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wheeler73

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Everything posted by wheeler73

  1. I use a level in the cab and adjust the leveling valve linkage untill the cab is level. Also check the cab shocks while you are there. I have seen some issues with the shocks binding and causing the cab to stay in odd positions.
  2. And check the flex pipes to the dpf for leaks as it will also cause incomplete and frequent regens. Also have the dpf delta p sensor and the egr delta p sensor checked as they will also cause regen issues.
  3. Also make sure the 7th injector has the air purge kit installed. If not I recommend you have it installed. I have seen the air purge fix a lot of regen issues. We have installed a lot of the air purge kits. Also Mack maintance manual states to have the dpf cleaned every 4500 hours. We send our catalyst and filers out and have them cleaned on our lease trucks and several customers truck every 4500 hours and have very little issues with them.
  4. For the money and warranty I would suggest a ReMack engine.
  5. Sound like a sychronizer. Seen the same complaint quite often.
  6. What year is the truck and does it have a pump?
  7. Thats unfortunate. Check the boost pressure sensor as this can cause 4-5 code along with other issues. It is not a code that means nothing. Sound like you have crappy dealers around you.
  8. You really should do the 4-5 diagnostics when it is active. Also check the boost pressure sensor. I have seen a lot of issues with them. The way they are installed lets the air intake piping hit the connectorand causes the pins to loosen. I usually install a 45 or 90 degree fitting to intall the boost pressure sensor into the keep it from hitting the piping.
  9. Make sure to check the wires for continuity. The unit pumps are ground controlled. Each one separately. Does the sensor go into the fuel delivery galley or where the fuel line goes? If so then it is a fuel temp sensor. Unfortunately debris getting into the injector from the fuel line holes usually is not able to be seen.
  10. I have had them get air bound. What you are calling an injector sounds like a unit pump and not the actual injectors. Did you plug off the unit pumps and the heads? Debris can get in them easily. If they are air bound I find that a nice hard run will bleed the air out of them.
  11. You don't have to remove the hood. I use a drum and some blocks to hold the hood open. Which radiator do you have the one in front of the charge air cooler or the one behind the charge air cooler?
  12. They are adjusted when the valves are adjusted. When you have them adjusted make sure to have the Jake pins checked and adjusted also. If they are worn like most I see are have them replaced. If you don't hear or feel anything on low you can apply power to the Jake at the box and see if it is working. If not it may be a bad solenoid.
  13. If it is a Jacobs set up it may need to be rebuilt or updated. The Jacobs set up in my opinion is mostly a noise maker on a Mack. The power leash on the ASET engines works great.
  14. No problem. You can always wire in your own low air buzzer if you wanted to.
  15. It is built into the cluster unfortunately. You will have to replace the cluster. They are the same.
  16. Possibly damaged the balancer. May not look damaged but it could be internally as they have a fluid in them. Just a thought.
  17. Depending on the front engine mount it can come off with the hub and then removed easier. If the front mount just has a groove cut in it for the balancer it will not come off with the hub. I have had to use a torch and heat the balancer and spray the hub with liquid R12 or R134a to get the balancer off. Of course the balancer will need to be replaced after heating it. The above trick work on a lot of different things. Had an old machinist show me that trick.
  18. Some trucks have a spitter type valve on the air tank to purge moisture from them. They are square about 3-4 inches across and stick out from the tank. Just a possibility.
  19. The ASET engines make good power but have their issues. A lot of the issues are from lack of proper maintenance. As I said they do have issues but we have a lot of customers that have them and like them.
  20. The turbo and actuator are calibrated already unless someone took the actuator off. That could be the issue and it will need to be recalibrated. Also could be a defective turbo or actuator. I have seen that right out of the box.
  21. It is usually the eup. The injectors do not throw codes as they are mechanical.
  22. No it will run fine without changing the cal codes.
  23. If it is a 04 emissions MP7 there is no dpf. Egr and boost leaks are very common. Also the turbo can cause this. Check the boost hoses, piping, charge air cooler, and intake manifold.
  24. Could be a bad module. Unplug the abs module first and see if the code goes away. It helps if you know someone with good eecu and vecu that you can try. Have see those go bad quite often. Also could be a bad J1939 wire or connection at the engine harness to trans harness connector.
  25. With a torch I cut the outer cage off and heat the inner race and most time it comes off with the air hammer. If it doesn't I cut the inner race off with the torch you just need to be carefull and take a little off at a time so you do not cut into the drive shaft.
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