very much from a single bunk sleeper, and having the sleeper is nice. So back to the 1st question.

4 people in a U model cab must have been crowded! Hope there wasn't too many shifts required.

Here is another way to research part that I learned from the school of hard knocks. If the military or the government ever stocked the parts, it will have an NSN (national stocking number) assigned to it. Often this will bring up places that will not sell to the general public, however if you drill down on the NSN number often it gives all kinds of detail on the part. For example, I needed a spring for the Hi Torque type brakes used on the K series IHC trucks. Although I was un-successful in finding a spring, I did find the wire gauge and number turns as well as the spring force of the item. From that I could have one made. In another case it lead me to a whole bunch of cross over numbers to try, and I was sucessful finding N.O.S seals that are no longer in modern catalogs with this method. The outer bearing nut on the axle has a seal that rides on the axle flange to keep oil out of the greased bearings. The seal is replaceable on the nut, but IHC never sold it separate, so I had no part number for the seal, but by digging through cross references, and the NSN, I was able to find the nut and the seal numbers. From that I was able to get enough seals to replace all in my "fleet" of K's. I also now have many seal companies numbers for those seals, should I need more in the future. Takes a lot of time, and going back and forth with cross-over numbers, because sometimes mistake are made, best if you can get two verification that the numbers in question do cross to the same or third vendor before assuming.

Brocky, just pulling your leg a bit. The REASON I have all the parts books is because I asked for them because parts guys couldn't (wouldn't) use them. I either got them from the parts house or wrote the mfg and asked. I explained I worked on old or really odd equipment and needed the "buyers guide" as well as the regular parts catalog. For some inane reason, mfg digitized the main catalog but discontinued the buyers guide? The buyers guide contained drawing, specs, and pictures, all helpful when trying to find something that works. While most counter guys couldn't or wouldn't look at the buyers guide some did. THAT is the important info to put in digital form, as it is expensive to publish in book form when many never used, but cost little to have in electronic form. I have lost some of the catalogs over the years, I don't know where or how they grew legs. I had one for brake wheel cyl that would list by casting number, so if you had a NLA cyl but the casting was still in use, you could buy and bore out to your size, same with brake pistons. Have one for piston rings where you can find rings by size and shape/type. Got rings in this country for a Gardner that way.

P.S., if the size checks out, I wouldn't even bother checking an autoparts store. I would mail order through Grainger, Zoro or Amazon, or whom ever you like. I've had to do that getting Michinna canister filter, on my 1942.

So, what exactly are you calling me? I'm and old man, and have the old books (when I can find them!) somewhere I have an old Fram book, but reached for what I could find, NAPA (Wix) book.

If you are only go to use a few times a year, it doesn't pay to change wheels (required for going tubeless). I would put another tube type back on. 22 years out of a radial is doing good. If you need 2 steer tires and are only using at harvest time, then I would go bias ply, they age better than radials. I know some may say "I'm not fit to burn" suggesting bias, but old bias do better than old radials. Front tire change, you don't even need to pull the wheel off, as long as you can get the bead broken.

Crosses to a Baldwin P41 Wix the same with a 5 infront.

F-4 is the housing number, cross to (old) NAPA number 1006 for the element. DIM: ht: 5.007" OD: 4.094 ID: .533 Gasket number: 5017 (old NAPA) DIM: OD: 4.736 ID: 3.687 thickness: .062 Check those against what you have. Cartridge lube metal case filter.

I ran Hankook's when I ran tube types without a problem, would run 3 treads off one casing (1 original, 2 caps), but toward the end they were not made in S Korea any more and were coming out of China. I then switched brands that were coming out of Viet Nam, Sri Lanka, I avoided China produced tires, although I will admit that some good ones come out of China as well. As to the brand CRS, and I have to go look. (Sumatro?) . Yes Stud Pilot AKA Budd wheels, Left side studs LH right side RH on the thread.

Those are tube types, and it is a odd thing to see on a tube type. That kind of sidewall bubble is seen on tubeless when the liner fails and air pressure makes it though the carcass rubber. With a tube type, it would have to be failure in the mfg process, like an air void in the carcass itself. Since the rim on a tube type isn't air tight, a tube failure would vent to the outside of the assembly. What brand tires were they? I 1st thought a copula weeks old, but a few years is a casing failure. Must have lost some cords in that area to loose sidewall strength. That is the poster child for doing "pre trips"!

If he has the title, and it is correct for the truck, then he would know it is not a B model, on the other hand, if he has "a title", that isn't for the truck, what does he really have?

I'd looking at what it really does cost to ship. talk to some import/export freight forwarders (freight brokers). If you can wait for it to come by sea, it may be more reasonable than you think. If you need in less than a week then ($$$$$$$$$$$$$$). Get aprox weight and crated dimensions. Go from there, at least you'll have an idea what one fixing option will cost.

Bit bigger than mine! but then mine was one of the smallest trucks Dart made at the time. Mine is street legal width.

Look closely at the mains, and main saddles. If the rods was that bad, and the pistons were that loose, I'd want to be sure the block will take a new crank without having to line bore the block. This is what I was getting after in a previous post. I worked briefly at a shop where the boss did a crank on an engine but didn't take the time to check the main bores, the crank didn't last but a few miles. Cost him big time, had to pull the engine back out and line bore (couldn't find a replacement cheap enough) the re work the crank for a 2nd time. With that rod being so loose, and no shell to see, along with the pistons being loose, tells me it was run long enough to do serious damage. At least roll the mains on either side of that rod and inspect. At this point I see only two paths, one is to pull the engine and take it to someone reputable with the tools to check main saddles and assess what it would take to build what you have, and the other is to replace the whole engine with used. No point sinking thousands into a replacement crank only to have it wiped in short order because the bearing bores aren't aligned. Anyway you go is going to cost serious coin, the goal is to spend wisely so you don't have to keep putting good money after bad. From how it looks, you're not going to get away with a "band-aid" fix. It is even possible that someone tried (writing on the crank) and that is how you ended up where you are. I feel for you, I have been there, but at least you don't have contracts waiting for you to deliver, and can invest the time and a little bit of money to prevent having to spend a ton of money on stuff that doesn't fix it right the 1st time. Your rod and pistons clearance was much more than mine was when I lost a rod bearing, Only indication I had was slightly lower oil pressure and much higher oil temp then normal. Once I idled down then it knocked a little. Still cost me a rod, a crank and a piston. My mains were ok but two were into the copper when I pulled it apart. I am not trying to be the profit of doom, but trying to keep you from spending any more money than you have to, in order not to have to fix it twice.

1st things 1st, find out the state of the parts he has. You can check the rods in the engine but you really need the crank out to check the mains good. Rod bearings can fail from excessive main clearance, as the oil goes 1st to the mains from the block, then through the crank drilling to the big end. Pistons rattling back and forth are another consideration. This wasn't a single failure but multiple problems. Before sinking good money into one part, assess the total condition of the engine and what it would take to bring it back. Repairing this engine may cost more than importing another complete engine, that has been run and tested. Will the block accept new liners? Any cracks to the block, main bearing webs etc? Will it need the main bearing saddles line bored? I myself, have been guilty at times, thinking I can fix "just one" problem only to discover several more after spending my money on the one part I thought it needed, hard learned experience when dealing with a big problem with expensive parts, is to make a complete assessment before spending dollar one. I am in one now, that I thought could be fixed with one rod, one piston, but is getting a new block. Part of that is because I can't get correct parts to fit, but it also is "mission creep".