Mackpro

I take that back, I believe this it it.

I have seen very very few factory boost pressure guages in RD's. They were very simple mechanical guages with a simple 1/8" to 1/4" plastic air line coming from the intake manifold. They did match the other guages though. I did a google search in images and could not find a picture.

Remove it and see if i the end of the valve unscrewing its self and causing it to dump boost

Location of boost relief valve

You should have around 33 psi boost , check air filter, check muffler for broken baffle. pressure test entire intake system , not just the after cooler. Also a big over looked part is the boost pressure relief valve on top of the intake manifold. Ill attach pictures of what it looks like soon .

Yous has the newest "Step 12B" program in it . It was done in September of 2016. There are a few different engine files that Mack software guy ( not the dealer) wont talk about that if the dealer begs enough they can get turned on and downloaded. These seem only for the AI 427 HP engine. And it will help.

Have you had any of the software updates done for poor throttle responce done at a dealer. If your unsure, I can pull it up and usually see. You got the last 6 of your Vin?

Also on most CV trucks with AI/AMI engines . The exhaust starts out as 5" coming off the turbo then with in a few inches the turbo outlet pipe necks down to 4" all the way to the muffler. Then the muffler is a 4" in and 5" outlet. On the very early CV with standard ETECH engines, the turbo outlet pipe stays 5" all the way till the last few inches of the pipe then necks down. Ive seen a few guys here use the older outlet pipe and cut off the necked down part and make there own 5" exhaust and get a Walker high flow 5" in/5" out muffler. If I was gonna go the AC cam swap, I'd do the full 5" exhaust too.

The AI/AMI engine has a small internal diameter exhaust manifold to create back pressure in the cylinders. The camshaft has two bumps on the exhaust lobe so that the exhaust valves open twice for every one time the intake valves open. This allows burnt exhaust gasses to be sucked back down and burned again thanks to the exhaust back pressure created by the small exhaust manifolds. Its kinda like an internal EGR. Some guys on here have replaced the AI/AMI camshaft with a AC engine camshaft and had good results. I have run into a 427 HP AI engine on a CV rolloff truck that had large ETECH exhaust manifold installed on it. Every thing else was factory including turbo, it sure didnt feel any stronger.

Look at the top of page 6 of this Bulletin. Some camshafts that came in some AI engine cant be used with the Jacobs brake/J-tech brake sb213035 E-tech camshaft.pdf

Back in December I was in the Mack MP common rail engine class and there was no mention of the MP10 getting the common rail upgrade. And for that matter not much was said about the MP7 either

You might be onto something, I have a chart at work with all the camshaft part numbers for the ASET engines. I know the powerleash has its own camshaft . However I don't know if it is compatible with the Jacobs brake

Can only be checked if the yellow/amber "lighting bolt" is on. Turn the cruise on/off to off ( down). Then press and hold the set/decel or resume/accel button till the fault lamp goes out , then release and the fault lamp will flash out a 2 digit code.

Check the "U" shaped fuel return jumper pipe between the heads/valve covers. Make sure its not wet around this jumper. There is a check valve on the injection pump where the return fuel flows out. There are about 3 different styles, a couple of styles have a spring and check ball that can be shimmed for more fuel pressure. And on the later VMAC pump it was a simple solid fitting with a small hole drilled in it to make a restriction to create back pressure. The transfer pumps would sometimes leak but usually leak fuel into the oil pan.

We always use the pink/red pre-mixed 50/50 stuff here. I talked to our guy here and he does the same thing as you did. back the bolts out till they hit the balancer and slide the gasket/square o-ring out. However he had some that he could do like that for some reason but cant remember which engine it was on.

Here is the recall. SC0342 CX-CXNheadlight switch recall.pdf

A guy here at work , replaces the thick square o-ring by somehow taking the water pump housing loose but never takes the balancer off. I'll ask him how he does it in the morning

I install lots of seal kits in steering boxes. Its not hard. The sector shaft ( out put shaft) seals go out after time due to no power steering coolers. High heat kills the seals. While they have the valve cover off. Have them replace the rocker arm hold down bolts if you have the Powerleash engine brake. They stretch and brake and wipe out the camshaft and roller lifters. Seen it happen many many times. The new upgraded bolts solve this problem.

There is a recall on CXNs for headlight switches , what's thee last 6 of your vin and I'll see if it has been done

From push button switch in dash it goes to another micro switch on the back of the AC/Heater control panel to the thermostat that's below the control panel then through a inline fuse by the control panel , then through the firewall and to the low pressure switch and on to compressor . Check the fuse behind the contro panel

There was no info on the Volvo side about discontinuing the D16. So the MP-10 will likely live on as the D16 in the Volvo side.

Declining sales and that more or less the 505 MP8 in existing trucks was enough to get the job done. Can't really blame them , in 9 years years we only sold 3 between all 3 of our stores .

Just got the email a few minutes ago. No more Titans. Wish it was April Fools but sadly not.

Remove actuator. Turn arm on turbo to the right/forward toward front of truck. There is a hole through the arm and a hole in the turbo housing. They should be lined up. Go into VGT calibration and follow the commands

People always forget about the bullgears/timing gears on a MP. That's why I push the Mack Reman engine when overhaul or major engine failure occurs. Why spend 20K on an overhaul when a year later your bull gear goes out and your screwed again. Drop in the reman and it's all covered! Downfall is it's 30-35K