Mackpro

I'd rather have Hino. Let the Japanese have a shot at it. I'm done with that other side of the globe!

If the laptop says 32 psi thats good. All AC engines have a boost pressure sensor even if they dont have a guage in the dash. The laptop was reading off that sensor. Single or dual exhaust? We had several trucks here with single exhaust and the baffle would break inside the muffler and get side ways blocking off the exhaust flow.

Hopefully you have a Boost /manifold pressure guage in the upper LH side of guage cluster. A good running ASET AC engine will have 33 psi of boost under a load.

How low is low? 59 psi is where the overflow valve opens at. Any thing above 59 psi is good. I think the overflow valves are staked where you cant shim them. However , anything is possible I assume.

We always install new plugs and use the Loctite flange sealant (green in color). I cant remember the freeze plug size but its not metric. I think you can get one from Napa if no dealer is close by.

On the AI engines you just need a turbo and inectors and download to go all the way to 460 HP. Your local Mack dealer can submitt a HP change request via Macks email system and tell you what part numbers you need and the cost of the download if any. We do it everyday here. On the AI engines, we have had Mack say they could not go to 460 due to some EPA issue for that year but were able to go to 427. Also on the AI engine , 4.42 gears are the hightest i'd ever go with . 4.64's work best tall 22.5rubber. You could have your dealer do the software updates (Step 12B)on the 300 and see if it helps if it hasnt beed done yet.

The harness is all one piece! It pulls out of the head. If you bend any of the wires under the valve cover and the insulation comes off, replace the entire harness. It aint worth fixing. If the harness is not brittle and in good shape , I would replacejust the injector plug ends.

I vote for engine harness. Most all older MP's around here have been replaced once if not twice. Watch your engine brake plungers in the engine brake roller rocker arm and make sure there not uncrewing themselves. Harness.pdf

Older ETECH engines in the 1998-2001 range had 2 different possible fuel pressure regualtor part numbers. One was a 100 psi valve which we always installed if there was a issue . The other was a 75-80 psi valve. These pressure regualtors had the small barb nipple on them for the plastic fuel return line that came from the cylinder head. Starting in around 2002 the CCRS engine came out and Mack came out with the "Leak less" injectors and did away with the fuel return line from the injectors/head. CCRS engines and up including the ASET AC/AI have a fuel pressure regulator without the barb nipple on them and fuel pressure was 58 psi. This is a quick easy way to tell if you have a ETECH ( has the plastic fuel return line coming from head to regulator) or the CCRS engine ( no plastic line) . The pressure regulator screws into the side of the block above the air compressor.

Check the fuel pressure at this port. Port is on passenger side front of engine block at top of timing gear cover. It's 1/4" pipe thread so its easy to plumb up. All CCRS and ASET's should be 58 psi at idle and go up when you throttle it up. If fuel pressure goes down when you throttle it up or your way below 58 psi , you got fuel problems.

Did you go with rubber pads or upgrade to urethane? We always use the urethane pads for any truck with a 3rd/lift axle. We get the urethane pads direct from Mack.

That 5 is actually a "S". You got a MID-128, SID-3, FMI-8. Which is a 8-3 code in the Mack book. Its your #3 EUP pump. FMI-8 usually means its somewhat working correctly but probably needs replacing in the future. This FMI-8 is a common code on the EUP's in older trucks. Mostly comes on when engine first starts up then goes out after it warms up. I wouldnt change it till starts coming on daily or stays on.

Here's a "VMAC III Engine Cranks But No Start" guide that I found buried in my stash. Bad news its in Microsoft Office format, I hope you can open it. Its for the 1999-2002 ETECH's but yur ASET AI is almost the same. I have had a shorted EUP keep one from not starting and not set a code and check the same OHM's as the good ones. That one was a hard one to figure out. engine_cranks_no_start.doc

Before I start my rant, I'd like to say no offence to our overeas members. I , for one love the European infiuence in our trucking industry. Gone are the days of a simple headlight circuit of a fuse, a switch , maybe a relay and head light. Now thanks to our European friends at Volvo, we have multiple breakers, fuse panels , relays and a ECM and I cant forget the European style wiring diagrams that are impossible to read. But I guess I shouldn't complain as I make good money tracing their crazy wiring issuses. Our new trucks have become like BMW's, Land Rover's and Mercedes, unless you have money to burn, dont own one out of warranty. We call it here " European Reliability". We still have lots of R-models and early CH's running around here and just one day I'd like to come in and work on one to remember the good days back when I first started this job in 1988. That rarely happens........wonder why? Now I'm off to troubleshoot a 2010 GU that will start if you pull it with a chain but not with the key. Time to use those wonderful wiring diagrams :).

5 year/750,000 miles for a T300 series trans in a road tractor. However if your truck is classed as a severe duty or off road the warranty could be shorter. Also if the syncro pack is damaged, we have to look at the wear on the gears to see if improper range shifting (down shifting) caused the failure. In that case no warranty.

Update the ACM and EMS software to the latest levels, replace both NOX sensors if not the current part#'s, do 2 regens and a 20 mile test drive. If light still on , you got other problems.

Walker M100463 is what you want. Its listed as an off road muffler but its barely louder than stock but flows much more than stock. We put them on lots of CH's and CX's

Make sure both engines are the either ETECH's or CCRS ( 2002-2003). Use the turbo and injectors and engine ECM off the 460 ( of course off-set key way if ETECH). Rest of the engine is the same regardless of HP.

Is there dip switches on the back of the tach? If so it might be set incorrectly. Hope this helps. sb732003 tach.pdf

I have had several trucks that would start on starting fulid and run fine and make you think it was a fuel bleed back issue. However it was the starter drawing to many volts/amps, and pulling power away from the ECM. What was funny was the starter turned over and sounded fine. Hook a volt meter to the big solinoid in the fuse box and crank the engine and see how low it gets. If below 9-10 vots this could be your problem.

Remove air line from solenoid going to fan clutch, apply shop air directly to fan clutch with engine off, listen for internal air leak of fan clutch. Different types of air fans work different than others . Some engage with air and some the opposite. Horton, Eaton and Kysor, I get them all confused

E-media in dealer portal has only a few items on the E-9. I'm still trying to find the original Mack E literature site , hopefully buried some where in dealer portal and not deleted

All I could find as of now. MTPI 210-044PB.pdf

Did you notice that the "Mack Electronic Information System" section in dealer portal is missing? It had the old service bulletins in it. Its gone or they moved it on me.