JoeH

How much you want for that roof panel, where are you located? We have a 1979 R686ST that we want to retire and give a little TLC.

Glad you found the problem. Is this truck a recent acquisition? Or something you've owned a long time that tends to sit? If it's a recent acquisition then it sounds like previous owner was a bit careless with his fuel. Wouldn't be a bad idea to change all the fluids just to be safe.

http://www.berrycammn.com/ Someone mentioned on here a few years ago that these guys can weld a new lobe on an grind it to shape. If your machine shop can't save your cam then maybe these guys can.

Front of engine, driver side. Basically the housing that the upper radiator hose comes out of. Check your turbo boost, a cracked charge air cooler will cause elevated pyrometer temps, leading to elevated head temps, and thus elevated coolant temps. Not sure if/how that EECU reacts to reduced boost.

I'm assuming 1125, same as endt676

Modern biodiesel grows algae, so your tank suction line could be clogged with that. Or you're outa fuel? Sucking air in somewhere?

That it was running fine until you stuck it in gear tells me engine should be fine, unless you broke a crankshaft getting it in gear with a stuck clutch.

On the inline mechanical engines I've heard the fuel rack can get sticky from sitting. If you disconnect the fuel shutoff linkage from the lever, does it have any resistance? I'm just guessing, I've never worked on an e9 nor do I know how the fuel pumps function compared to inlines.

A zip tie around each lifter should create just enough friction to hold each lifter in place if I recall correctly. Been a few years since we've swapped cams in our endt676, but we've done it a few times, pays to have a few spare engines to pull cams and lifters from...

The black smoke seems odd, but does it trigger a fault code? Does the lightning bolt dash light work? I chased a similar situation on my 2003 mr688, it wound up being the EECU fuse/circuit breaker was loose.

You need to check the spin direction of the PTO. If it's a PTO on the back of one of the counter shafts then I believe it spins opposite of typical pumps. You would need to talk to a hydraulic component retailer to check your pump on your setup. Verifying direction of rotation is important. As is communicating it to the pump shop...

Trying to chase an oil leak on the front of our 2003 mr688s. ETECH 350. What's involved in pulling the timing cover to reseal it? Truck needs a new radiator some time anyway as this one is weeping the faintest amount, so access will be great if I combine tasks. Anything I should look for while in there? Truck has 27,000+ hours, 400k+ miles.

We have a JD450B, motor is great, but dont let the final drives sit unused. Ours sits a lot and the final drive clutch packs glued together. Someone told me you fill the housing with diesel and let it soak into the clutch packs, but we haven't tried it though. And be careful with that neutral safety plate, never crawl under a running machine. The linkage can wear out enough that it'll drop into gear even with that plate set over the shifter.

Gorgeous truck, post this in the Electrical section of the forum.

Dealer item I expect. Though dealer may or may not understand how to look up the VIN, the last 30 years of VINs they just want the last 6 digits.

Ever find the leak?

Quick! Someone hand them a gun!!

I stand corrected; I guess I should correct it to the won't?

PG Adams can't do Mack frames, they can't do the splay around engine trans. DM and R frames are different.

Boss could be wacko. I'm just saying, our 95 rd688 got waterlogged once with hood on, because the #6 exhaust manifold mating surface rusted through. We were lucky there wasn't enough water in it to brake the crankshaft.

My 95 E7-350 managed to get #6 water logged once. The manifold gasket surface managed to rust enough that water got in through the seam between cab and hood. My dad took the manifold off, welded it with a cast iron rod, ground it down and it was good as new. Not saying this is your problem, but we did get a ton of rain this weekend here.

If it's cracked then call your Mack dealer and get the part number for the housing, there's a lot of aftermarket supply for them, you just need to Google the part number and pick a supplier. It's a common failure, and there's a lot of auto garbage trucks demanding them. Note the aftermarket part number will be a close match but will be missing one digit. And your old bell housing to flywheel housing bolts likely won't fit, I think the original is metric and the aftermarket is SAE. Or other way around.

Look along the flywheel housing from the starter motor, up over the top to about a 2:00 position. Mack dealer couldn't get one, but I found one aftermarket at a warehouse in Allentown PA, picked it up.about an hour after talking to the guy. I think it was about half the price Mack wanted for it.

This was the start to our Thursday... My cousin was driving when this happened. Brand New tires on brand new rims, second day on the truck. Tire tech put on 8.25"rims, but the counter man ordered them to have 9" rims: 7,500 lb rims vs 10,000 lb rims. Fortunately it failed at 5mph not 50... Shop replaced junk tire and both rims with the right rims that afternoon. I had to make a second trip to the shop to get the torch as the rim bent itself around the backside of the brake drum. When we got it back to the shop and got the other wheel off it was already buckling and had flat spots developing on the inside bead. The tire is still on the axle. Apart from a little damage to the bead surface it held up well...

If it's an auto then you probably have cracked flywheel housings.