steeler

Usually when the cups start leaking, it will run fine after you get it started. I've seen engines with 3 Badly leaking cups run great, just hard to start. When it gets to the point you start noticing an engine miss under load, that's when you're running out of time with them. Sadly there really isn't any way to get by on the cheap. Pretty much just fix it or run it.

Don't some aftermarket coolant filter come WITHOUT the additives in them? Could be wrong there but was thinking they did? I'm a fan of the extended life coolant and forget it. If you run a filter with additives and extended life coolant, you get the sludge crap that floats at the top.

You are right, I never considered that being why they took the codes of of the dash. I should have though, because I get those calls all the time.

First step is to try to identify where the air leak is coming from. If it's leaking into the case of the transmission, the air will be heard at the breather which is on top front left in the shift bar housing. When you say you replaced the valve, I'm assuming you mean the slave valve on the driver's side of the transmission? If so, and you've replaced the shifter knob, then the only thing left is going to be the o rings on the range piston. Not a big deal if you have some mechanical ability, you can remove the range cylinder and replace the o rings without removing anything else.

Nope. They took the diagnostics out other than to check the cluster. I guess they wanted to help the dealerships make money. The ABS/ATC code is more than likely also why the other light is on.

No way to really tell which one /ones are bad without removing and inspecting them. Usually when I find 1 leaking, there are a couple more that are either leaking or about to. Imo no point in doing 1 (assuming you are lucky enough that the first one you pull is the culprit) because the others will be leaking soon. The injectors /cups once installed, mate to each other, so you can't just replace 1 without the other. They say you can reinstall an old injector into the same cup after removal, but I don't think I've ever encountered a situation where I did that. When they come out, it's because I know they are leaking so it's all going to be replaced.

An 8908 would be an 8,000 lb transmission, where the more common 14908, or 16908 would be 14,000, and, 16,000. Can't say I've ever seen an 8908 in a tri axle though. What did it come out of?

Thanks guys I'll check those out. My fear is that I'm going to kill power to it which will bring it to life again for another 3 days and not be sure I've fixed the problem. These are the jobs that I wished I still worked at a dealership. If it wasn't fixed after tossing a couple thousand bucks at it, oh well! Can't do that at this shop though.

I must be cursed with mystery problems! I'm working on a GU with an MP7 that will occasionally either die and not restart, or just won't start at all.......UNTIL you unplug the engine ECU. Then it will fire right up and might run trouble free for 3 days until it happens again. When the problem occurs, I have no communication with the engine e cu. No coolant temp, oil pressure etc. No matter what I do, it won't start until I remove power from the ecu. I have replaced the ecu, but that didn't fix it. Sometimes when you turn the key on, the ecu will communicate fine, but as soon as you hit the starter, it will clunk and then the engine ecu goes dead. Other times, it's just dead from key on. I've tightened and cleaned every cable on this thing. Frustrating! Any ideas?

The fuse for the turbo is in the panel by your left foot.I can't remember which one (p13 maybe).

Problem found! Long story short is original complaint was low power and black smoke. After replacing the injector I found 4 intake manifold bolts broken and cracked manifold. That didn't help the smoking. Went ahead and pulled dpf and found it completely melted out. O don't have any idea how this thing regened normally and didn't have a single dpf code in it. But oh well!

Yup, I've changed many harnesses for that problem. Never had one at like this, but I'll definitely be checking that. Another thing I thought was strange was that the suspect cylinder had a different part number injector, but it crossed to the same part, except it showed as a new injector and not a reman. None of them looked like they had been replaced recently though.

Hopefully somebody can lead me in the right direction here. I'm working on a 2013 Mph that is black smoking and throwing codes for cylinder #4 cylinder balance, and cylinder #4 misfire. I replaced #4 injector, that didn't help at all. I've ran compression test which all cylinders checked perfect. When I do the cylinder balance test with tech tool, #4 is way overfueling. Cylinders 1 and 5 are near zero in the balance test, 2 and 6 are about -17, and #4 is climbing pretty fast at +56. #3 is -25. Not sure where to go other than throwing 5 more injectors at it, but that would be a pricey strikeout!

That's more than likely not a head gasket problem, but rather a leaking liner. Time for an inframe.

I wouldn't be overly concerned with a small amount, if it's possibly been there previously and maybe you just didn't notice it? I would take an oil sample, that will tell you whether to worry or not.

Oh yeah, I'm brain dead from the heat lol. What login does it take? Obviously not tech tool login. Something we don't have I'm sure. Impact?

What is CBR?

I'm a die hard Mack guy, but if you aren't talking about looks of off road, or a rail truck, then Eaton is the way to go. I can repair the common issues with Eaton (jumping out of gear/synchro) much cheaper than the common synchro repair on the T300. Not to mention I think they are easier to shift, but I'm a tech not a driver.

Has anybody cleaned out, or know where the dang A/C drain is on an LR? I can't find it anywhere under the evaporator where you would think it would be. There is a channeled little brace directly under the cab below the evap core, but if it drains into it there is no way to unclog it. I hate to pull the core out just to clean to mud from the drain.

Recheck that flywheel. I don't think a 96 flywheel will work on a 99 etech engine. Seen it several times.

I don't think there was an update for the d12. The hold downs for them look different than the ones on the mp. But even on the mp engines, I don't ever recall seeing grooves in the head where they seat. Something just looks off to me.

Hi all. 4,000 miles ago I did injector cups on a d12d, everything had been great till now. Now it's got dying and hard starts again just like last time. Just pulled the injectors out and noticed 4 of the injector washers stayed in the head. On those 4, down in the cup just above the washer, it looks black, like possible leakage. The 2 that the washers came out with the injector are clean and shiny. No traces of soot on the injectors themselves though. My question is, where the injector hold down rests against the head, it appears that maybe there had been movement at one time causing wear on the head. Maybe a couple thousands. I've never noticed this before, and have done a boatload of cups. Could that be my problem? Alli of the hold down bolts were tight by the way.

Thanks for the tips guys but I got it out! Luckily the customer wasn't in a hurry so I waited for my snap on guy to see what he had for stud removers. He had a Blue Point set that incremented in .25 millimeters, and they are very thin walled. I was able to get one in there and remove the tool bit, then removed the broken cup nipple the normal way, luckily without it falling into the cylinder. Huge victory!

Yes it did break the tip of the cup, I figured that would happen. I would feel a little better if I could come up with a way to get the piece of broken tool out of that tip, but it isn't looking good. Im not sure I would have much luck blowing that piece out thru an exhaust port since it's a pretty heavy chunk. Damnit!!