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wheeler73

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Everything posted by wheeler73

  1. I use an air hammer with a chisel bit to remove the old one. Sometimes I have to torch them off. Make sure you use red locktite on the threads before you install the nut. I use a good 1/2 inch impact to tighten the nut.
  2. Check the connections to the fuse panel under the hood and all power and ground connections.
  3. Mack has a mode box update kit. Unfortunately you have to remove the whole case. This is a common issue.
  4. It is in the intake pipe after the air filter.
  5. If the engine is an ASET AC as it should be for that year they are alright but not as good an an E7 or a E7 E tech. The ASET AC engines have turbo and egr cooler issues and cam issues that are caused from lack of valve adjustments. This is what I have seen with these engines.
  6. Unfortunately with the engine you have I don't believe there is anything you can do except see if it has step 12b programming in the vecu and the latest software and data file in the eecu. Your Mack dealer can call tech support with your vin and find out what it has in it. We charge 3 hours to reflash and program both ecu's. I do not know of any aftermarket upgrades for these engines. Hope that helps.
  7. The only problem with too deep of a cut is stacking the shims. I do not like more than 2 shims. I have found if more are used it is easier for them to fall down the liner and roll when installing the liners.
  8. Have them monitor the a/c fan switch also called the a/c high pressure switch that the computer monitors. If it is stuck in the on position it will cause the fan to stay engaged. Also if the a/c system is equipped with APADS it could be in that also. I see the above alot.
  9. I have no idea but it works very well. Possibly to seal some imperfections in the counter bore and or cost.
  10. Fyi the MP engines use o-rings on the liners.
  11. If they look good make sure you measure the depths. If they have been cut before the liners will need to be shimed. If you have to shim them make sure you put the shims on tye liners with the thinist first if you have to use a couple of shims and then apply a thin bead of silicone to the bottom shim and then install and use hold downs on the liners for about 30 min each to set the silicone. Mack says maximum counter bore cutting is 0.040. I have gone to 0.080 a couple of times as per customer request. Try to only use 2 shims per liner as any more cause issues.
  12. Make sure you measure the counter bore depth and clean them and look for pitting near the edge. If there is pitting near the edge or large pits in the counter bores they will need to be cut.
  13. Did you cut the counter bores the last time? If you have a depth micrometer you can at least check the counter bore depth in 4 spots and see what the reading is. Factory is 4 inches. If they have been cut then the liners need to be shimmed. It is not too bad of a job just time consuming.
  14. Did you use a lot of silicone on the counter bores? Also were there any broken rings. Also when you pulled the old liners out was there a lot of silicone? If so the block might be trashed.
  15. Where are the cracks located in the liners. If they are where the line meets the counter bore and just above that area I have seen too much silicone used to seal the counter bore cause the cracked line. Have seen a couple trash the block because of too much silicone. All it takes is a very samll bead of silicone.
  16. Also forgot if it is a CH dump truck make sure it has the correct front and rear axles and suspension for the application and that they double framed it. We see them all the time. A good DOT officer will spot the axles and suspension and red tag the truck. But there are very few of those officers. We see those trucks all the time. Most are built in Miami but we have seen some from Texas lately.
  17. It causes damage to the synchroniser and sliding clutches and viods warranties as it is easily spotted on teardown. Also pre select all range and split shifts to avoid rapid wear. We see range shift failures in reverse quite often. Also see a lot of wear from not pre selecting ranges and splits. The T series of trans are stiffer to shift. Nothing shifts as easy as a worn out Eaton but in the correct application the Mack trans hold up better. Most of what we sell are Mack trans. Most dump trucks get the T310M and line haul get the T313 and lowboy's get the T318.
  18. Also do not range shift in reverse!!
  19. If the trans is a 2006 trans it is a T318 trans. The only issues with them is mainly sychronizers. Also they need to be serviced regulary or there will be bearing and gear failures.
  20. The step 12b does help alot but there could be other issues. Have the dealer check for step 12b and if it is able to take step 12b programming and have them do it and see if it helps.
  21. Just so you know the engine is a ASET AC engine not a regular E7.
  22. They have always been expensive. What is wrong with the actuator? The control valve also causes issues along with the air line to the actuator. Also when the actuator or turbo is replaced the actator needs to be calibrated.
  23. Lol Bbigrig so true! Unfortunately most so called techs don't take pride in their work and are nothing but parts changers. It gives the rest of us techs a bad name. Unfortunately now I do not get to repair most trucks as I am the triage tech and only diagnose them anymore. I miss the engine work as that is my favorite. Oh well someone needs to diagnose the trucks for the parts changers.
  24. Replace the boost pressure sensor and check the egr operation and cooler for leaking and or plugging. Also inspect the turbo.
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