steeler

Wow. Just catching up on this thread, what a mess! When they replaced the engine, I assume it was just a basic that required all of your external components to be swapped to the new (reman I'm sure) engine? So you've still got the same egr cooler/turbo and all that? Theres a guy around here that back in the 90s had several trucks, they had braking issues. At the time I worked at the dealership and this guy fought this problem for probably a year as we threw every valve, shoe, drums, whatever Mack told us to throw at it we did. Never did fix the problem and Mack refused to give the guy new trucks. These were cl's. He ended up suing Mack over it, I don't think he got squat. The 2 trucks he was having the problem with he parked in a barn while the lawsuit was ongoing, several years. He never bought another Mack. And this is when they were solid trucks, not Volvos with a dog on the hood. Good luck to you man!

Maybe a stupid question, but is your plastic idler pulley still there? I've seen them go bad and break off the engine completely.

Did the new cups fix the problem?

Thank you!

And don't get lazy when tapping the copper sleeve and not go all the way thru. Ask me how I know. Had to pull the head for that mistake.

Do you have the part number for the install tool for conicals? I never knew they had one other than the pull thru. Is the push thru easier to use?

How are the pressures?

I agree. Run it. As far as testing the eup, sometimes you can lay a couple fingers in the injection line and feel the pulse, some may feel stronger/weaker. If you have one that feels noticeably weaker, that could be your problem, but if you're not sure then I would live with it myself.

Ok fixed it. I am no longer a fan of working on an engine that has had the aftertreatment deleted. I had no check engine light, I was checking for codes in guided diagnostics add I always do. Well since this is us10 emissions, I took a quick look at the faults in the test section and was showing an active fault for coolant level. I fiddled with the sensor connection and now that's all good. I don't know anything about the software they program these things with when they delete them, but apparently it's whacky. Ok next problem (which ain't gonna be my problem) there isn't anywhere in ptt to program the injector trim codes as I always do. The truck runs fine, but has a little haze to the exhaust. Like I said, it's not my problem. If he wants the codes put in I guess he will have to take it to whoever deleted it. Anyway thanks for the help guys.

I'll check that in the morning, but it doesn't sound like the brake is kicking in at all. I can even hold it wide open throttle, same 45 seconds, no crackle, pop, stumble, just shuts off.

Instant shut off just like you turned the key off, but dash still lit. No stumble or anything.

Could be a crappy eup as well.

Filter should be right next to the evap, behind the center panel. Is your ac compressor cycling? If not could be a bad thermostat. Also make sure it has the correct charge amount.

Working on a 2011 Volvo road tractor, not sure of the model since they don't put it on the vin label. It has a D13, came in with hard starting problem. It had 3 cups leaking. I changed injectors and cups, now the thing ribs great for 45 seconds and shuts off. It will fire right back up, run exactly 45 seconds and shut off. The key is jacked up in this thing, you can take it out whole it's running, and I'm pretty sure you could start it with a screw driver. No new faults, only the same one that was in it before I worked on it, for def level from the instrument cluster. Of course this one has the aftertreatment deleted as well. Is there any security feature I'm not aware of that would shut it off because the key is flopping around in there? I'm just grasping here, not sure where to go.

Tell me about it! My mind used to be an encyclopedia of Mack part numbers. Our parts shelves lined up alphabetically, now I couldn't tell you the part number of squat.

I'll give that an AMEN! None of us know what would have been if Volvo had stayed out of it, but this sucks. There is almost nothing I like about Volvo.

THIS! Make certain you have the exact gasket that came of it.

It's located below, and in between the ecu and the air compressor.

I finally got it. I don't know how many revolutions I turned this thing, but the timing marks finally lined up.

Agree. It would be very difficult if not impossible to get it in straight without the tool. Whenever I replace one, I always put some sleeve retainer on them. Don't know if it helps hold them better but can't hurt I figure.

Yup, this has an idler gear that mates with the crank/cam/and accessory drive. But apparently it takes 900 thousand revolutions before the marks line up. I don't know if there is an easier way to go about it.

I know it's not a Mack question but one got a M11 that somebody has installed the accessory drive out of time. How the heck do you time this thing? There is a rubber plug that allows you to see the idler and cam gear teeth, and I'm figuring that if I roll the engine around enough, eventually these will line up, but I've turned this thing till I have blisters on my hands and still haven't got alignment. I found the "v" mark for timing the accessory drive, and I can put it together lined up, but shouldn't the crank/cam/accessory drive marks all be lined up at the same time?

TRAITOR!! Just kidding, but I wish there were a fix for this. Or maybe not, it's job security. Just finished one on a 16 with 60k miles.

Yes, if I'm doing a valve and cooler, I'm going to go ahead and pull the turbo.

Yup, that's cups.