Lmackattack

that looks like "Sals" (look at the sticker on the door) Did he get a new one or change something on his old one? I think it looks sleak.. i would keep the dog on the hood but thats just me.. i give credit to anyone that can keep an old truck on the road and make money with it...

I like the macks for the off road but not everone is a mack fan. I agree that one of the down sides of the older macks was that they did not offer off breed "standard power" as a more common alternative options. I think that a good running 300 mack is just fine for the city but pull hills all day and that 500 cat looks alot better. the only down side I see with off breed power is that they all had higher operation costs and they were not as easy to work on as the old ENDT675-676 /E6 etc... I have only driven one mack that had an off breed motor and I like it. It was a 350 big cam cummins. it would run away from all the 300 macks in the hills but could not out pull from them stop lights with all the shifting going on.

were in odds in ends. this is the section to rant, rave, laugh, and cry... here is my out look that was posted on a diffrent message board put a bird feeded out in the yard and watch all the birds come eat for free, you feel good that you helped them out. a few weeks later the words out around "the Hood" and they all come and fight for the free food. next thing you know dead birds are around and they start to shit everwhere.. so you take the bird feeder away and they dont come around. alls well again.. too simple for the goverment to understand...

HA HA!!!! hell I cant even get in it that easy

HA HA!!!! hell I cant even get in it that easy

the dealers lot is still the only place to find them around here....

THAT WILL MAKE LIFE EASY !

now I might need an OD trans or some 3.87 gears?

I think the ETZ engines were for speced for trucks bought and owned in CA. the reason was likely for the heavy CA emission regulations? anyone recall this?? I dont know what was diffrent but im going to assume the emission control devices. as far as the more common engine codes..ENDT675 EN= engine D=diesel T=turbo charged 675=maxidybe I think yours was just built to a CA emission spec???

Rob remeber this? was looking thru some I.C. Railroad pictures and saw a few from Bloomington IL after a 1977 snow storm.

normal for a cold engine to smoke on cold start in the colder months. Need to know how hot it really was. transmissions can reach 180 deg on hard long pulls. all depends if it has a cooler or not. lots of friction in those meshing gears. did you check the oil level?

Thats a good one Rob... I wish my genaration would teach there kids to do the same out on the streets. Im ok if they stay in the house but step outside to flaunt and your fair game. my opinion and thats my warning also!

I dont know many companys right now that would consider buying a $100,000 tractor let alone one priced at $150,000. right now you can find plenty of $50,000 trucks that are just a few years old and can do the same job for 100k less. I think Mack needs to reconsider the price and take a gambel that they can sell more titans for less rather than less for more...

ok i will chime in also after you wait getting into the site you find everthing is not layed out very well. Click on Highway and you see 2 day cab tractors pulling lowboys? I thought thats on/offroad? Click on Heavy haul and you see a pic of a truck that is focused on the bumper, It gives you no info about them or specs on macks "Big dog" Click on Construction and again you git a pic of a front bumper and a Concrete pumper? Whers the side shot of a Mixer, or End dump, Altho sales of Concret pumpers are popular they are more considered a specialty unit? then you Click on Garbage and its understandable what Volvo thinks of Mack. you can clearly see all the junk trucks clearly labled and what they are used for Bravo Volvo Bravo

if you put antique tags and insureance on it it will be covered so long as you do not use it for hire. the issue is that those tags are for Shop or show only.. there is a fine line and most cops will not not care if its your dirt in the bed or not and they may give you a hard time just for haveing a load on it thats not related to antique equipment. just be ready to go to court when they catch you hauling a load of Dirt with it. when you get to court just tell the judge its "old" dirt se if he laughs?

that trans could have had 2 diffrent PTOs. the Mack PTO was installed thru one of the 3 countershafts. this allowd the main to be in N and the box still would go up with the aux in gear. The pump runs off the engine RPM the other style PTO was side mounted and IIRC you could use 1-5 main gears to control the PTO speed. the gate could be air operated or manual and the swith is normaly close to the PTO switch/ those 6 speeds are considered outdated by alot of new drivers that think every truck needs an 18 speed. The nice thing with the 6 speed is you wont be shifting gears all day between stop lights. IMO the maxidyne is one of the best engines for offroad work. you get a wide RPM range for each gear and they love to lug thru the mud.

the stick on the Right (aux) is basicly just used when your stoped on a steep grade or in some real thick mud and need a low gear to get started out. some people will use low with 1-2-3 on the main then shift into Direct. If your pulling a hill just stay in Direct. If you stop on that hill. put the aux into LOW and then 1st on the main untill the ground levels out and you can make the shift back to direct. and in case you did not know you also have 5 reverse gears

I will admit that I had to use 4th gear reverse to get to a spot in a field to get a load off. hard ground, slight incline, slick and wet in the rain. was a semi truck and the added drag from the trailer would stop the truck unless you had some wheel speed to keep it going. Boss was there and approved of the tactics. Sent his Peterbilts home that day and kept all the 6 speeds working. but I dont think I would try that in the sand with the axels bouncing!

If I read your first post correctly it sounds like the power divider was working fine? are you sure the switch is for a power divider or is it a diff lock? If the power divider was in for a long time you should have noticed that it might be lugging down in tighter turns. most noticeable on pavment. and yes if it was engaged it will be harder on the drive line as in a tight turn the forward tandem axel will move at a diffrent speed then the rear tandem. At least one wheel would have to slip across the ground to keep moving in a turn. For an example of how it would feel if it was locked in on dry pavement with a load on.. in a tight turn (1st gear) you likely would not get to 2nd gear becasue the truck would louse to much speed because of the friction and stress on the drive line.. but again it all depends how your diffs are set up.

If you had one wheel on the forward axel off the ground and one wheel of the rear axel off the ground you are stuck... with the power divider in or out.. your stuck (most of the times) . as said before the power divider just sends power to both axels. a power divider does not lock in the diffs to send power to both side of an axel. you need a diff lock to get the power equal across the axel. the automatic power divider locks in when it detects a diffrence in drive line speed. tha manual has to be operated with a switch. a diff lock will send power to both sides of the axel if so equipped. I think most trucks with a diff lock only have it on one axel this means that even with a diff lock you will only have 3 powered wheels if the truck weight on the rears is badly unbalanced. I know its a PITA to under stand on a message board LOL!!! the old trick with macks power divider when stuck was to tap/stab the brake pedal to stop the free spinning wheel and try to transfer the power to the other side. works sometimes but if your stuck bad your done Trent

Good luck tomorrow but remember once you start backing up and getting in/out just fine they will decide your truck will go where the others cant. then every time they see you coming you get to dump "over there" ie the soft spots LOL!!!!

HA HA!!! I feel your pain. they have a tracked machine stoping everyone in the mud. Go figure. Sounds like some of the guys near me. I never could understand why those operators stop a truck to have it move 10 feet to the left or right. Get in, get out, and be gone! why make it harder then it really is?

Can someone point me in the right direction here. Im thinking this might be able to be a Sticky when were done if we can get some good advice on what our old macks need when converting them over to spring brakes. I have done nothing more than simple air brake repairs and maintence before so alot of this is news to me I have a basic under standing how air brakes work but have little clue how the specific relay/valves get plumbed into the trucks system. The compressor,air tanks,Dryer,chambers are a no brainer but the tractor protection valve,treadle, relays, bob tail valve,quick release valve, check valve locations are confusing to follow as they all seam to intersect at some point. My under standing is that if there is 2 seaprate systems (service and Parking) then they should stay seaprate!!! but that looks like its not true? What im looking for is guidance to what these old trucks need to be plumbed correctly. I see on the bendix site that you have all sorts of options. I just want a simple set up that works and is easy to follow. My B model has no steer axel brakes but has spring brake /service chambers on the forward Rear tandem and service only on the Rear rear tandem. what im looking for is simplicity a treadle that only supplys to the rear of the truck and trailer axels dash valve that is simple like the bendix CV3 (yellow and red only) relay and quick release that stop the truck or park it. SIMPLICITY!!!! any help is great and start where you want? thanks Trent

last time I split some double rails we placed one end of the channels up aganst a tree and then used a bob cat to force long round blocks of wood inbetween. it took a few tries but at the halfway point they seaparated. I woudent use heat as they are likely just pinched from rust and the heat wont do much unless the rust works its way out.. I know you should not weld on frame rails but not sure if heating them is just as bad. i suspect it is not a good idea???? Trent

they can be a pita to split if the rust is bad. When the rails rust the inner rail tends to spread and pinch the outer rail. lots of prying to get it out sometimes, use a wedge and hammer it down the rail adding blocks behind it. hopefully once it starts coming out it will get easy. Trent