Joey Mack

Well, no info on what caused the fuel in the oil. I inspected the cam while I was in there and the #1 exh. lobe has a chip in the lift.. So I am definately re-building this one too.. Be careful what you wish for.... I needed some work a couple weeks ago, and now I have 1 customer with 3 engines that need re-building.... An ASET-C, which I loaded pistons and liners into yesterday, waiting on the lifters.. An E-tech, and an E-7 V-Mac II.. I still have one of his ENDT 673's in my shop, and another 3 cyl. John Deere to build.. 🙄 Sorry I dont have an answer as to how the fuel got into the crankcase.. If I do find the reason, I will post it.. thanks guys, jojo

Sad but True, Mech.... I could never go back to a dealership.. Hell,, they dont want my kind anyway, Jojo

Ricky.. Do you have a red and yellow park brake buttons? if yu only have the yellow, you need a tractor protection valve for the truck. and maybe a new anti compounding valve in conjunction with the R-12 valves, in the frame.. There are a few way's to do it.. ... just curious... jojo

I love that one Joeh...

right side panel that says Granite..

gray engine?? No.. red engine Yes..

the injector bore looked good.. I was able to clean it up with ease.. #6 was running 50 degrees cooler than the other 5 and they were within 10 degrees of each other. As far as the lift pump goes, I can understand youre concern. I did rotate the pump and push and pull on the gear and try to move it sideways, sprayed with windex and not 1 bubble... When I got the heads off. the #6 liner was really shiny, no cross hatching left.. I didnt go back today because of other road calls to go to. I hope I find some cracks too.. yes, its a long shot. The owner, told me an hour ago, to rebuild it.... he's done messing around.. I WILL replace the lift pump!!!.. Thank you for your input, its always welcomed.. jojo

Dammit Man.... Any chance the drive shaft it NOT phased correctly? I went back and read the thread again, and I'm trying to think of any un-asked questions.. jojo

Well, today I pressure tested the fuel galleries and there was no 'leak down' . then I pressure tested the return ports in the heads, no (leak down).. I pulled the fuel lift pump off again and tested it too.. no leaks. I pulled the injectors just because,,,, and there was a little rust in the #6 injector bore, and that cylinder was also running 50 degrees cooler than the other 5. The owner told me today that the issue started shortly after his mechanic replaced the injectors due to heavy smoke coming out of the stack. So I pulled the heads, i will continue tomorrow. It's funny how they had 2 trucks and an excavator, get diesel in the oil, in a 2 month period.. Dumb luck I guess.. I welcome any thoughts/ opinion's/ and guidance... I am still scratching my head on this one.. Jojo

Hi Dave. I just told my wife your story, We both cried some, because we , ( Have never been there) but have known, and in my case (Had lost friends) .. We still ride just a little bit.. I really don't know what to say, other than, we are so glad you are 'Alive' I used to ride 'everywhere' , in all kinds of weather.. just a few days ago I took my sportster out for a run around to do some easy errands.. I get on that thing and I am at home, but I have to be more aware, and ready to 'crack' the throttle, to get away from a dumbass, and at times,,,, back off and change lanes when I can to get away from a cell phone driver, etc:.... I know that when I put my wife on the the back of her Tri-Glide, I do the best I can to be safe.. I don't carry her on my Softail Duece since we got the Trike. I would like to think we are safer on the Trike... However... are any of us 'Rider's' really safe any more?? Jojo

it is an ISO plug. it can be used for any single electric powered part of the trailer. It carries a lot of amps. lets say you are pulling a short dump trailer, it can power the vibrator under the bed. or at that height, maybe it powered a tarp motor for the trailer. My guess is there is a switch in the cab, that goes to a relay similar to a starter relay for a lawn tractor, somewhere near the batteries, and the big wire comes off the relay to the ISO plug. Of course there are a bunch of uses, some more guys will post on this.. jojo

You are exactly right M.C. !! They are putting fear into all of the weak minded people,, These sheep are a disgrace.. I really hope that 'Segregation' in Many forms comes back !! I would love to go to places that I want to go to without being force fed the progressive B.S. and equally, I want the progressives to have their own places to go to.. then we will get along,,, you go your way, and i'll go mine... no harm no foul... Jojo

I beleive I still have effects from the 'Kung Flu'.. dizzy day's, or fatigue, or forgetfulness.. I cant imagine im ready to be senile yet... but??? who knows.. jojo

Thanks 'F'.. I pulled the fuel pump and put shop air to the inlet and capped the outlet. i adjusted the shop air down.. there was no air leak. so I figured it is good.. I actually did this last week on an ASET-C, and the pump seal bled air like a stuck pig.. i took that pump apart to find the impellor was grinding into the housing.. That engine got 'washed'. I am currently rebuilding it.. Same customer, 3 different units put fuel in the crankcase in 2 weeks.. jojo

yep, and the pump is good, EUP's are re-ringed, and the EUP bores were good, as far as injector caps.. no leaks, I ran the engine up to temp with the valve covers off, and saw no fuel bubbling around the caps... I hope the new regulator that dropped fuel pressure from 125 PSI to 70 PSI, is the fix.. This engine is not smoking, it was just raising the oil level with diesel.. We'll see.. I will keep posting.. thank you for responding... jojo

Shoot, I forgot to say, it is NOT smoking...

Hi guy's.. So I was given the task of finding out how the oil level rose up due to diesel in the crankcase.. I got this job after a few other issues occurred. I learned that it was smoking heavy, so they replaced the injectors. Well I found out yesterday , when I pulled #6 injector due to low temp on the cyl. by 50 degrees, it was rusted and not new... and a newbie was doing the repairs with no real guidance.. and he doesnt speak English.. I asked about the EUP's? The owner said #3 broke a bolt and moved.. new bolts but no new orings.. Ok, so I go back to that EUP, pull it and re-ring it.. They run the truck for part of the day, and oil level is 1" over full. So they give it back to me... I re-ring the other 6 EUP's and then check fuel pressure.. I did not check fuel pressure first, for my own reason's.. When I check fuel pressure, it is 125 PSI.. Today I changed the oil and filters, set the level to the full line, and put a new 60 PSI regulator on it.. I ran the engine and fuel pressure was almost 70 PSI.. No sweat.. So tomorrow they will run the truck to see how it does. I couldnt drive it for an hour, because I am building an ASET-C as well, and they didnt want me riding around... . So my question is... Barring a major issue like a crack somewhere.. How else could the crankcase get diesel contamination.. I figured the high fuel pressure was pushing it passed the lower EUP o-rings.. I don't get stumped often, but on this one, because 2 people were on it and one cant speak english.. I don't have the whole story.. I pulled the valve covers and ran the engine and watched the injector plugs for leaks and they were good. ok.. I will stop here and wait for some other ideas... Thanks guy's, Jojo

oh Hell... I think I said that recently.... Heck I know I did... (2 shey)... sorry, i dont know how to spell it... ...jojo

What's the matter, TJC... lost for word's?? 🤣 jojo

excuse me? but what engine are we talking about??

that lever should still be available at your local pump shop... just for kicks, do a 'Halo test' on a piece of cardboard.. put a decent drop of the engine oil on the cardboard and watch for a halo to form around the outside of the droplet.. if one forms quickly, (within seconds) the oil is saturated. if it is slow to form, then mabey you dont have a lot of fuel in the oil.. of course oil analisys is the best way. jojo

gosh,,, I would like to help you, but I dont have the time to write the book... are you able to read the svc book and sum up your own approach. are you replacing the top gears, (Bevel pinion and Bevel gear)? they are always replaced as a pair.. and there should be a measurment scribed into the pinion.. you can take the measurement from the old pinion, and do the math to help get you close to the shim thickness needed. basicaly subtract the smaller from the larger, and that will be the shim adjustment needed. (in a perfect world) but it will get you close if not right on the money.. also the shim rings are expensive.. I have cut my own shims out of shim paper and added them to the existing shim ring, provided I had to decrease bearing pre-load.. I get my shim paper from my local rebuilder shop.. .002"/ .003"/ and .004".. cuts easy with a scissor, just like in art class.. jojo I have to go check the grill.. got chicken cookin...

ok, well, just keep us posted, the best you can.. Someone will jump in, and give a good approach.. jojo

from what I understand, there are no women or men anymore... so, I guess there may not be a problem.. we'll see... Of course only a crazy Man would mess with a creature that can bleed for 5 days and not 'Die'.... jojo

I think its just a puzzle.. they are in order 1-6,, front to back. the last one I did, I had new lines and still had to mock them up individually to be sure.. (Ambach pump). the part numbers were Volvo numbers and I learned that part of the number was the position, however, someone took a few of mine out of the bags, so I had to build the puzzle. There are a bunch of guys here that could do a better job of helping you.. of course if a line has been bent, that will surely interfere. I cant remember if #5 goes in first, and then 4 and 6... anyway, I bet Glenn chimes in on this, theres a few others as well... jojo