JoeH

Freightliner with a CAT I drive for winter work revs up after a minute to around 1k for a minute during the warm up cycle. Only does it when started cold, maybe your truck thinks it's cold started every time you park it?

Now that you mention it, that filter housing is a bit different than the ones on an endt676. License plate i.plies it's an EN 672?

Looks like it's got an endt676

Oil delivery truck I've driven in the past the synchros didn't work for ****. They started parking it in the garage, 70 degrees synchros work great!.. Check the oil chart for your trans to see what oil to run given your ambient air temps.

It's nice to leave as much working height as possible, never know when you'll have a dump truck in there and need to put the body up to access the chassis. If you have diagonal braces there that could impede your ability to do so.

Needs a diagonal brace so it can't sway. If it sways while a door is up, it will drop the door on your head. If that 2x6 were run past the collar tie and attached also to the ridge beam that would suffice without cutting into ceiling work height.

Mid to late '80s judging by the filter housing ductwork. And I suspect it's an air ride cab seeing as the exhaust isn't rubber-strapped to the back of the cab...

To pay off a new truck just on 1mpg fuel savings, he would have to log almost 3 million miles. (Assuming $7k savings per 100k miles, and 200k truck purchase price, which I picked roughly guessing price + interest) (and assuming fuel prices stay constant over the 3million mile period) To my thinking, he's in the right truck, especially factoring in how many rebuilds during the 3 million miles to pay off the truck?

A 20k rebuild is a lot cheaper than a 180k truck. And at 2.1 million miles, he's doing something right on maintenance. The headache of a lemon after a truck that reliable isn't fun. If snowman is still making good money on his '99 and his stress levels are low and pride is high in an "older" truck (we just bought an '88 to add to our fleet) then let him be. Per 100k miles, going from a 6.5mpg truck to a 7.5 mpg truck will save you 2,000 gallons of fuel. (15,380g to 13,330g per 100k miles) Savings are what? $6-7k per 100k miles? Certainly worth considering, that'd be $60-70k per million miles. If you bought the truck new, you're running about 100k miles per year. If you spend your "fuel savings" on a new truck you won't be saving money, you'll just be giving the savings to the bank. And a new truck is gonna cost more than $7k per year. And by the time you get it paid off, Maxidyne will be yelling at you that your truck is old, and you need a new one that gets even better fuel mileage!! The reality is, a well maintained/cared for paid off truck makes the most sense. Metal does fatigue, the truck won't last forever, but forever hasn't come calling yet on this truck.

I fail to see where in this thread he needed a smackdown.

Associated Truck in gilbertsville, PA has relined strange brakes for us in the past, I'd expect them to be able to do it. They do brakes, driveshafts, clutches, etc.

So replace the protection valve in the dash. It shouldn't be leaking.

There's some obvious animosity here that I didn't pick up on, cool it and get back to OP. No need for union/non union bickering, it only makes you appear like a teenager.

Electronics and salt conditions, not a good mix!

I guess he won't be trying that stunt again....

And to think we still run a 1979 r686st nearly every day. I don't see them banning older trucks, they'll just let them phase out from fatigue and lack of parts support. Though some jobsites may have equipment age standards that'd restrict a few big companies from using older trucks. Not sure they could legally mandate a ban on trucks that are in good working order that are just "too old.". Unless people like AOC keep getting into Congress and think the world will end in 12 years if we don't spend $90 trillion on dumb shit that has nothing to do with the climate. Communist philosophy: every "disaster" is an opportunity for revolution.

Put a fuller transmission in it!!!!

&##@$&&& Fuller transmissions!! Pull it and put a Mack trans in!!!! Just kidding, figured I finally got a chance to critique one of David Wild's beloved transmissions. Another thing to check: pull shifter off transmission, make sure all shifters are actually in neutral. My 8ll shifter jumped out from shifter rail pattern a few times when we first got it, then could only make a big circle with the shifter. There's an o ring and a metal cupped washer in the shift lever ball socket, and the o ring deteriorated, causing the shifter to sit up higher, thus allowing it to pop out of the shift pattern if you weren't careful. But that shouldn't cause massive air leaks.

On R models, take the heavy spring hanging from the underside of the dash holding the clutch pedal up. Our spring fell out a few years ago, clutch is way easier to push. R models use 2 return springs, one down by the bellhousing, the other up under the dash. The dash one doesn't do anything critical. Not sure how Rilex's 2008 is set up.

I fail to see how a Mack trans can affect the clutch pedal, given that clutches are outside the trans, and you can put whatever brand clutch you want with whatever trans you want. I realize you hate Mack transmissions, but this one stumps me and just smells of irrational prejudice. Replacing trans because the clutch pedal is hard to press is about the dumbest thing I've heard. Rilex, give more info. Is the clutch properly adjusted? Is the clutch brake in good working order? Is the throw out bearing grease?

Replace your clutch cable, they fray internally and generate resistance.

If you're the owner operator, it's no big deal. Just don't let anyone else drive it. Great to hear you have 40,000 hours on yours! My 95 e7-350 has 19,550+; curious how many hours I'll get out of it til it gets rebuilt. Runs like a champ!

Careful on those 2x's that the garage door tracks hang from, they should have a diagonal brace to hold them from swaying. If they away, it'll pull the wheels out of the doors and drop it on your head. I'd have run the 2x's past the collar tie and put diagonals in above the collar tie to maintain headroom.

Needs another stack. Other than that, good looking truck!

I have a 95 e7-350 triaxle. In the last 10 years since we've owned it we have had the valve covers off once for valve adjustments. 19,550+ hours on it, great running truck, completely stock. A little light on torque, but we couldn't ask for a more reliable engine. Oil pan leaks bad, but new gasket is on the shelf for this winter.