JoeH

One is longer than the other.

I have heard that sometimes the foil from an additive bottle gets into the fuel tank and will clog the fuel suction line intermittently...

I've got 2 square tanks from a 1976 U model you're welcome to. I'm just down 309 in Chalfont PA.

Only reason I knew right away it happened was my dad says he did it once upon a time. Otherwise I would have been scratching my head as to why the 2 stick R made it go forward and D made it go backwards! 10 years later and the truck still runs like a Mack.

We've all done stupid stuff. I managed to get our 1979 R686 Maxidyne engine to run backwards, lol... You can stall the engine out in such a way that the crankshaft "bounces" in the opposite direction and the engine will run backwards.... A quick pull on the stop knob, bump the key, and you're back up and running!

Change your fuel filters? Check suction lines for collapsing?

Lol sounds miserable! Clean your crankcase vent filter. I'm assuming the mp series engines use one. The ETechs use a steel wool donut that clogs up over time. If your vent is plugged up it'll pressurize the crankcase. Even a tiny bit of pressure will cause things to leak.

Valve covers and oil pan show you most of what's going on mechanically. With pressurizing the crankcase I'd pull the oil pan and look at cylinder #1. That's pretty far off on compression, could be something serious going on with that piston/liner.

Pictures would be nice.

Correct. "Low" can be used in hi range in theory. "Low Low" cannot.

I've heard you can use low hole in the high range as an alternative to dipping into 4th, but I've never wanted to risk my transmission by testing the theory. Mine has enough issues hanging up in gear sometimes.

We need a vomit emoji for comments. 🤢🤮

That's not bad; worth saving up a little cash and getting some new harnesses, the old ones look like sh*t.

Transmission and driveshaft need to be rated for increased hp/torque, other than that I'm guessing it takes convincing a dealer to program your EECU to an ami 370...

I have driven a PoS Intertrashional with an 8LL shifted in this order: R. 1/5. 4/8 L. 2/6. 3/7 It was not a pleasant shift pattern, the W from 2-3, 6-7 was sticky and was hard on the shoulder to maneuver.

The truck being a 2000, the only caveat I have for you is the engine computer on the right side: worn rear engine mounts can allow the engine to torque enough to put a dent in the engine computer, frying it. Maintain good bushings in the rear engine mounts. Repair tasks that risk denting that ECU: Changing rear engine mount bushings Removing transmission Make sure any shop you let do these tasks knows to be extra careful they don't fry your ECU by allowing the engine to rock around while loose.

You have 3 reverse speeds, but you are NEVER supposed to shift the range switches while backing up. Range synchronizers aren't designed to work "backwards." You have: Lo-low Reverse, Low Reverse, and Hi Reverse. Hi Reverse will probably never get used unless you are very good with your line of sight going straight back on pavement for like a mile. You'll be using lo-low Reverse for slow detail maneuvers and steep hills and you'll be using Low Reverse when you need your momentum to carry you through a rough patch or you're covering a fairly easy scenario.

It's pretty much a 10 speed. Full end to end shift pattern: Lo-low, Low, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 where the first shift is accomplished by leaving gearahifter in low position and switching the thumb toggle switch while pushing clutch in.

R. 1/5. 3/7 L. 2/6. 4/8 Switch on left is used when you need to set the low range (R and 1-4) down even lower. I'll use it to start out on hills occasionally. NOTE!!! While you are supposed to preselect the Hi/Low range switch to go from 4-5 or 5-4, you CANNOT preselect the lo-lo switch. Treat the lo-lo switch as a shift in a synchronized transmission! Example: from stop, start in low low. Accelerate, punch clutch and hit lo-lo switch to "rear", release clutch. This will switch you from low low range to low range. You can't use low low range and HI range.

We have a retired 1980 dm686sx. Has 2 rails, each is 3/8ths. That's 3/4" of rail on each side.

@Ricky Beals if that's a true Heavy Single then you need to buy that truck. Take a tape measure with you and measure frame depth top to bottom and also measure how thick the steel is that's used for the frame. Post them here and we can tell you whether it's heavy or not. I think a standard double frame is a 1/4" rail and a 3/16ths rail, with a 10-11" overall frame depth. A "heavy single" rail should be minimum 3/8" thick I think.

We're all talking from different states. Fed govt drafts laws and states adopt them by and large but they'll adapt/modify as they see fit for their own purposes. Every state has their own nuances for licenses. In PA we get a notice every 2 years that if we don't submit a medical card before the old ones expiration date then our CDL endorsement will be dropped. Doesn't matter if you were "grandfathered" in, my dad got his CDL in the early 70s. He still has to get his medical card renewed I think every year because he's on blood pressure meds. Federal government regulates intERstate commerce, not intrastate commerce. They set the rules for going between states, but have no business telling states how to handle stuff in their own state.

We have one we use every day. PTO takes off the main box, works in gears 1-5, with the directional in Neutral. That's with a side mounted pto. We bought a 1988 Mack with a 7 speed single stick, has the PTO on the rear of one of the counter shafts. Trans needs to be in neutral for that one.

Not in PA; gotta have medical card to keep your CDL. However, you can get an exemption from penndot that states you aren't currently employed to do CDL work, and thus you keep your CDL but can't drive trucks til you get your medical card. How hobby trucks play in... Not sure.