JoeH

The deterioration also happens slowly, so you adjust over a long period of time. Abnormal becomes normal, and it becomes normal to keep driving as your body becomes less capable.

I heard a study on the radio a couple years ago. Babies' eyes/brains process a ton of images per second. The older you get: the less images per second your eye/brain process. Reality is, as you get older your body becomes less capable. Some people's bodies deteriorate earlier than others, so I think it's foolish to stamp an age restriction. If you can pass an honest Medical Card Exam (USA requirement, don't know what you Aussies have) then you're good to go. That being said, you have to be an honest critic of yourself. I had a little old lady pull out in front of me from a side street once, almost T boned her in my empty triaxle. I slammed on the brakes and left tire skids. That's a lady that obviously couldn't pass a vision test but the bloke in the DMV last time she had to renew her license didn't have the heart to tell her. We've all been there, driving behind an elderly person driving 15 mph under the speed limit because they have cataracts and have to use peripheral vision to see straight ahead. As a "young bloke" trucker whose been driving with his almost 70 yr old dad for 15 years I can tell you vision aside: muscle memory is huge. My dad has been in his same 1979 R686ST since 1986 with a few other trucks coming and going in our fleet. The body knows what it knows. He'll take the old truck and work it right to it's limits. We're trying to finish rebuilding a mixer for a 1988 RD690S so we can retire his truck while there's still something left of it worth restoring for shows. Also, regarding texting & driving: I see just as many middle age and elderly looking at their phones in the car as young people.

Slow down on a CalAmp delete, that's your ELD compliance right there. If you're operating locally and don't need it then great, delete it. Don't assume it's the problem til you've done your homework. What blink codes do you get from the Engine Malfunction Light? Fire up the truck. When the lightning bolt comes on: press/hold the set/decel button til the lightning bolt goes off. It will then blink a 2 digit code at you. Write it down, press it again. Keep doing that until it starts repeating codes. Post the blink codes here, we can provide you with the data on the codes.

Vital info! Thanks for including it! Joey and fjh are going to steer you right.

Queers just became the hot kidnap targets of our enemy nations.

Those relays are junk. The ones from Mack last... 2 years at best on my '95 R model...

2001 saw the changeover to the left side ecm I believe. With info provided initially I'm thinking this is a simple power issue. He said engine dies, as well as battery voltage. This tells me there's a power supply fault. Do these use the relay under the ash tray for power like the pre-Etech R models? Check your ignition switch circuitry.

I think the dent you're referring to is actually the side of the box, where it rubbed the tire/rim bead when the bolts bent on the spring's way down. Sorry I'm a little late to the game on this one! Brake shoes look fine to me! They wear thinner on the ends of the shoes where you can see in the picture. Out in the middle of the shoes is where you check wear limits.

I'm guessing that's a valve head?...

If you're not afraid of computer engines then I'd recommend 2001 as the best year ETECH engines. (In my opinion). Pre 2001 had the eecu mounted next to frame rail under turbo. Loose/worn engine mounts could allow engine to rock and dent side of eecu, destroying it. Late 2002 & 2003 introduced some emissions BS. Fortunately, the CV713's emission components can be swapped with pre emission year parts. Camshaft, exhaust manifold, turbo. The CH emissions system used an EGR system. Can't be deleted.

https://www.truckpaper.com/listings/trucks/for-sale/217837017?utm_source=TruckPaper&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=mobile_share&utm_content=details_link I'm gonna go out on a limb and guess this is the truck you looked at?

What state are you located in? Best thing to do is download Truck Paper app on your phone and sift through to find a bunch of trucks you want to look at that are at the same seller. Make a day trip & get to see a bunch of trucks. Downside of what you're looking for: double frame rust jacking.

#1 look on the valve cover engine tag, if it says "Remack" then the engines been rebuilt by Mack. #2 +1 on always dump the air when dumping. Air ride is not as good off-road as camelback. It doesn't articulate well when going over rough terrain. It takes time for air to leave one bag and head to another, whereas camelback just seesaws instantly. #3 not familiar with 9 speed low end ratios. You really only have one usable reverse gear, the high range reverse is way too fast to be functional unless you're on flat blacktop with no obstacles. There is nothing better than the 2 stick transmission you already have for off-road. #4 I know what you mean with the Jake brake for shifting. My first daily driver was a 1979 R686ST. 283hp, 2 stick trans with a Jake. The 9 speed ratios are much closer. You don't need the Jake to shift, it'll just screw you up. It should only be 400 rpm drops between gears, not the 800+ you are used to.

I'd redesign it to look.an awful lot like this: Of course it'd have to have a high pressure common rail fuel system or something modern like, and some emissions BS but I think a lot of us would hop on board with this "redesign"....

Does your engine tag say ETECH 350 or AI-350? 2003 started the AI-350, which used a restrictive exhaust manifold and turbo and an extra bump on the exhaust cam lobes to make the engine suck exhaust back into the engine on the intake stroke. If I recall properly, the AI-350 was actually introduced mid year in 2002. If you have one of these then you can delete the garbage components and install non garbage versions from earlier years. There's a thread on here somewhere with all the info on it.

My mechanical 1995 e7-350 makes 33 psi once I replaced the charge air cooler. Had a crack down the right front between the crossover lines and the tank. Used to top out at 25 psi for years, til it started dipping down to 22. Pyro temps had always been a bit high, wasn't uncommon to push 1200 pulling a hard hill. Now I'm getting 33 psi and it has to be a long hard hill to hit 1000 on the pyro.

My dad bought this welder for $400.00 a few years ago. Sits in my back yard. (I live at work 😃)

Check your boost, you should be seeing 30+psi stock. You could be losing power quietly. Also check your pyro temps, if they're high (1100+) then it's starving for air.

2001 had a fuse box under the hood, top center by the firewall.

I bought the harbor freight "titanium" plasma cutter a couple years ago. Best $1,000 we've spent in a while. Runs on 120 or 240. Almost never use the oxyacet torch any more.

You'll get about a year or so out of the "auto set" before that feature fails. Then you'll be manually adjusting it. If it has a reference chart for amperage and wire speed settings depending on material thickness then SAVE the chart!!! I use our chart all the time. If I remember from class on TIG, you need a dedicated grinder wheel for the tungsten tips so you don't contaminate them, and you had to be very careful with how you grind the tips. The abrasions left on the tip literally throw the electrons, and if they aren't even then it will throw the arc sideways. Welder I know has a friend that can tig weld around corners using mirrors. I've done that mig welding, it's easier than I thought it would be. But the weld spatter is bad for the mirror glass, lol ...

Easiest truck we have ever worked on. Flip the cab forward and you have full access to every side of the engine. Transmission too.

Cab is suspended from timbers spanning across top of A frame to our pallet shelving.

DO NOT APPLY HEAT TO THE RAIL! They're heat treated. There's special processes to follow when heat is involved with rails. Every manufacturer has their own guidelines for weld repairs to frames to keep heat stresses from occuring. I have to reiterate that your rails haven't sprung closed yet because there's still rust in there. splitting the rails is the only way to get it out.

Your frame hasn't sprung back closed because you haven't gotten all the rust out yet. I do know one shop that left the frame in the truck, and separated the rails from back to cab, sandblasted and painted what they had open, then bolted it back together. End result was good, but I'd worry about kinking the rails if leaving the cab forward bolted together.