JoeH

Bergeys has access to it, it'll be here in about a week. Anxious to see what 350hp feels like, this truck has always run a little hot on the pyro with no more than 25 psi boost.

If you're engine light is working it will power on for a few seconds then go out, assuming there's no active fault. Should look like a lightning bolt. You should have two fuse boxes, one in the glove box the other under the hood. Fire up the truck, look for the fuse that says EECU, wiggle it. I bet your engine will shut down. You'll need to pull that fuse/circuit breaker and squeeze the terminals a little tighter so they get a better grip.

The guy near us closed up his radiator repair and shifted to selling welding supplies. Nowadays radiators are plastic throw-aways, not much business in repair. I'll call him tomorrow and see if he's willing/able.

Charge air cooler leaks like a sieve. Bergeys put in a request to Mack to see if it's available, if it's not then what are my options? RD688S chassis.

Correction I believe it's called "gland" nut, not "glad" nut.

Belt will squeal in lower gears, high RPM when it works hard pulling air. When you're in higher gears it shouldn't squeal, as the fan speed becomes more closely matched to wind speed. It shouldn't squeal at all, but a belt that's a little loose will act like the above.

You don't really want more gears, that motor makes 90%+ torque from ~1100rpms to 2100. In between gears are a waste. Only thing I can recommend is source an engine brake for it to cut down on shift time. It'll make the hills a breeze.

Boost leak would also explain why this truck runs hot on the pyro, even though it ever smokes... Not hard to hit 1100°+ climbing a hill, even with 4 inch straight through muffler.

I do hear a boost leak on occasion. Doesn't always do it, but sometimes there's a faint audible leak that builds with the turbo. Is there a particular engine degree to close off enough valves that the pressure test won't leak through the valves? Also, how do you close off the CAC turbo-side? This truck also has a Cold Start bypass setup to bypass the CAC. It has a small crossover pipe coming from between the turbo and CAC with an air operated butterfly valve, and another butterfly valve after the CAC. This system effectively shuts off air flow through the CAC so it sucks in warm turbo air. Is it common for the cold start plumbing to generate a leak?

Bought a harbor freight 1 inch gun, and 10" long. Claims it goes to 1500 ft lbs. Our other 1" gun had the long shank, wouldn't fit under there. Ran the gun til it pretty much doesn't tighten any more...

@raybing

Operator error, it got fixed, or it got sold...

Sorry that's in the topic title. E7-350 mechanical. 1995. Eaton 8ll.

@Joey MackMack what do the u bolts torque to on 44k rears

Jake brake is also an absolute joke.

We have had this truck for 10+ years, and have never seen much boost pressure out of it. It briefly hits 23 psi at 1700 rpms, but more than 50 rpms one way or the other and it drops to 20. It gets where it's going, but I'm used to 25 psi from 1200 rpms to 2100 on our endt676 motors. Is my '95 about right? Doesn't smoke, idles clean. 22k+ hours on it, 276k miles. It's a concrete truck, lots of local operating time with minimal mileage.

Our carriers get layered in cement, I always cringe at the idea of pulling carriers on our trucks. Access is 100% from underneath on our trucks.

We had the driver side floating above the cribbing, resting on jacks on the elephant pads while we drive the air chisel in between the saddle and lowest spring, right where the u bolt passage is. Had to cut the u bolt pretty low to get access to that spot. Took us all of 10 minutes to get the truck to drop off the spring onto the cribbing. Always important to remember that Mack trucks HANG from the rear springs!

It figures that when a thread pops up about trunnion bushings my truck would blow out the cover plate of one spring saddle! This truck does a LOT of twisting to back into residential driveways, so the trunnion bushings have been on my mind for a while. saw this when I was sitting in someone's driveway today. The nut stripped off so e of the threads on the spindle, blew out the cover plate and has gone by the wayside somewhere with the thrust washer, lock plate, etc.passenger side elephant pads are up on blocks, as is the driver side trunnion bar. Torched the u bolts inside and out, jacked up the driver side elephant pads, drove an air chisel between the saddle and the springs, then lifted the spring way up so we could reach above saddle/below spring to torch the inner u bolt out so we could slide the saddle off. Cleaned up the spindle, chased Walmart (damn auto correct, should read "what". I'll just leave that there...) was left of the threads and.... Assembly time: Bergeys only had one u bolt, they'll have the other one in the morning. About 2 hours to get all that done between my dad and I.

That's unfortunate...

Hardest task is removing the + nut. We had to use oxy acetylene torch to heat up the steering knuckle so we could turn the nut.

A tow to the mechanic to repair this thing is cheaper than what you're likely to do to it next time you start it...

Is the water going on the ground or into your oil pan... Sounds like you need your engine torn apart before you send a connecting rod out the side of your block or break your crankshaft...

https://www.tillmantools.com/Kent-Moore-J-44004-King-Pin-Cap-Tool-Kit-p/kmtj-44004.htm Here's the + nut kit, comes with 2 sizes, for the lighter axles and the bigger axles.

My 1979 has same style of king pins, Mack has been using them forever.