AZB755V8

It got relisted, That is one tiered Dog. I don't throw the towel in at many things but it looks like the fight is out of that Superliner. Only thing maybe worth anything is the engine... maybe. Think it is scrapper bound.

There has been a Superliner for sale at Joseph Eq for some time now, it is white and looks OK. It was Cat powered and does not have an engine.Google them for a phone number and photos on their site

The MH is just a play truck now, not a money maker. The HT754CR has around a 3.8 first gear not a 7.2 or so as in the deep reduction as you are talking about. Torque capacity is basically the same at 1450 ft/lbs for all the HT700 series. That Bandag drag truck had a 2500hp E9 with a HT700 trans and it did OK with no load and just drag racing. The MH should be OK for just bobtailing and an occasional trailer on it. If not the 18 speed will go back in.

Well you are close to being 100% correct. Mack did do 5 Superliner tractors with E9's for the military to move aircraft. Wish I could find one now... The same Mack engineer that did the 5 military E9 Allison's did the Australian Bandag drag truck, he did the 2500hp engine in that truck as well. Super nice guy but as I said has forgotten most of what was done so long ago. I can say that all the parts were custom made by or for Mack but the blue prints have been long gone. He did give me a few pointers and wished me good luck, saying it can be done. It would be great if I could get any of that Allison info from you!!

I have looked into doing an Allison for a 1985 MH with an E9-V8. The big issue is to get the trans to bolt up to the engine. The bellhousing that you have should work as it is a SAE #1 or something of that sort. From what I know most trans have the same housing diameter and flange, but I am no expert. There is a 13/16 inch spacer available to set back the trans. As for flex-plates there are several different ways to get the starter gear and torque converter to bolt up, maybe gear on torque converter. I have no choice but to make a custom steel "flexplate/flywheel" as the E9 is counterbalanced in the flywheel. Still working on that. The rear of the trans does need supported like in the previous illustration and not solid mounted. Trans I am going with is a HT754CR, 5 speed without deep reduction. What is going to make this all work is a cable shifted trans, no electronics. My truck does not have any electronics and the early Allison's were cable shifted before they had the brain. Actual RPM shift points are set in the valve body with spring pressures, that is old school as well and having someone do that setting is hard to find these days. As for help from Mack there really is no one there that could tell you much about older "Mack" trucks as they are focused on new Volvo stuff, just plain forgot or retired. Retrofitting is going to be all on the guy (you) that wants it bad enough to figure it out to make it work. Torque capacity for that HT750 is 1450 ft/lbs but can do that load all day long, is that matched to your engine torque rating? I am just playing with this E9 and will never be fully loaded.

I do like your color selection a lot. Great looking cab body and paint! I did my B in a similar color in 2013 and have nothing but complements on it since. What color is the frame going to be?

OK. Have to dig the steering box out this weekend. I will PM you from here.

I did see the Eaton website on the torque rating for that trans. That seems incredibly high capacity compared to anything else they offer but they would know. I do have 1880 universals back to the first rear then 1810 between Rockwell rears on my Superliner. I don't think mine came that way but was beefed up for heavy pulling. I don't think the 1880 parts are that common or at lease any more. Saw one CL713 with that big of driveline once doing Texas oil field work.

Well introductions are in order for a virgin here. Welcome to the forum by the way, before you get started by just jumping in. Until more is known... The cheapest fastest way to more power is: 1) Sell your current Mack truck 2) Buy another Mack with a bigger or more powerful engine and maybe a few more gears. 3) Cheapest Fastest way without knowing more of what you are talking about.👍

I don't think that a 1710 yoke will work with a 1810 yoke in the first place. The across cap dimension are 6.094 and 7.547 respectfully. An 1880 is 8.094 across. Get the 1880 on one end and a 1710 on the other end of each driveshaft would work. Doing so would just have a much lower torque rating for the 1710 u-joints. Maybe the Aux Trans has a lower torque capacity as well.

Welcome to the forum! Wow I lived in Mentor for 41 years across from the High School then in Az since. There should be someone here that can help with parts. I think those head lights are similar to the ones on an LT. If you cant find original SoCal Speed Shop has a real nice chrome pair for use on roadsters that are real close and reasonable priced. By the way next time list your parts wanted in the "Parts Wanted" section.👍

The nozzle is the tip portion of the injector body. All injectors have nozzles it does not matter how makes them. You can not just replace the nozzles on the injector body at your work bench. This must be done at a fuel injection shop to get the proper opening pressure and check for spray pattern with new or used parts. If you get the whole injector with nozzles to replace the ones in your engine that would be a lot of money that you do not need to spend. If you just want new nozzles then tell the shop replace then even if they are not bad. That may take time to get them ordered in. Southwest Injection in Phoenix is who I use and they had my injectors cleaned, pattern checked and opening pressure set, back to me the next day. It can't get any faster than that. If your shop takes a week you might tell then to put a RUSH on on it and pay a little more for the RUSH service. Columbus Diesel is a good shop, in Columbus Ohio that I would recommend, talk to Dan there.

The O-rings are the issue, replace them, it is an EZ fix, get the O-rings from a Bosch injection shop. Take the injectors to a Bosch injection shop and have them cleaned and have the opening pressure checked and brought back to factory spec. The opening pressure does change over time and a different shim under the injector spring is all it takes to get it right and setting it with the proper equipment. Let the pump shop tell you if the nozzles need replaced they will check the spray pattern when they are cleaned.

Well all the coolant heaters I have ever used are 110 volt and plug into house or shop current. The heater is an element like used in electric water heater. If you ever noticed the chrome plug on a truck that looks like a trailer connect plug, by the grill or drivers door, it is where the extension cord plugs the heater power into. Go to "engine block heater" on Ebay and look at them and buy on.👍

I was looking back about 15 years ago for one. The only way even back then was to find a transmission with the twin disc clutch input shaft. There is a different bellhousing for the twin disc as well. Not the same as a single disc clutch. Don't know your setup but South Bend Clutch can beef up the springs and use ceramic pucks for better torque capacity for ether clutch.

There is one that looks like that around Twin Arrows Arizona. It can be seen from the 40 to the north. Think it belongs to pawn shop there, it has something painted on. Long shot...

Yes on two O-rings and washer. Some injectors only have two O-ring grooves. I am just putting injectors back in from the pump shop. Newer ones have 2 groove from Turkey, Older ones have 3 grooves from Bosch. This engine was missing and had low RPM idle, one injector was bad out of the 8, it was the one with fuel on top of injector and under the cap... that should solve my issue. Newer injectors have military nozzles, but so did the old ones!! 👍 It's a big bad runnin Puppy.

Thanks for the information on the O-rings. It is more than likely the problem and the least expensive to fix. 👍

I have had fuel on top of the injectors when removing the caps but not enough to get by the treads or raise the oil level. The reason I did it was there was a miss in the engine. In my case it was a bad injector. I need to learn as well here. If the O-rings were bad the only way the fuel would get into the oil would be coming up through the hold down cap treads. The only way that would happen is if there was back pressure in the return lines. Is that correct? Just asking but 3-5 gallon of fuel is a lot to get past something, be it B&P's or O-rings. That is low pressure side of the system. To check the O-rings it would be EZ to put air pressure through the return line and check for bubbles at the caps after valve covers are removed with a little spray of soap.

The issue is fuel getting into the oil not "bypassing oil into the fuel somehow". The injection pump has worn barrels and plungers. They actually put the fuel pressure to the injectors at 4000 psi. You are not going to find a leak with 45 psi of air. The B&P seal with metal to metal and very tight clearance between the two parts. So tight that fuel can not get passed until the parts wear and clearance opens up and leak fuel passed into the oil in the pump which drains back into the engine oil pan. You need a injection pump rebuild or find a good used pump. The charge pump is not the problem. Change the engine oil ASAP, bearing will be going out with that much fuel contamination. By the way WELCOME to BMT!!

There is NO right or wrong here Guys. The fact is that the E9 was a good engine. It did have problems just like any engine. I recently have been talking to Steve Trevitz about my E9 that he personally spec 1500 hp at the flywheel, I have since turned it down a few hundred HP. Yes I have dropped a valve seat... on a Reman head with 18K miles on it. It is known that the press fit on the seats needs to be on the tight side of spec or more. The biggest issue with the E9 was when increasing HP not everything was modified to do so and with operator error bad things happen. This is directly from the MACK engineers mouth... Steve was the E9 engineer from the start of the E9 to the end of the E9 at MACK. Steve is a MACK engineer and still works for MACK... oops... VOLVO now. He was the design engineer of the 4 valve head that turned the 866 plus some cubic inches into the E9 and its variants. I have ask him for some photos and information of the creations that MACK was involved with, there are many. Most of these included multiple turbos, bigger injectors and 13mm pumps. Marine, over the road and military were the main uses. Prototype rated at 360hp, production Rated at 400hp@1800rpm to 900hp@2600rpm with reliability and continuos use in mind right from MACK. I may get info on these engines some day but Steve is to sick to even dig that out at this time, 20 years after production stopped in the USA. No not ill but the engine had so much potential and was abandoned by VOLVO (me saying that not Steve) to promote their 16L engine. With power abound just like the 350 Chevy that started at 170hp and now over 650 hp today from Chevy, well over 1200hp race. If all engineered correctly it is no problem to tune engines up if needed. The fact is that correct information or really any information was not released from MACK to do so. Just to put it to rest the engineering and information was there.... at MACK. On a clutch's, I got a 4400lb LIPE in the Superliner, works great, just a workout to push. I thought it was a beefed up stock clutch with ceramic pads not special. It is cast iron and is NOT a competition unit by todays standards. No cast flywheels or pressure plates in anything but street class pulling now. A multi plate slipper clutch is the way to go for big torque capacity, ask Back in Black, think he has had one for several years now. Dale Frances can get one together with billet flywheel for an E9, $$$

Mack T2100's are defiantly not a fast shifting thing. I like an 18 spd myself because it can be shifted several different ways, 8,12 or 16 depending on the load plus the low hole that is rarely used making 9, 13 or 18 spds. Start skipping or not splitting gears and it seems like forever for the engine to wind down and go into the next gear. You want a throw into gear trans and easier to shift an Eaton is the way to go.

Matt did this truck. It took me 16 years to get all really good parts to put it together. There are 6 donor truck in to this B755. I did not have the time to put it all together and Matt had it for two years if I recall right. 2013 Gerharts was the first time I saw it complete myself. I did a short punch list of "to does" and it was shipped out to Arizona. I have done or am doing the restorations on other trucks myself. Frame from California, Borden Dairy, B773 Engine from Ohio, Kuhnle Brothers Tank Lines, R795 Quadraplex duel plate clutch Transmission fron New Jersey, R719 Cab, hood & radiator, Rears 6.34, from Texas drilling company, B75 4.17 carriers from Ohio, 1967, R719 All mounts and brackets from PA, B755 New fenders, doors, interior & glass from Mack, NOS a lot of little stuff from Tidewater Mack, back in the day. Wheels from Georgia, Ford 1980 vintage. Reworked for stud pilot mounting.

Both of these B-755 are 1965's, wonder how close the serial numbers are between them. Both B & L cabs in B-7xx series were available to end of production in 1966. When I choose the color for the truck the painter really did not want to paint it. He had never used that color on a truck. It tuned out nice and everyone that comments on the color likes it as well, including the painter after it was done. When I got the truck cab from a drilling company out of Texas it was a darker shade of a similar color. Thanks for liking it to.

Nice looking black B, got the cab and hood for mine out of Texas as well, look like what is on the plate. There are more than a few B-755's still around. There was a number of differences from a B-75, mostly to do with raising the cab to fit the engine. Most do not have the original 864 in them anymore. OEM B-755 had the NA 864/255hp. It was Mack's first attempt at bigger HP but the engine was plagued with problems. Then came the twin turbo 864/305hp in 1967 in the R Model. The injection pump was a nightmare! I had a running 864/255 for my B-755 but choose to go with a 866/375hp when it was restored. Most of the bad problems were worked out in the 866 except for constantly cracking cylinder heads.