JoeH

I was always taught to rotate the engine the last few degrees to TDC in the same rotation that it turns when running so that all the timing gear lash is taken up "properly."

In general, you'd put an engine at 1-6, and intake / exhaust rockers should be loose for either 1 or 6. The loose rockers indicate that the cylinder is at TDC, and you adjust the valve lash on that cylinder to tag specs. If the valves were set too tight last time or the engine is still hot then there may not be any valve lash, but one of the springs on the other cylinder for the paired number should be partially depressed. Thus, you figure out who is at TDC. Older Mack's the firing order is cast into the side of the block, not sure about newer ones. Start with whoever is at TDC and continue through the firing order from there.

Switch could just be loose. May just need to thread it back in. Could also be a broken wire or terminal in the switch.

Interesting that you have a 2 valve tip turbine engine in an 86!

Truck is airborne going over those tracks!

That's impressive detail. Should be called Aussie Truck Simulator though to run air cleaners on the left.

Sorry to dig up an old thread but I'd love more info on full lockers. My `95 rd688s is terrible in slick mud. It has the inter axle lock, but not an interwheel lock. What would I have to do add interwheel locks? Can I just swap pumpkins? Is the interwheel lock air operated? I have 44k camelback.

Gotta realize most of what you hear coming out of war torn countries run by dictators is propaganda. Though Islam tends to promote fanaticism, the middle east is fractured and run by local warlord and religious fanatics. Yes they hate America but they're often too busy oppressing their own people and fighting each other to be a major threat to America. Killing major terrorists is necessary to protect the world.

Frame in good shape?

Ewwww yes they come through our yard for the dumpsters, and sometimes you can smell the juices for hours.

Not sure where in PA you are but Associated truck parts has relined weird brake shoes for us in the past, may be able to do your clutch disks too. They have a location in Gilbertsville and another in Warminster. Might have one or two other locations, not sure.

Definitely needs a good bath. Hope none of the clutch lining falls off during the process, looks like there's a bit of shrapnel hanging out there

I like the new style hood R models, but unless you have wide steer tires the hood looks weird. The old style hood really made standard 11R22.5 and 24.5s look good. Wouldnt mind seeing that green R model sitting there!

Flip the castleated but upside down and set it flush with stud before smacking it. Gives you more surface area to distribute the hammer blow, yielding less damage to nut & stud.

My 350 pulls more like a Chihuahua than a bulldog... But it moves along well enough

I have a mechanical e7-350, 1995. Almost 20,000 hours and the engine hasn't needed a thing yet.

On most engines, pulling valve covers and oil pan gives you visual access to almost the entire engine, and it doesn't cost anything other than a few gaskets and your time. If it's still making a ticking noise after you've adjusted the valves then start cracking injector lines to look for a weak injector. I had on my E7-350 a noise that sounded like the engine brake coming on, but only above 1700 rpms. Turned out to be a fuel filter clogging up. Did it again a few days later, and a second set of filters cleared it up for good!

It perplexes me that an exhaust system is so problematic. It's not that hard to buy a few 45s, 90s, some straight pipe, some clamps and some flex pipe & get the mig welder out and make what you need. Reinforces my thoughts on todays "mechanics." They're not mechanics, they're "parts replacement specialists." CPU tells them what to replace and they replace it. Ask them to use their imagination and route a 5 inch pipe under the cab and up the back and they're useless...

DEF causes turbo to spool. Not familiar with Mack emissions trucks though. Don't know when DEF started...

I've got a 450b that starts about that good at 25 degrees

Can't help you, but on Allison automatics you can set the max allowed gear with the arrow buttons. A must with an automatic when driving steep downgrades. Just keep your speed down and use the snub brake technique til you find the problem, don't want anyone killed.

So 104 tips, is that 104 hp per nozzle? That'd be a peak potential of 624 hp? Unless you plan on running 600 hp through it why would you put nozzles that big on?

We're big on brand loyalty here. We have a set of forks for the crane... (In addition to a '60s Oliver White forklift)

No but thats a sharp looking truck

How cold was it when you tried to start it? Diesel fuel forms drops of gel that clog your filters around 17 degrees F and doesn't thaw back out until around 34 degrees. If you last fueled up in the summer or fall then you don't have the winter additives that prevent gelling. You're going to have to warm the truck up. My brother got fuel for his 7.3 ford last winter at a small station and it gelled up on him going down the road after 30 minutes. He had to tow it into my garage to warm it up so he could get it running. Not all gas stations run winter additives, so be prepared to add your own next time. Also modern biodiesel forms algae after a year or less of sitting. It will clog all sorts of annoying spots. They make algicide fuel treatments, but it only kills/prevents algae, it doesn't dissolve existing algae.