steeler
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Everything posted by steeler
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Update......found the problem. The fuel line that goes from filter head to engine had a brass T fitting in it with a small line running to the after treatment fuel pump. I replaced the line with a new one and they didn't drill all the way thru the fitting. Parts defect. Sure is aggravating!
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I've got a 2011 mp7 that we replaced the engine with a reman due to gear train failure. Trying to start the engine for the first time and I'm getting no fuel to the head. Weird thing is I've got 97 pounds of fuel pressure, engine will start, stumble around on maybe 3 cylinders then die. Now if I pump the hand primer, fuel will flow backwards, into the head from the front, nothing going in from the rear. All the fuel lines are routed correctly. Could a stuck check valve cause this? I know there are several in the filter head.
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I've talked to a few owners that have done it and are happy. There are downsides to it though. For example I just finished working on a KW with a Paccar engine that was deleted. Guy had taken it to a dealer who refused to work on it because it was deleted. Turned out the ecm was fried. We got him a new ecm, but our local dealer would obviously only program it with the factory program. This guy is from out of town, and the company that deleted it for him is 1200 miles away, and out of business. So, he will have to find somebody to put his delete software back in it. In the meantime though, his truck will progressively derate.
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Damn. You don't see sliding clutches worn out in a Mack trans very often. They can take a lot of abuse and still function just fine. Unless someone was VERY abusive to it, or whoever looked at it doesn't have much experience diagnosing them.
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need help with 4-2 blink code please
steeler replied to mcratchet1's topic in Engine and Transmission
No problem. Glad you fixed it! -
Good catch. I should have said fmi 3 or 5. Not 7. Thanks.
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Just curious, how much did you pay for that reman? If your problem was the syncro, that could have been done much cheaper. I don't know what idiot told you that you had 6 syncros in there, but stay away from that guy.
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What is the fmi on that code? 5 or 7? Could be that it needs the new style pins in the harness.
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need help with 4-2 blink code please
steeler replied to mcratchet1's topic in Engine and Transmission
On the engine -
I just pulled the rocker back loose and switched 4 and 5 plungers. Everything looks perfect now. I don't know why that plunger doesn't like being in number 4, but it all adjusted up just fine now.
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After an injector cup job, while adjusting valves, the plunger on #5 exhaust valve is sticking out a little more than the others. All others adjusted fine, but#5 has a much thinner shim under it, like someone had this issue last time. If I push down on the rocker arm, three is a little spring loaded feel to it, not anymore than the others had. Any reason this plunger is sticking out further?
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need help with 4-2 blink code please
steeler replied to mcratchet1's topic in Engine and Transmission
Pin number 9 at ecu connector j1(the top one) is your ground signal to turn fan off. Before you start splicing, check that wire for continuity to the fan solenoid. -
need help with 4-2 blink code please
steeler replied to mcratchet1's topic in Engine and Transmission
Yes, if you aren't getting the ground from ecu, I ran a new wire from eco to fan solenoid. My daughter was sick this morning so I stayed home today, but I'll get the info in the morning. -
need help with 4-2 blink code please
steeler replied to mcratchet1's topic in Engine and Transmission
You should have a constant 12v at one wire of the fan solenoid, the other wire is a ground signal from the ecu to disengage the fan. It could be as simple as a blown fuse (don't quote me but #41 I think?) Or could be a break in either the hot wire or ground. I've seen many that were broken wires, rather than chase the mess around and on top of the transmission, I just rewired, bypassing part of the harness. I don't have a schematic with me right now, but can give you pin numbers Monday if you still need them. -
Mine does not have the separate pump for after treatment, but I found the problem. The 7th injector was plugged up. Mack needs to fix some issues with the guided diagnostics in tech tool, it never mentioned anything about that as a possibility for the code I had. Oh well all good now. Thanks.
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Ok hooked shop air to the shutoff valve, that didn't change anything. So if my test vehicle has after treatment fuel pressure of 90, with engine fuel pressure at 60, what "ups" that pressure? I thought after treatment fuel pressure would be equal to engine fuel pressure?
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I was wrong on that test, all it was was checking the fuel pressure to the shutoff valve, which is the same as the engine pressure. That was the last test, so it just told me "no fault found". I hooked up another truck of the same year just to compare pressures. That one had an after treatment fuel pressure of 90 psi when the shutoff valve opens, then dropped to zero with the valve closed. Mine stays at about 45 with the valve closed. I'm going to run regulated shop air to the shutoff valve at 32 psi just to see if anything changes.
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Do you still have active dpf codes? Could be derated causing your low power?
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Not sure of the exact spec, but should be higher. What hp mp8 is it? Can you hear any squealing noises or anything abnormal?
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Hey guys I've got a 2015 lei that is throwing a p20de00 after treatment fuel pressure sensor circuit range/performance fault. I've run through the diagnostics with tech tool with exception of the final test because I don't have the special tool to do it, but everything checks good. The afp runs about the same as engine pressure when the shutoff valve activates, then runs about 45 lbs deactivated. Engine fuel pressure is steady at about 58-60. Any ideas? Forgot to add that I replaced the doser module.
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Yup your fan drive is bad then. Check into the Horton 2 speed drives for a replacement unless yours already has it. It will extend the life of your next one
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Ok cool thanks fjh.
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What size clear hose is it?
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How do you guys hook up your clear line to the head while checking cups? Do you buy the banjo fittings and just keep a rig for testing?
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Depends what type of fan drive you have. I would say you probably have a Horton that locks the fan when there is no air to it. If I have one that isn't kicking in properly for me the easiest way to test the fan itself is to remove the air line that goes to the fan drive. That will lock it in and you shouldn't be able to spin the fan. If it's a fan drive that locks on with air pressure to it, then I take the air line off and shoot air to the fan manually and see if it locks. I would suspect the fan drive is probably the culprit.
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