JoeH

I'm in Joey's court on this one. Dropping the oil pan costs a gasket and shows any broken bits that find their way to the oil. You're already changing the oil, you're just spending a few more bucks for an oil pan gasket and the mechanics time checking the crank. You'll have eyes on the cam lobes from underneath too to see any gouging and scratching. I'd do this before wasting money on rebuilding a fuel pump. Would be a shame to drop 3-5k rebuilding the pump to find out you've eaten a camshaft too.

Check the oil level before you drain it, if it was running on oil then the level would likely be low?

I'm guessing lines hooked up wrong because they had the trans out for the clutch. But my 8ll had a cracked combination cylinder piston. It's a disc that slides the hi lo shifter fork back and forth.

The pump is live, always on. On trash trucks, the pump has a protection circuit. If the hydraulic system loses oil, a butterfly valve closes and oil is circulated through a metal pipe from the pressure side of the pump to the suction side. This way you can limp the truck along without destroying a $3,000 (guessing) pump.

I have a 2003 MR688S also that had a pump on the front. It has the tall radiator like you mentioned with a hole through the middle. let me know if you want pictures, but it is a different model altogether.

I have a DM686sx that was a barrel truck. 1980. Has a monster bumper, I'll try and get a picture of the radiator/pump bracket.

If you can, get a matched engine/transmission. I know on my mr688 it has a different flywheel and flywheel housing for the auto. A full donor truck would be the best way to go.

Also, the max hp you can go on a stock hd4560 is I think 375hp. Or at least thats the highest Mack offered with them?

I think it's largely dependent on what years the specific model trans you want was offered. I have a 2003 mr688 former trash truck now turned concrete mixer truck that has the HD4560 paired to an etech AI-350. I think trash trucks are generally spec'd with top of the line powertrains. Don't know what year superliners you're looking at, but I know the R models are virtually unchanged for a long time. I'm sure the brackets exist to match whatever engine transmission you want into a superliner. Mack was pretty good about using the same components across multiple models. We have a 1976 U model that had the same exact frame rails as our 1979 R model. The front half of one rail got transplanted into the R model to replace a vertical crack in the R model frame.

No reason you can't drop an etech engine and an Allison hd4560 into a superliner. A trash truck (mr688) would probably be your best bet on a donor truck. You better be good with computers and wiring harnesses though. Etechs use an engine computer, vehicle computer, and abs. The Allison has its own set of computers and shift selector that need to stay integrated with the VMAC III system of the Mack.

Dumb question, what's the condition of your air filter? Clogged filter can cause a bit of oil sucking in weird places....

I've got an endt676 that did more or less the same thing. Except it doesn't even have a thermostat installed. It's just a yard tractor used for blowing cement into our silo. Engine cranks to 1700 rpms to operate the PTO. We put a solid (fixed) fan on the water pump, now it heats to 155 and stays there.

Mine didn't smoke either; don't need to remove from chassis, just need to undo plumbing at either end.

Mine didn't trail smoke, but it did run hot.

Pressure regulator setting on the hydraulic valve needs to be adjusted?

My e7-350 used to only hit 25. Finally pressure tested the CAC and it had a crack vertically along the seam between the passenger side and the cooling crossover tubes. Symptoms were low boost, high pyro temps, 1000-1200 degrees easy. I'll bet your CAC issues aren't over, I'll bet you have a cracked CAC. You can buy PVC pipe end caps from Home Depot, install a valve stem in one and put each one in one of the rubber hoses on the CAC. Try pressurizing it. Don't go above 35 psi, but if it's cracked you'll hear it right away. My truck makes 31 psi now, pyro tops out around 900 degrees.

You can buy a PVC pipe end cap that should fit into an intake boot somewhere; install a valve stem into it and pressurize with shop air. Does the turbo have a wastegate? Could have something going on there...

Common on these at this age for the plastic fuel return lines that jump from injector to injector to crack and let air in when off. Any dampness up there indicates a problem. Strange that it hard starts immediately after shutdown but restarts after it's cooled down. Worn injector pump barrels?... We have an old Ford diesel pickup that got a "rebuilt" fuel pump that wouldn't start when hot. If you dumped a cup of cold water on the injector pump it would chill down the pump housing on the injector plungers and then it'd start. Pump shop gave us another pump free of charge.

Crazier yet, there's people referred to as "Furries": people who think they're animals. There's kids whose parents advocate for schools to have litter boxes for their kids because their kids identify as Cats... Or dogs, or whatever else. ER nurse we know has run into this in the ER...

Only ones pissed off are ones dumb enough not to understand that Abortion isn't in the Constitution so the Federal Govt has no business making Roe the "law of the land". "We the people" decide what our govt's Rights are through the Constitution, not the other way around. "We" never gave the US the authority to make Abortion Laws, so it's finally been struck down Federally and States can make whatever restrictive laws they want on it. Personally, I'd love Abortion to be outlawed entirely, but striking down Roe is still a huge win in my book. How can you kill your own child?

FYI, the charge air cooler tends to crack. If the truck builds less than 30 psi boost and runs over 1000 degrees on the pyrometer then you need to be looking your charge air cooler for cracks. You can buy a couple pvc pipe plugs to clamp into the rubber intake tubes. Install a tire valve stem into one, and pressurize not more than 30 psi. Look for leaks!

There's a fitting on the bottom radiator hose. Or it's on the bottom or left side of the radiator. If you don't care about making a mess, you can pull the compressor hose, but those tend to be very stiff. If you use the proper drain into a clean bucket, then you can re use the coolant.

Around here, there's a stack in every Wawa lobby. Always relaxing to browse through all the used trucks on your lunch break. Also good to keep an eye on current prices of equipment so you can budget for what it'll cost you when you need to upgrade