steeler
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Everything posted by steeler
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Problem solved, I think. Ended up unplugging the boost sensor and it went ahead and did it's thing. Plugged it back in and its working perfect now. The boost reading was a little wacky, but now it's fine. Must've had a bad connection there. Thanks Turckster.
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Hey guys I'm getting a drv solenoid fault when I try a service regen. It will throw the code after only about 5 seconds after it starts the regen. It has a new drv solenoid and air line. I've removed the valve by the turbo and it functions perfect with the test on vcads. The fault is 128 ppid330 fmi7. Can anyone give me a suggestion?
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To be honest, I hope they are right. Lol. If the engine has to come out, then I won't have to mess with it. I've already got several big jobs on my plate and I can't think of a job I hate more than those idler gears!
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Hey guys I've got an mp7 that was towed into my shop from afar with a loose idler gear that has done the usual chewing up of the flywheel housing. The shop that it came from told the customer there was so much metal in the engine that the engine had to be replaced. My question is, at what point would that be need necessary? I've done one of these before but I haven't heard of anybody replacing the engine for this problem.
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I've had a bazillion trucks with the 8-9, never had one with it active yet. Is it active? If not, I would ignore it and go after the 6. I was thinking that with an active 8-9 the engine will not run, but not certain about that here sitting at home and not at the shop. As far as the 6, check the wires close to the unit pump for bare spots. Could also be a failed pump.
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You might be right, maybe that was it, they went to 2 springs instead of 1.
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It's been awhile since I've rebuilt one with the update kit, but it seems like I remember the 2 springs were updated with just a single spring. Maybe the one housing has been rebuilt but not the other? It's also possible that my memory sucks and I'm wrong.
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Wow. 76 hrs? 36 hours? What are you guys that work in a shop charging for a cam? We charge 24 hrs in a CV.
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Hate to drag up an old thread but this was a first for me. After changing out the VEB solenoid on an mp7 the other day, had the same start then die issue. After reading this thread I swapped the old solenoid back in and she runs fine. So apparently bad VEB's right out of the box appears common.
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You'll need diagnostic software for that.
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I've got some terminal tools, maybe it's my bad eyesight, but I can't see how to unlock them.
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I have a couple bad terminals in the ECU plug on an AI engine, how the Heck do you get them out?
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I have a feeling nobody has had this issue before but I`m working on a vmac3 LE garbage truck with dual operating positions. The truck just got back from transmission shop for new Allison. Now when you switch the operating position switch, the trans pad will switch from left to right and back, but the throttle stays left. it wont work on the left side at all. I`m not sure how the switch is tied into the electronics and I have no diagram. The Trans shop says its not on them, they didn't have anything to do with it. No fault codes. Anybody got anything?
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2007 CXN613 - bubbles in coolant reservoir
steeler replied to Frank Batista's topic in Engine and Transmission
I've had 2 of them (mp7 I assume you have?) Leaking compression from underneath the injector cups. Had to replace the head on both due to pitting. I had tested it for combustion gasses and came up negative, but it was there. -
I vote harness as well, if the ecu plug is oil free. I've seen a bazillion harness issues for the same problem, especially where the harness runs over top of the air compressor. They love to rub there.
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You need to install 3 .025 shims under the rocker stands of the rear head. Common issue with a re man head. I can't think of the part number off the top of my head, but your dealer should have them in stock. Reason for this is that your head was machined and now the valves are sitting higher. Shimming up the rocker will eliminate any engine brake clearance issues.
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Could be, definitely worth a shot.
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Did your clutch lock in with the shop air applied or unlock? Make sure the new solenoid you installed is the correct part, if not it could work backwards from what it is supposed to do. IF it's the typical Horton (air unlocks it) the ecu will send a ground to the fan solenoid to apply air and unlock it. The solenoid would have constant 12v with the ecu using ground for control.
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All Etech blocks are interchangeable. Even Asets can interchange with Etechs.
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I've seen this happen more than a couple times. The pump has usually been the culprit over fueling.
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Fuel pressure should be somewhere in the 60-75 lb range. Testing under load would be ideal, but often you'll see it near zero at idle when the gear is slipping on the shaft. If it's a restriction in the fuel system pressure might be good until you get it under strain.
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Ya, my first thought is fuel pressure, luckily the etech is almost as easy as it gets to diagnose. Even through the internet. Some have asked me why I would offer help on the net. These are some of the problems some of us pulled our hair out on 15 years ago, but learned all the ins and outs through it. Why not help somebody else out? Sorry I'm rambling.lol
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Does the electronic malfunction light work? Any smoke? Does it sounds like a single cylinder misfire, or definitely a stumble? It runs fine at higher rpm?
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Yes, if the derate is turned on in the programming then it will cut power.
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Or a worn out clutch brake, worn front seal housing on transmission. Either will allow the throw out bearing to travel too far rearward causing the release fork to contact pressure plate.
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