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Joey Mack

BMT Benefactor
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Everything posted by Joey Mack

  1. Oh Hell !!! Is that a Mortar ??
  2. I own the rear main seal installer.. it works just fine..
  3. Well, if you want to make a million dollars with that truck.... Start with 2 million... Run away, run far away....
  4. the water filter just takes a small sample of water.. I highly doubt the issue is there.. Yes, cleaning/ rodding the radiator can prove well. Another possiblilty is pump cavitation. as you go along on this, I recommend you get the 2 pump gaskets, and pull the pump and inspect the impeller and the housing. When looking at the housing, ( the part that stays mounted to the engine) you are looking for pitting and grooves caused by air in the cooling system.. if you find that, you will need a new housing, cavitation will reduce coolant flow enough to raise engine temp.
  5. either oil pump will do good. I have used both.. however, the last PAI oil pump I used ran about 7PSI less than Mack's. This is based on comparing several engine builds.. 70+ PSI on a fresh build with a Mack pump is common, 60+ PSI is also good, but .... on the low side the PAI pump showed around 32PSI at low idle. still not bad... JoeH's CAC tester is decent and easy to make.. just be sure to tighten the clamps really tight. The caps will shoot out if not tight..
  6. Yes. However there is a spec for re- use..
  7. I wish you the Best !! Jojo keep us posted..
  8. Well Straydog, I appreciate the fact that you want to get it re-built.. Please make sure the shop knows how to do Mack engines. especially setting the liners to the correct height. and ask if they have a counter bore cutter in the case the shelves are pitted out to the edge.
  9. I just drink Busch Light because its just OK and cheap. I do like PBR at times, and I really like yuengling, just to 'Cheap' to pay for it.
  10. you dont have to remove the CAC. just spray with soapy water.. there usually crack on the right side near the top and along the weld on the tank.. Just like Joeh said.
  11. Yes it is, but they have yet to have a ''Switch hitter'' advertise for this brew,,,, until then, I'm good..
  12. No Bud Light in this house... just sayin'
  13. its been below 20 degrees around here this week, and will be for the net few days.. My truck doesnt make heat very good so I thought I might recycle some boxes and make a shield to help raise the temp. in Old Blue.. It folds down for warmer days..
  14. yes,, especially in re-man heads.. I think they werent fully drilled through and you can punch out the slug if you put the stud in too far.. I think i remember that 🤔
  15. yes, the lower exhaust stud holes are open. they go into the pushrod bore.. with this being said, if you re-seal/replace them be sure to avoid running those studs too deep. you WILL hit the pushrod.. the stud end in the head is about 3/4''.. if you decide to pull the heads, before you do, get a dozen M16 x 75mm long bolts, and large washers the same size as a half dollar. you will use these to hold the liners down. this way when you are rotating the crank to inspect the liners, you wont risk the chance of moving a liner. It's rare, but possible.. Jojo
  16. just look at cross hatching.. if there is some left, just hone them and GO!.. the new rings will make up the difference. it will run fine.. you may have to trim the carbon ridge at the top of the liner, but that is common for liner re-use.. before you pull the heads, come back for more advice..
  17. with a bore mic.. pull the wrist pins and inspect the bushings, if they are good, just hone the liners and re-ring your pistons and put them back in.. all of what he (fjh) said about cost and usage is real time thinking.. he's right.. jojo
  18. straydog... did you forget to post something?? jojo
  19. you are very kind.. To me, this world of trucks and truck people is a Family.. Thank you sir.. Jojo
  20. The dealership, is going to try to sell a ''Basic'' to you.. I wouldnt expect them to have a knowledgeable re-builder in house. also, if its a Mack dealer, they are going to tell you that the re-man center doesnt have any E-7's and they want yours to re-build, and it will be 6 months till it's done. I dont know what is available to you as far as skilled shops, so forgive me if i'm out to lunch..
  21. have you considered replacing the valve seals? you can do it with the heads on the engine..
  22. It sounds like you did your homework :).
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