JoeH

Correction I believe it's called "gland" nut, not "glad" nut.

Belt will squeal in lower gears, high RPM when it works hard pulling air. When you're in higher gears it shouldn't squeal, as the fan speed becomes more closely matched to wind speed. It shouldn't squeal at all, but a belt that's a little loose will act like the above.

You don't really want more gears, that motor makes 90%+ torque from ~1100rpms to 2100. In between gears are a waste. Only thing I can recommend is source an engine brake for it to cut down on shift time. It'll make the hills a breeze.

Boost leak would also explain why this truck runs hot on the pyro, even though it ever smokes... Not hard to hit 1100°+ climbing a hill, even with 4 inch straight through muffler.

I do hear a boost leak on occasion. Doesn't always do it, but sometimes there's a faint audible leak that builds with the turbo. Is there a particular engine degree to close off enough valves that the pressure test won't leak through the valves? Also, how do you close off the CAC turbo-side? This truck also has a Cold Start bypass setup to bypass the CAC. It has a small crossover pipe coming from between the turbo and CAC with an air operated butterfly valve, and another butterfly valve after the CAC. This system effectively shuts off air flow through the CAC so it sucks in warm turbo air. Is it common for the cold start plumbing to generate a leak?

Bought a harbor freight 1 inch gun, and 10" long. Claims it goes to 1500 ft lbs. Our other 1" gun had the long shank, wouldn't fit under there. Ran the gun til it pretty much doesn't tighten any more...

@raybing

Operator error, it got fixed, or it got sold...

Sorry that's in the topic title. E7-350 mechanical. 1995. Eaton 8ll.

@Joey MackMack what do the u bolts torque to on 44k rears

Jake brake is also an absolute joke.

We have had this truck for 10+ years, and have never seen much boost pressure out of it. It briefly hits 23 psi at 1700 rpms, but more than 50 rpms one way or the other and it drops to 20. It gets where it's going, but I'm used to 25 psi from 1200 rpms to 2100 on our endt676 motors. Is my '95 about right? Doesn't smoke, idles clean. 22k+ hours on it, 276k miles. It's a concrete truck, lots of local operating time with minimal mileage.

Our carriers get layered in cement, I always cringe at the idea of pulling carriers on our trucks. Access is 100% from underneath on our trucks.

We had the driver side floating above the cribbing, resting on jacks on the elephant pads while we drive the air chisel in between the saddle and lowest spring, right where the u bolt passage is. Had to cut the u bolt pretty low to get access to that spot. Took us all of 10 minutes to get the truck to drop off the spring onto the cribbing. Always important to remember that Mack trucks HANG from the rear springs!

It figures that when a thread pops up about trunnion bushings my truck would blow out the cover plate of one spring saddle! This truck does a LOT of twisting to back into residential driveways, so the trunnion bushings have been on my mind for a while. saw this when I was sitting in someone's driveway today. The nut stripped off so e of the threads on the spindle, blew out the cover plate and has gone by the wayside somewhere with the thrust washer, lock plate, etc.passenger side elephant pads are up on blocks, as is the driver side trunnion bar. Torched the u bolts inside and out, jacked up the driver side elephant pads, drove an air chisel between the saddle and the springs, then lifted the spring way up so we could reach above saddle/below spring to torch the inner u bolt out so we could slide the saddle off. Cleaned up the spindle, chased Walmart (damn auto correct, should read "what". I'll just leave that there...) was left of the threads and.... Assembly time: Bergeys only had one u bolt, they'll have the other one in the morning. About 2 hours to get all that done between my dad and I.

That's unfortunate...

Hardest task is removing the + nut. We had to use oxy acetylene torch to heat up the steering knuckle so we could turn the nut.

A tow to the mechanic to repair this thing is cheaper than what you're likely to do to it next time you start it...

Is the water going on the ground or into your oil pan... Sounds like you need your engine torn apart before you send a connecting rod out the side of your block or break your crankshaft...

https://www.tillmantools.com/Kent-Moore-J-44004-King-Pin-Cap-Tool-Kit-p/kmtj-44004.htm Here's the + nut kit, comes with 2 sizes, for the lighter axles and the bigger axles.

My 1979 has same style of king pins, Mack has been using them forever.

I'm no expert, but I'd be surprised if the beam is shot. The kingpin usually "locks" to the beam on the tapered center section. It's the steering knuckle that rotates on the kingpin and takes the wear. Removal sucks, there's a special + shaped socket for them. Tool also comes with a thread chaser to clean it up before reinstall. My dealership was nice enough to lend me theirs a couple years ago for my '95 RD688S. Disassembly is basically block up axle, remove wheel and brakes, remove cotter pin, remove + nut and top cap, place an old kingpin on top of the kingpin you're trying to remove and beat it with a 6 or 8 lb sledge hammer. It'll drop out eventually. Remove the upper and lower bushings, polish off any burs, install new bushings, thrust bearing, pin, etc. Install + nut and cap, (cap is supposed to get tack welded on so grease pressure doesn't push it off...) The purpose of the + nut is to set the spacing of the steering knuckle in relation to the axle beam. The beam is supposed to "Float" in between the upper and lower knuckle bushings without making contact. Book spec's so many thousandths of an inch of gap. Tools needed: usual wheel/brake tools, + Nut tool kit Big ratchet or gun to spin + Nut Grinder if top cap is tacked on Big sledge hammer and punch Normal hammer and socket or chisel to remove bushings Probably missed a few things...

Mack doesn't make cams for these engines anymore, don't know if PAI does. I think there's a cam shop in the Midwest (berry cams maybe?) That can weld and regrind a bad lobe.

Oil pan and valve covers show you pretty much everything you need to see on an engine. Pull valve covers and check your pushrods and rocker arm, look for a cylinder way out on adjustment. Pull your oil pan to see the condition of the bottom end, look up at the camshaft and check to see if you wiped a lobe off with a broken lifter face.

We had one of our endt676 engines drop a valve seat out on one cylinder once. Hell of a sound. It was fine when I shut the truck off one day, but when I started it up the seat must have dropped in while it was shut off. I kept the piston, it has chunks embedded in the crown. Too cool of a paper weight to pass up!