Joey Mack

On that rear end,,, I have no clue.. with all the rears I built, I never did build a full locker.. so on that, i'm out. sorry i dont have the knowledge, jojo

cam and peanuts was in the input housing/power divider... the bull gear houses the spiders/differential. they were the same.. the spur shaft housing in the 200 series, had partially enclosed assembly the required removal of the bull gear before removing the spurshaft and the housing, in the case that you had to do a top reduction repair. this required a full re-build/ re-check of all pre-loads and tooth patterns. yes, the 200 is tough, but in my opinion, the 92/93 was good enough... The driver broke the truck, not poor build quality.. jojo

I have repaired CL's with 92/93 rears.. We were Taught that you had to have 200 series carriers for the high torque applications, as well as the 2130/2180 tranny.. the difference in the rears was the spur shaft housing.. now if i'm wrong,??? teach me... jojo

I don't have any real knowledge on how to properly spec. out a truck for specific jobs and work loads, but what i can tell you is that where I came from in Maine, Many guys who didnt have superliners for logging, construction, and moving oversized loads, had CL's.. 460 HP and 460 XT'x, 18 speed tranny/ 4:14 and 4:42 rears.. camel back rears, #44+ lbs. The CL replaced the RW. Those were big shoes to fill... I say the CL did it!! Of course this is my opinion, Jojo

Thats true Glenn.. Then the customer is trapped, Jojo

I had a feeling about this issue.. I remember back a few posts I asked you if you/they checked the ride height and drive shaft.. Glad its fixed. And,, R.E.D. said it best.. The shop should have driven the truck to feel the issue, then did a visual inspection before going inside the tranny.. I would have expected them to look at, ride height/ u-joints/ phasing/ tire wear/ loose u-bolts/ even jack it up, release the brakes and check wheel bearing play.. I guess they just wanted to start at the hig dollar parts first then work thier way towards the repair.. What R.E.D. said is worth more than .02 cents.. Good luck, Jojo

So our Double vaxed, double boosted, double masked King, got The Kung Flu 2 times in 2 weeks.. So glad we all wasted time and stress, to combat a virus that "We all were going to get anyway" What a joke.. jojo

Yeah 'Rowdy' My '77 C-30, is actually C-20 cab on a '78 C-30 frame, (2Wd. dually) the tranny is now a Granny gear 4spd. (Late '70's) it was automatic.. I am re-using the 4-Bolt 350 that was in it... I hopped up a 400, and ran it for a while, but it was too much for it, so I put the stock 350 back in.. Better now, It smells like an old push mower when it runs, but,,,, whatever.. I use it locally,, it's the only 'Ton truck' I have.. You can see it in my profile pics.. She aint pretty.. jojo

I just went back to PAI,, I did have an account to look up parts.. The breakdowns are great.. Thats true.. but what I dont have is a shopping cart to put my parts in so I can buy them.. I should have been clearer, I guess... I dont have buying power... jojo

I guess I should try again... Thanks "F"... jojo

👍.. Gotta go... I have another road call.. jojo

you can order PAI on-line, but not directly from them.. We have a parts store in Charlotte called "Diesel Parts" They stock PAI... I did see where you can try to creat a PAI Direct acct. But my Little Micro A$$ was not eligable.. The E-Tech I just did cost $6700.00 for the engine kit/ cam kit with all 18 lifters/ oil pump/ and cam bushings... I got 2 heads from Mack.. jojo

Mack Truck VMACIII 1998 Fault Codes List _ Truckmanualshub.com.pdf

I wish we were closer to each other... I would love to build your E-7.. and save you around $15,000.00 .. I just did 2 in the last 5 weeks.. an ASET-C and an E-Tech.. parts and labor for both was under $35,000.00... with re-man heads and cam sets,, same customer.. Yes PAI engine kits... one turbo was newer, re-used it... the other got re-built.. both trucks are haulin dirt.. anyway, to turn this around wont cost $40,000.00 like Mack would tell you, if they even have a guy that knows how to build it.. good luck with the KW.. keep in touch, jojo

yeah, there wont be a ,, so-called,,, download... this one is about being a Mechanic.. plain and simple,,, Like I was taught many years ago,,,, "The Metal Don't Lie"... I bet this will be a re-build of a good engine block, provided the crank is in good shape.. I always drop the 13 cap's, one at a time to inspect the crank before I go deep... A bad crank, makes a huge difference, on how to go forward.. Jojo

Help me on this "F" can you download the last event from V-Mac II ?? I have never done it before,, V-Mac III, yes.. anyway.. I would just like to know, but all-in-all.. Physical inspection, is the way to go.. He is lucky, really... I still wish I had bought a Pro-link 9000 with V-Mac cartridges.. I would buy one today if I could find one.. jojo

God Bless you... I live in a small old house. The only objects that I need to protect is my guns and ammo, and a few guitars, and a tote with photo albums.. I really need to do what I said, and get a couple more small steel safes, and put all of these in my outside building that is built with concrete blocks... jojo

This placeis a nice place on High Rock Lake.. The restaraunt is pretty good,, country cookin' and pretty waitress's.. (Don't tell my wife) anyway,, just 50 miles on the Tri-Glide, with my lovely lady on the back,.. That's actually her's.. I bought it for her birthday 4 years ago... I ride it more than she does.. jojo

Oh My.. I am so sorry for both of you... I have a fear of loosing everything to a fire.. jojo

So I pulled a broken rearend out of a CXN yesterday, the Banjo housing is destroyed. I called Mack to find one.. Plenty of them in stock, but they are $5200.00... REALLY!!???. So today my wife and I took a little ride to salvage yards... No luck, but we did stop for lunch.. I like shopping for truck parts.. jojo

good point about cracking fuel lines to shut it down.. jojo

to tell you the truth, I really like the Ruger LCR .22 Mag. I bought for my wife. It is smooth, no hammer to fetch up on clothing, no safety, other than the little key that came with it.. It is small enough to put in my pocket, easy to conceal.. and, well,,, it's a .22 Magnum... oh yeah, and it's easy on the wallet to buy and practice with.. I carry a Taurus 5 shot revolver in .38 +P.. I should have gotten the Ruger LCR version.. jojo

re-building the inj. pump would be a good start. . yes check the top end for bent pushrods and hopefully no broken rocker arms.. when you drain the oil, I suggest having a kitchen strainer with you to drain the oil through.. just in case there are chunks in the pan.. if water is the first thing that comes out when you pull the drain plug, well, a rebuild will be in order.. also, are you sure it was a fuel issue, and not oil passing through the turbo? pull the CAC boots off and the turbo inlet boot, to look for oil.. There is a handful of checks you can do, before diving into a re-build.. Keep in touch.. Many smart guys here to help guide you as needed.. as far as pulling the injection pump... bring the engine up on the degree mark that is on the pump tag, (hopefully its still there). if not we can get the setting.. pull the air compressor, then pull the pump, and dont turn the engine around, unless you are confident on how to bring it back to the timing mark for the pump,,, its really not hard to do, just pay attention to detail.. Good luck, Jojo

Mark, I would definately look at the S&W gov. 6 rounds instead of 5, heavier cylinder, and fires .45 ACP as well.. I guess that makes it able to fire 4 different types of ammo. 5 if it can handle .44 Mag. Dont make me add another one to my collection,, Dammit!!!! jojo

I wonder if there is an App.. that will program a 3-D printer, that will make a carbureator.? Seriously, it is true and sad.. I have to show my O'Rielly parts guys how to look up my parts, for my '77 C-30/ '90 G-20/ and of course my '48 KB-7... Oh well, Jojo