Joey Mack

I guess i'm out, tjc.. oh well... I used to like koolade.. however i was just a kid...

I would expect a worn cam lobe/ rocker arm/ bad pushrod, but by now, it should have failed big time.. I really dont want to insult him, but, I did ask if he knew how to barr the engine properly to set the cylinders 'up'.. I assume when he dropped the oil pan there wasnt any chunks in it.. I cant seem to wrap my head around this one.. jojo

I forgot about that... Where do I collect my GOLD? too funny, luv all of your posts by the way.. If I ever go back home to Maine, I hope to pass threw your town to say hello... jojo

I can alway's count on you to bring me back down to Earth... Thank's TJC,,, jojo

Still don't know if I passed the test... jojo

is the green cord under the hood damaged from a chunk of tire??

OHhhh,,, come on Bob???? wait... Ooooooooooooooooooo come on Bob??? That's more like it... I took the test this morning, after coffee and breakfast.. Now after a few beer's,,,,,, well,,,,, no so good... luv u man , jojo

the only lines to be removed were the spaghetti lines off the shuttle valve.. now.. if there was a boo boo when pulling the tranny and it fell off the jack, or rolled away and hit the range valve regulator/filter and broke it, or the shuttle valve got broken, or... someone didnt mark the shuttle valve lines before pulling the tranny, because of being slack or lack of training.. these can be possibilities.. I would like to think that the service writer/manager, would have heard the real story and then relayed the issue to Ricky.. Honesty, as hard as it may be to swallow, it is the best way to work with the customer, when a human error occurs.. I know,,, I have had issues over the years, and I currently have an issue with a job I have done dozens of time's. I take it upon myself to get to the bottom of the issue, then fix it.. jojo

I'm stuck on how #4 needs to be adjusted often.. where's the metal going??? jojo

are you able to barr the engine around so you can look really good.. what is the condtion of the pushrod, the number on it should be 417... I expect the threads showing on the adjustere nut is different from the others since you have to adjust it often... jojo

Ok, I'll bite.... 1; the R model stack 2; middle cab over wheel is blocked by a trash can 3; the sunlight cast on the guys 4; the roof light count 5; the middle cab over mirror 6; mirror style on the tractor trailer 7; missing headlight on the T T 8; door hinge count on the T T 9; air horn count on the T T 10; marker light on the trailer 11; small square thing on the T T fender 12; marker light on the tractor side cover 13; the trees 14; the sky color. Thanks swishy, Jojo

ok, now I got it... I would like to see a picture of the rocker arm assemblies on the heads.. i guess you have pinless valve bridges on both sides.. jojo

for the power leash, I have a .022" and a .023", riveted together so I can set the engine brake lash.. screw the tool trucks..

I have small pairs of feeler gauges that I took out of sets, and riveted them together. I have different pairs for different engines.. which also means I have full feeler gauge sets that are missing several individual gauges... ( no longer full set's)

next time you loose fuel prime, put the ether away, and loosen the small fuel line at the lift pump at the right front corner of the engine. pressurized the left tank with caution, when fuel bubbles out of the loose fitting, stop, tighten the fitting.. then loosen 3 fuel lines at the head, no need to remove the fuel line nut, just 2 full turns loose. and pump the primer, and gently pull the loose line out to get it to bleed. then tighten it. torque to about 40 lbft or so, (by feel if you need too) then back it off then re tighten to about 25lbft. do this to each line one at a time.. then crank it.. it will start, stumble, then clear out.. jojo

good question 'F'... i read back a few posts, and I believe he has an ASET-C without an engine brake.. But I'm not so sure... I expect it to have a powerleash.. I dont think I ever worked on an ASET that didnt have an engine brake,,, if he has powerleash, we need to clarify the proper valve adjust steps,,, ceramic lifters dont like an incorrect adjustment.. jojo

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easy breezy.... barr the engine around to 1&6... then, look at the #2 exh. rocker arm (the front one)... exh. valves are to the front of the cylinders... it should be 'rocked' opening the exh. valve. that means you are up on #1.. if #2 exh. rocker is not rocked, then you are up on #6.... jojo

Da na'da, senior Mario... Jose...

do you have 'lo' or 'hi' range? does air contiuosly leak no matter if the range button is up or down? Lets say you have an Eaton 8LL or 13/18 spd. the shuttle valve is on the top left edge of the tranny. it has 3 rubber hoses that go to the rear range valves and a filter/regulator.. and 5 spaghetti lines from the shifter, red/blk/grn/wht/blue... ( I believe I am correct) the white one is the exhaust line.. someone please correct me if im wrong.. If its a 10 spd. the shuttle valve is on the top, front section of the shift cover. 1 main air supply 'in' 3/8" line, and 2 spaghetti lines from the shifter. blk/white... the white one goes to the right fitting on the shuttle valve, the black one goes to the left fitting. in this case you can just switch the lines at the shift knob, for ease of access.. back to the 8LL-13/18spd.. there would be no reason for them to remove the rubber lines, unless they saw damage or dry rot, or if you asked them to re-ring the range pistons.. however the 4 spaghetti lines have to be un hooked.. We will get this figured out, if all lines are connected correctly, you may have a bad o-ring on a range piston, causing an air 'by-pass' jojo

what eaton tranny do you have.?

heck, I didnt know you could write in Spanish... theres way more money to be earned as an interperator than a mechanic... jojo

try to connect a separate battery to the ECU fuse in the box on the firewall next to the steering column.. should be #40.. ground the battery to the truck with a jumper cable, then run a 12-14 gauge wire from the positive post and strip the end of it , and pull the fuse and then lay the wire over the socket and push the fuse back in.. be careful not to over stretch the socket,,,,, or you can use one of those fuse connectors that has a blade for an extra circuit.. if the truck fires right up, I would say the starter is pulling too many amps and volts, and the EECU is not getting enough power to fire the EUP's.. jojo

I deleted my post because I miss-understood the info.. its an ASET-C... I hate them,,, they are SH!T... Mackpro will be the best for this since he is current on todays info.. jojo