Lmackattack

insurance companies that insure a company with leased trucks dont want the older trucks hauing their freight. not sure if its in fear of brake downs or damage caused from an older truck. regardless its BS... you buy what you want to drive it. Sometimes I wish we could go back to the late 1940s and start all over again!

Looks like 2500 RPM will meet the max speed your looking for but I dont like to run my engines at full RPM down the road unless I have to. I know they were built to do it but they are a little older now and the less stress the better IMHO. Regardless it will work for you .Lots of quads still around but in who knows what condition. I still have one for a spare but its been out doors for 8 years now. Im not sure of the bell housing size. Did you check on the clutch arangement. some of the macks had a push others had a pull style linkage..

I have a double overdrive quad in my B model and If I recall its geared to run a max road speed of about 62-64MPH at a max engine rpm of 2100RPM. this is with a 5.73 rear end ratio. Will this new engine you have be able to run a Higher RPM. if not your max speed will never be higher than this. What you need to find out is what the lowest gear ratio was and see if the quad or 10 speed will match it for starting abilitys. If you want a trans with a little better parts avalibility the Mack T200 series has transmissions may intrest you. they have a .60 overdrive and come in a selection of diffrent forward speeds. the were good transmissions and most defects are known. such as the clutch pack issues for the range select.

About 15 years one of my friends dads bought a new electric lawnmower. after the first year it had about 10 diffrent colors of extention cords spliced into it. Wonder why it never really cought on? LOL!!!

If im not mistaken all the old mack twin stick boxes are married. at least all the popular boxes were. the mack trans would be fine but I think its a little over sized for the applacation you have?. also not sure if you would need all those gears that the quadbox has? ' what transmission is in the truck now? reason I ask is if it currently has a real slow first you may consider finding a diffrent axel assy with a faster road speed. If your looking for road speed and cant find a diffrent diff ratio I would think a rear axel swap might be a little simpler job to do.

single stick 1st gear will be left and down, 2nd middle and up,3rd middle down. etc.... the stick will have a splitter valve on it.....Direct "D", low "L", reverse "R", neutral "N" drive it like a standard 5 speed when empty, with the splitter in D. with a heavy load on start in 2/"L",accelarate through the gear to near max RPM, pull stick out of gear,quickly move splitter into "D" as you are moveing the stick down into 1st, accelarate through 1st"D",2nd "D",3rd "D" etc..... the up shift from 2"L" to 1"D" is a quick shift so practice!

I dont own a newer mack and most Macks I have driven were built no later than 87'. a few friend have late 90s-early 2000s CH macks that have never had a major issue. I have noticed that the electronic mack engines tend to last longer but alot of them built after 2004 have electrical and emission issues. This is not just with Mack. Cat,Cummins and others have just as many small issues. I think the newer mack rears and gearboxes as almost as tuff as the R models but to compair most new trucks (mack included) to old B and R models I would still think that the old heavy stuff is stronger then todays light weight stuff However For on road you will be just fine with what they have to offer. and the ride diffrence between old and new is night and day. just my .02 Trent

could it be a marine E9? the valve covers and exhaust tubes kinda look like a E9?

done

I did the front diff input and the rear diff input seals last summer longest part of the job was getting the drive shaft off the yoke. If you have one of the newer style yokes where the caps just unbolt and come off them the drive shaft will basicly fall out. It should take no longer than an hour if all goes as planned and the drive shaft comes out easy. I recall the torq settings being tight but not to tight and this is all noted on mack diffs by the way. not sure what the off breed process is. oh and have fun working around the 5th wheel !!!! Trent

pull the U joint out to get the drive shaft off the yoke. Undue the large bolt that holds the yoke to the splines of the diffs input shaft.undue the bolts that hold the seal/cover on the housing. when the cover is off you can remove and replace the seal. if the input shaft is worn where the seal rides a speedy sleave can be used. Trent

let me know about the 1/87 macks Ryan. Very intrested in B and R model tandem tractors I like your dash9s. Im kinda lucky to live near Chicago as I see alot of RR all over the US come thru here. I get to see the UP every time im down at the club. The UP mainline into the old C&NW Chicago yard is 20 feet from our front door. a freight train every 20-30 mins and a commuter every hour to1/2 hour. I model mostly ICRR and CNW in the late 1940s-50s steam diesel transistion era. Trent

WOW. $280 just in fuel to get there and back for nothing more than a wasted weekend. I hope someone got their ass chewed out. any pics of the truck as it sat?? I looked at the pics and besides the stickers on the dash and a tear in the drivers seat It looked brand new in the ad??

only seen one G model in person and thought it looked very new considering its age. It does share some lines of the KWs of that day. Know of a guy that had a used one in CA but think he sold it a few years ago? He shared with me the same storys Goug brings up. Im sure the ones that know the whole truth are no longer with us? Al I also think the G looked a little better than the F but they proved them selves in the end..

Its been 10 years last time I worked on one but I think you can pull the shift cover off to access all the parts that shift the transmission. If the air cyl was clean and operates as it should the next thing to look for is a bent fork.

Double L... I dont know what your driving skill level is but my advice is find a guy that trusts your ability to drive and learn the right way with him. someone that knows his trucks. If you want a laugh keep reading I was at the local DMV, 20 years old, turning 21 in a few months. walked in sat down, passed the CDL permit test. I walked out the door got in my car to go home. As im leaving I see a local dump truck come in the DMV lot. I get a brite idea. I go over and Asked the guy in the truck for a job if in return I could take a test in his truck. The driver called his boss and I started brick laying for him the next day. 4 weeks later I had a CDL to drive hazmat trucks. Cost me nothing but my time a few ego busters and a few sore arms. It was not 100% stress free. I failed 2 times being to carefull. I tested with a 87R model and a 22'dump trailer with a large ashphalt spread pan. While doing the backing up test I could get the truck in the lines perfect but could not see the spread pan in a mirrors. I never went over any boundry lines but the trailers rearmost part(spreadpan)came up about a foot or two short from the pass/fail line that represented a "Dock". both times failed for being to carefull. Had to go back on my 3rd and last attempt and luckly I got a nice old lady that was calm and I passed with perfect score. this was also the same time George Ryan got busted for the CDL bribes.I look back now and can see them lookin at me...... In walks a normal white kid trying to pass his test in one shot. sketchy? must be quizing us?... I think I got the fails just because they were going 100% by the book untill things cooled down with the scandal? my point is Driving a truck or anything is a learning experince and all the money in the world wont make you better. save your money go to work for someone and learn on the equipment you will be taking the test in. you will learn a little about the buisness and see the sides that no trucking school can ever show you. just my .02 Good luck what ever route you go Trent

forgot about some of the cummins. but they are still pretty rare. A few superliners I drove had Cummins but had eaton trans behin them. only seen one cat powerd mack in person. but this is Chicago and in its day it was all mack or nothing.

looks like the TRQ7220 has a 13.8ratio in the lowest forward gear 1st LO LO and 6.52 1st low split. a quick search here found an old thread by "block" with this message " Mack made 2 different 2 stick 6 speed Transmissions. the first one part number TRXL 107 had the following gear ratios. Low range 14.10 in first, 8.20 in second, 4.65 in third, 2.72 in fourth, and 1.64 in fifth. High range as follows 8.59 in first, 4.99 in second, 2.84 in third, 1.66 in fourth, and 1.00 in fifth. And the following ratios in reverse. 36.66 in first, 21.32 in second, 12.11 in third, 7.07 in fourth, and 4.27 in fifth. The second was part number TRXL 1071 The gear ratios in low range are as follows 23.08 in first, 13.42 in second, 7.62 in third, 4.45 in fourth, and 2.69 in fifth. The gear ratios in high range and reverse were the same in both transmissions. There were also air shift verisions of both transmissions part numbers TRXL 107A and TRXL 1071A. Hope this helps out Blocl" looks like the quad with 4.17 rears in 1st LO LO would crawl at 3-4MPH at full throttle? a 6 speed in LOW LOW 1st is 3-4 mph also. At that point I would be more concerned at the stress the trans would see in that gear with the maxidyne. Ok I did my part. we need solid numbers to move forward... Who is good at math LOL!!! Trent

thats a very nice Truck. looks better IMO also..I sure hope it works out better for you. post up some pics after you get it home. Trent

his only saving grace is that he has a maxidyne to pull the now faster low gears. I think even at 10 tons he may be safe in the LO LO range of a quad even in slight off road conditions. We need to figure out what a 5/6 speeds first gear is with 4.17s and compair it to his first gear with a quad and 4.17. I dont have ratios handy to compare

45MPH at 2100RPM with 22.5 tires of a 42" dia with a final trans OD of .73 33MPH with a direct drive is this a gas engine? if it is @2500RPM with .73OD you have around 54MPH

I havent heard of a factory mack truck built with a mack trans behind an off breed engine but I guess it could be true? i would think you need to use most of the 12 forward gears to keep the cat in its power band?

you will be fine if you drive it the right way. if the quad is double overdrive you will have a geared top speed of around 100MPH tho LOL

The Trucks have a singel LED under the cab and have Fiber optics to the head lights and cab roof. The Trailes have 2 Leds one for red and the otherfor amber. The mixers have the led hidden under the drum. all have to be hard wired. I have about 5 R model Mixers, 3 R model with doubles and a few with 40' trailers that I will be listing soon. If anyone is intrested drop me an email and I will sell direct. I also model in HO scale also. I have a small layout at home and belong to this club http://www.emrrc.org/ Its one of the largest in the Chicago aera. Some of us will run 100+ car trains without any trouble of holding up the other members on the layout. its basicly a 2 train mainline with a few spots of single track. I do alot of scenery work over the winter months when things slow down. Heres a few vids of the trains I run down there. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IA28-zblCm8&feature=related http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vqBgNLUQQBQ Guess my secret is out now...Im a train dork also LOL Trent